OzFab
Well-known member
All has been explained (bigger disc, reroute cable, bleed system), I was just cluing in nodroz
I finished my go kart!! But with a few problems...
- Thread starter wblupton
- Start date
- Status
I have a question. It is hard to see in that picture, but are the pads fully biting the rotor? It almost looks like it is angled up away from the rotor on the bottom side. I had the same problem with a set of mechanical brakes I put on my kart, and once I fixed it I can lock up a set of 18 inch tires no problem.
jamyers
Well-known member
Dude. You NEED to bleed them and get the air out of there.
Yeah, sorry i took the picture from my iphone, but they are biting the whole rotor.
I will. I've just never done it before, and don't know how. How can I figure it out? Any threads or videos? It would help.
jamyers
Well-known member
Basically, it's a repetitive drill where you push on the pedal to pressurize the brakes, then (still pushing pedal) you open up the bleeder valve on the caliper to let the air / fluid out. The pedal will go down, which is fine - just don't let it up until the bleeder valve is closed. Close the bleeder valve, let the pedal up, and repeat. Check the fluid often, you DON'T want to let it get low enough to introduce more air into the system. Repeat until you get a nice, firm pedal - instead of a spongy one which means air is still in there.
You WILL make a mess, when you open the bleeder screw brake fluid is going to shoot out. Be careful, brake fluid eats paint.
You WILL make a mess, when you open the bleeder screw brake fluid is going to shoot out. Be careful, brake fluid eats paint.
Nodroz
New member
Basically, it's a repetitive drill where you push on the pedal to pressurize the brakes, then (still pushing pedal) you open up the bleeder valve on the caliper to let the air / fluid out. The pedal will go down, which is fine - just don't let it up until the bleeder valve is closed. Close the bleeder valve, let the pedal up, and repeat. Check the fluid often, you DON'T want to let it get low enough to introduce more air into the system. Repeat until you get a nice, firm pedal - instead of a spongy one which means air is still in there.
You WILL make a mess, when you open the bleeder screw brake fluid is going to shoot out. Be careful, brake fluid eats paint.
Exactly! If you follow his guide succesfully it should be better! Try this first before getting a new rotor.
Goodluck!
What's my brake problem? Should I bleed?
Ok so... Not too long ago I showed you guys my "finished" go kart but as you know it came with two primary problems: the brake and the chain. I resolved the chain slipping problem and it's good to go
but the brake is still an issue. I remember receiving some suggestions from you guys last time, saying I should bleed it or get a bigger brake rotor. First of all, I've never bled brakes before and don't know how 
(any threads or videos?). Second, I know the small brake rotor isn't helping, but is it the real problem here? I feel like it's something else. I still don't know what the problem is... Any ideas?
I can post pictures if needed. They're also on my last thread
Ok so... Not too long ago I showed you guys my "finished" go kart but as you know it came with two primary problems: the brake and the chain. I resolved the chain slipping problem and it's good to go
but the brake is still an issue. I remember receiving some suggestions from you guys last time, saying I should bleed it or get a bigger brake rotor. First of all, I've never bled brakes before and don't know how (any threads or videos?). Second, I know the small brake rotor isn't helping, but is it the real problem here? I feel like it's something else. I still don't know what the problem is... Any ideas? I can post pictures if needed. They're also on my last thread
Doc Sprocket
*********
A YouTube search will reveal brake-bleeding how-to's, although Jammy covered it well. Try that first before doing anything else.
FYI- I merged this into your other thread as it was not a new topic, and the old one wasn't yet moldy...
FYI- I merged this into your other thread as it was not a new topic, and the old one wasn't yet moldy...
Ok so... Not too long ago I showed you guys my "finished" go kart but as you know it came with two primary problems: the brake and the chain. I resolved the chain slipping problem and it's good to go
I can post pictures if needed. They're also on my last thread
Here are some brake bleeding threads
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7895&highlight=bleed+brakes
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=11046&highlight=bleed+brakes
My brake problem
Well I finally got a chance to bleed the brakes and they were working fine in the first place (in a sense). i think they still worked before I bled them. As you can see in the picture below they were still squeezing on the rotor very well before because the brake pads were squeezing hard enough to wear out the rotor fairly well. I have no idea what else it could be except if the rotor's size is the culprit. what do you think?
Well I finally got a chance to bleed the brakes and they were working fine in the first place (in a sense)
. i think they still worked before I bled them. As you can see in the picture below they were still squeezing on the rotor very well before because the brake pads were squeezing hard enough to wear out the rotor fairly well. I have no idea what else it could be except if the rotor's size is the culprit. what do you think?Attachments
-
photo (1).JPG
Doc Sprocket
*********
Before reconfiguring things for a larger rotor, let's examine leverage. Have a look at the bellcrank that connects your cable to your master cylinder. You know the piece- the cable pulls one end of the arm, and the other pushes the master. Try drilling a new hole in that lever, closer to the master cylinder end of it. Drill a new hole in the frame to re-mount the pivot bolt, so it all ends up back in the same position. The result? Your pedal will travel further, your foot will have more mechanical advantage (leverage).
Also, ensure that there's no binding in the cable. Avoid sharp corners, and make sure everything is well-lubricated.
Also, ensure that there's no binding in the cable. Avoid sharp corners, and make sure everything is well-lubricated.
AnOTHER problem...
Also, my torque converter hasn't been engaging lately. i'm not sure if the belt is burnt through of what but when I first start the engine,the driver's discs come together like it's getting into a high gear, but when that happens I have no power. When I rev it up the other part of the torque converter spreads. It's like the whole thing is working in reverse. I would show you guys a video but I couldnt attach the file on here.
Also, my torque converter hasn't been engaging lately. i'm not sure if the belt is burnt through of what but when I first start the engine,the driver's discs come together like it's getting into a high gear, but when that happens I have no power. When I rev it up the other part of the torque converter spreads. It's like the whole thing is working in reverse. I would show you guys a video but I couldnt attach the file on here.
Doc Sprocket
*********
If you have a YouTube (or similar host), just post the link here.
Yeah deffenantly need to bleed your brakes. Let me guess, when you hit your brake pedal it feels squishy, like it not really solid? If so the you deffanantly need to bleed them, if you hit the brakes and you can feel it reach it's max and stop but the kart doesn't slow well then it's your disk but I think your disk is plenty big
Alright I upload the videos to youtube if you want to see the problems with my torque converter. I got a new belt and still have been having the problem. It seems like the driver on the engine is engaging way too early and is locking in as if in a high gear. I apologize for the bad video quality, i was in a hurry so i got it with my iphone. Here are the links.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6O8x6vjC-i4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wTlfqrmZNJA
Let me know if you cant see anything.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6O8x6vjC-i4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wTlfqrmZNJA
Let me know if you cant see anything.
jamyers
Well-known member
Cant tell on my phone, but If that's a 40series CVT, the driven unit is on backwards. If its a 30 series, the cams are on the wrong side of the ramps.
Doc Sprocket
*********
I can tell this much- it's a 30 series belt (you can clearly see the orientation indicators), and the driven appears to have a nearly flat sheave (also pointing to a 30). So, (assuming the driver is also 30), then I must agree that the driven is assembled wrong/broken.
- Status