Hydraulic Brake Issues

[Econdron]

Making a modified Grand Daddy project, it's nearly complete but I'm having a lot of troubles getting the brakes to work. This is the brake kit I'm using:

1" or 1 1/4" Hydraulic Brake Kit - Red | 600505R or 600510R | BMI Karts And Parts

I attached some pictures of the setup. I had it done as just a crude setup for now, I'll clean up everything once I get it all running properly. My issue is that the brakes feel VERY soft. You can easily bottom out the brake pedal and you get very minimal braking performance. I bled both lines for a long time, multiple times, with different methods without any improvement. I even purchased the bleeder kit thinking it would help: Brake Bleeder Kit | 600606 | MCP 912 | BMI Karts And Parts

I followed their directions listed here: https://www.mcpbrake.com/brakebleeding.html

I found some other ideas and suggestions online for different methods of bleeding and I haven't gotten any improvement, regardless of the bleeding procedure.

Is there something obvious I am missing? I'm using DOT 5 fluid and I'm using Hydraulic lines.

My build is longer than most applications, so I'm wondering if maybe the length of the setup causes the system to lose power? I'm hoping you guys can spot an obvious issue, or provide a recommendation.

 

[Master Hack]

I can't tell from the pic, but is the bleeder on the caliper at the bottom? The bleeder needs to be at the high point or ya never will get the air out.

 

[nobled2]

I can't tell from the pic, but is the bleeder on the caliper at the bottom? The bleeder needs to be at the high point or ya never will get the air out.

Two bleeders that both look to be above the lines but can't tell if they are at the high point or not. Could he have not bled them both??

 

[Denny]

That rotor looks kinda small in diameter. Too much leverage is lost.

 

[Econdron]

Two bleeders that both look to be above the lines but can't tell if they are at the high point or not. Could he have not bled them both??

Both were bled, but is the caliper supposed to be angled so that the bleeders are at the highest point?

That rotor looks kinda small in diameter. Too much leverage is lost.

I thought about that as well, but my biggest reason for thinking something is wrong is that the brake pedal bottoms out pretty easily. More leverage might help, but there's still something wrong. Like if someone is pressing down the brake pedal all the way, someone else can push the kart (with a decent amount of effort) and the wheels will still spin before they slip.

 

[Master Hack]

e caliper supposed to be angled so that the bleeders are at the highest point?

yes.

If that's not the way it is then its installed wrong.
There have been instances where I have taken the caliper off turned so the bleeder is up, put a piece of wood in where the rotor goes, bled it, and reinstalled it. Temporary fix, til next next time.
Happens all the time with cars and mechanics (kids) that don't know what they are doing. Calipers in cars are position specific, to keep the bleeders up. Reverse 'em and the bleeders are down. The inexperienced may or may not know this.
It may not be that way any longer, last time I worked on a car/truck was when they were steam powered.

 

[Denny]

The bleeders should be the highest point of the caliper absolutely.
If you pedal leverage is greater than by a lot yes you can overpower the hydraulics. But I don’t think that is your problem. I still think the disc diameter is a problem also.

 

[Denny]

The bleeders should be the highest point of the caliper absolutely.
If you pedal leverage is greater than by a lot yes you can overpower the hydraulics. But I don’t think that is your problem. I still think the disc diameter is a problem also.

 

[Rat]

Dual bleed, dual piston (is a really crappy set up imho) needs to be bled together to keep the rotor and pad symetry in the center of the gap.

Bedding in new hardware matters more than most realize or understand.

I'd have someone stand on the brake pedal and check any and all soft lines for balloons especially near compression fittings