Hydraulic Brakes

[$jay]

Can someone give me advice on why this wilwood brake system won't stop my kart. I've bleed all the air out. Don't know if maybe the line is too long, or pads are junk or what.

 

[Brianator]

The length of that line should not affect it. Does the pedal feel firm or spongy? Maybe you got some oil or brake fluid on it? Clean/scuff/clean the rotor and pads and see what happens. Brakes generally need to "bed in" also before they'll work their best. The only other thing I can think of is if the motor is still trying to push the cart? It all looks brand new so i dont see why it shouldn't work

 

[Brisketends]

Just keep pumping it! Also, just make sure you have full range of piston collapse on the master cylinder. Everything looks fine from the pictures. Clean the rotor with some brake cleaner and scotch Brite to roughen up the clamping surface. Good luck buddy. Kart looks nice!

 

[mckutzy]

IS that a floating caliper or disc???
That almost look like that is a 2 pot system and that would mean you need a Y or a crossover pipe for the fluid in both halves...

 

[$jay]

I reverse bleed these brakes because I was having trouble getting the air out. Pedal is solid now. These brakes aren't floaters. Wilwood claims they have a spring load system inside to release the pads. They do not drag. I never thought about running another line over to the bleeder screw. But then where do I install the bleeder? What you see in the pics is how they came. After I got these I was wondering why there was only one bleeder on the opposite side of the brake line.

 

[mckutzy]

Bizarre... I tried to look up these, couldnt find an instruction manual for this type...

Maybe they have an internal crossover...Im not sure..

The more kart experts will have to chime in on this one..

 

[Brisketends]

Is that rotor keyed? Looks like you have an Allen bolt holding it to the shaft but the shaft is keyed. Rotor spinning?

 

[mckutzy]

Ya.. that hub isn't engaged with a key to the shaft...

 

[$jay]

Its keyed. What you see in that pic is not the slot but the key sticking up. I looked at the pic to and went out to the garage to see if I did lose it... lol. Almost wish that was the case.... would be embarrassing but an easy fix.. Haha

 

[Kartorbust]

Slight possibility the master cylinder is the wrong bore size for the caliper. Though symptoms of that would usually be a very stiff pedal. I would keep bleeding it to make sure. Wish you could just pull the caliper off the rotor and see if it does close and open, but that could cause issue.

 

[Karttekk]

Put the rear of the kart up on stands and work the brakes. Does the rotor stop normally? I don't think you're supposed to pump the brakes to bleed them. See if you can apply the method in this video to your kart somehow.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sU9nDpAmqp8

 

[Brianator]

Why not just gravity bleed? Put a pan under it, open the bleeder and carry on with something else, as long as you keep the master topped up so no air gets in it will work itself out.

 

[$jay]

Okay so let me ask this question. Is anyone familiar with the dual line MCP brakes? Im thinking that would be a better system and just chalk this up to experience.

 

[anderkart]

Did your rotor come with your caliper in a kit?

If not, I was thinking your caliper might be designed for a vented rotor that's a lot thicker; and this might be resulting in your caliper reaching its max limit of travel before the pads can apply sufficient braking force.

I know some racekart calipers require shims installed between the piston and backing plate of the pad to help compensate for rotor thickness & pad wear...

 

[Kartorbust]

It appears to be an SC1 Wilwood caliper, which takes up to a 9" diameter rotor at 1/4" thickness.

 

[Bansil]

Dang that was a heck of a brake setup in the video

I guess 100 mph does that