How to set idle on Greyhound

[Cstyle00]

Driver pulley engages while idling which makes cart roll forward, not safe. How do I lower the idle speed? Which screw is the idle screw, anyone have a pic. or a link? Thanks.

 

[DCProductions]

You could turn the idle screw to the left.
You could clean out the idle circuitry or just the carb in general.
You could remove the compression release on the cam shaft. (not really recommended)

The biggest factors of idle are carburetor cleanliness and proper compression, and I would focus on the carb.

Another way to stop the driver from engaging without messing with the idle is to purchase aftermarket driver springs. I'm assuming this is a comet/ comet style torque converter. Is this right?

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Do you have the correct belt for the pulley spacing?

 

[Cstyle00]

Lol, danm DC I just need to lower the idle, lol. Thanks though, the carb better be clean since I've only let it idle for about 4 hours. Now time to break it in right, which screw is the idle screw anyway, I'll see this weekend when I get a chance to work on it.

Yea toy I have the right belt but if I see the driver closing while its idling then that tells me the idle is too high, right? New CVT driver and driven 40 driver 44 driven. I think my pullies where out of line a little too, I'm going to put two or three washers against the shoulder of the crankshaft to line them up, about a quarter inch, that should be ok right?

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Look on the carb. The idle screw should be pretty obvious, as the one that has the throttle arm resting against the tip (not head) of the screw. Back this screw out to lower the idle. Please note that if your governor is intact, the throttle won't rest against it while the engine is off. On most clones that I have seen, the screw is black plastic.

 

[Russ2251]

I've only let it idle for about 4 hours.

Why would you do this?

 

[shake this]

If it's a new clone, you might find that the idle screw has a black cap. Once you remove the cap, you will see that it's just a standard philips head. They are tricky that way.

 

[Cstyle00]

Why would you do this?

Why Russ what's the problem? I reeved it from time to time so the pistons would seat nicely with Mobil 1, if I lost any power its probably a good thing, lol. I researched how to break in a motor and many arguments. Biggest thing is to change the oil soon the first run, 2nd is keep it under a load I heard but I already let it idle for a while before I read that post or site.

If it was a race engine and I was going to rebuild it after the race anyway then I would have broke it in hard but I hope it last for a while. But I have the extended warranty from Harbor Frieght for the next three years so I don't plan on it making it till then anyway.

 

[Russ2251]

Why Russ what's the problem?

I don't have a problem...I just asked.
Personally, I think any break-in period is a crock aside from changing oil.
Can't break in a generator or a log splitter that uses the identical engine. Most new push mowers do not have an adjustable throttle and run at 3600rpm right out of the box and remain at said rpm until they wear out...years down the road.
I apologize for the OTP.

 

[Cstyle00]

O it's cool, thanks for the scan too, where did it come from? I thought you were going to tell me I glazed my sleeves or something like that, thats what others had said, lol. Said I should have ran it full throttle and all, it all depends on the engine and what it being used for.

 

[slideways]

Typically the best way to break in a brand new motor is to run it at about 2000-2500rpm with a load against it for 25min or more mixing in a few full throttle bursts every now and then.
Idling a motor does not provide enough heat in the cylinder and like you said can glaze it. At idle a motor can get "washed down" as there is more fuel entering and the heat doesn't burn it off and the rings don't get hot enough to expand and seat into the bore.

When i dyno a brand new motor i run it for about 25min at 2500 with a load against it while doing 2 or 3 full throttle pulls. Then shut it down and let it cool to check fluids and do my baseline figures.

 

[Cstyle00]

So you're saying I harmed the motor or it's just still not really broken in? Does this glaze burn off?

 

[Bluethunder3320]

run the thing like normal. i let my clone idle for less than 5 minutes and then started to drive it.

still starts 1st pull every time. it has about 1-2 hours on it im guessing.

 

[Russ2251]

where did it come from?

From the manual...but I still think it's a crock.
Model airplane engines are a different story and only because tolerances are very much tighter than anything from China.

 

[Bluethunder3320]

From the manual...but I still think it's a crock.
Model airplane engines are a different story and only because tolerances are very much tighter than anything from China.

i know what you mean... i broke in 3 new nitro engines before.

they are totally different though. no piston rings, 2 stroke, glow plug ignition, 37,000+RPM.

during break in, i had to heat the cylinder of one 4.6cc in order to turn it over. otherwise, it was seised.

 

[Russ2251]

no piston rings

Known as ABC engines.
Aluminum piston, Brass cylinder, Chrome plated sleeve.
Good article regarding break-in for model engines HERE.

 

[slideways]

Yea you probably didn't hurt anything. Just run it hard and change the oil after 5 or 6hrs. You should see it a strange color.. sometimes silver/gray when it comes out.

 

[Cstyle00]

Yea, I've seen that before. I figured that was the machine oil they use when they cut the parts or the oil they put in it from the factory to keep anything from rusting. Probably a mix of both.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

I found traces of assembly lube it mine, so add that to the mix. I ran mine for all of about 3 mins before cracking it open...