Denny
Canned Monster
You’re king of late to game there Sparky. Those have been done here a few times. We’re into the Asian 300 superchargers on 212s now.
how to prevent oil starvation to head
- Thread starter SLM
- Start date
i actually have the supercharger figured out already lol, im gonna 3d print a centrifugal supercharger, nd i hv the elctronics nd motors for it already
what i also need is a way (and a compressor small enough) to mount a small compressor to run off the engine, the way to mount it to the engine is not really aproblem, its mostly the which compressor to use, i need something capable of making at least 100psi
Sparkwizard
Well-known member
Not 100 PSI from a centrifugal blower, right?
no no ofc not, im gonna be running an air comrpessor AND a small (preferably) compressor that goes up to at least 100
ezcome-ezgo
G'me sumthin to write on
100 PSI? That will be a significant drag/parasite on any small engine.
![IMG_1817[1].JPG](https://www.diygokarts.com/community/data/attachments/140/140307-8e45b7fef1c064f0b8484ff0841e96af.jpg "IMG_1817[1].JPG")
i did the math, in theory it should only take no more than 2hp, maybe 1 nd smthn, i dont need a lot of psi at low rpms, nd again, im not compressing the air with a blower or a procharger, imma be using an actual compressor so it wont be that much, if this works ill be making about 14 hp so 1 hp wont matter that much
Sparkwizard
Well-known member
Look at the angle of your oil dipper on the connecting rod and think about which direction it will throw the oil. Flathead engines with vertical cylinders had the dipper directly opposite the cylinder so they could splash the most oil. It looks like you would be "carving a slice" off the top of your oil. That is just my observation, and the reason why I never tried what you are proposing to do. You will throw oil away from the camshaft and the cylinder, I think....
Gasoline engines produce ZERO horsepower at idle, no matter how much boost they have at 9K.
Gasoline engines produce ZERO horsepower at idle, no matter how much boost they have at 9K.
and that is why i said that i DO NOT need 100psi throughout the whole rev band, only at the top
Sparkwizard
Well-known member
Hey! Now that I see the way you are leaning that engine, your oil dipper cannot and will not ever splash any oil unless you fill the block.
Your dipper will be pointed at the rear wheel (unless you mount the rod backward...which might actually work).
Your dipper will be pointed at the rear wheel (unless you mount the rod backward...which might actually work).
mounting the rod backwards wouldnt actually work since the dipper would now be facing the wrong direction
Denny
Canned Monster
You are overthinking this other people on here have mounted the engine the same way with no engine mods and they have been perfectly reliable. Just overfill the crankcase so the rod can dip it’s beak.
but nobody has gone as tilted back as i am going to, and besides, that would cause the crank to hit the oil and foam it, and no im not overthinking it, i think you just fail to see how any of this could result in my engine going RIP
Denny
Canned Monster
The crank will not hit the oil. If that were the case it would do it anyway because the dipper does not get shorter the more you tilt the engine. I have seen where the cylinder is completely vertical and they have been fine. The thing you need to worry about is how to get the oil to drain back out of the head. And even that’s not much of a problem. Like I said your over thinking it.
ur right, the dipper does not get shorter, but it DOES start to go more horizontal rather than (mostly) downward.
even thought it DOES touch the oil, in its "stock" angle the dipper should have dipped in at least 1" 1/2in, in this configuration it will dip in prob no more than 12 mm and because of the angle of the oil now it will spent most of those 12mm traveling sideways instead of upwards which is how it pulls oil in the dip
Another thing i wanna clear is that yes and no, the crank (i think you meant the rod) does touch the oil, but its onkly the dipper, and you may have noticed that the dipper is thin and is MADE TO be dipped without adding much drag, while the (actual) crank (not the rod) is NOT MADE to be dipped without adding drag.
Overall, i just wanna say, YES I CAN lubricate the engine enough to run, but since this engine is slightly modified i dont want to run the risk of underlubricating, it does not have a governor so with the added rpm i dont wanna risk it.
like i said, in the end, i think ill just end up cutting the frame nd hv someone weld me smthn
either way thanks for the replies nd the help, Denny, i actually didnt think of how to get the oil out the head so thanks for the tip
even thought it DOES touch the oil, in its "stock" angle the dipper should have dipped in at least 1" 1/2in, in this configuration it will dip in prob no more than 12 mm and because of the angle of the oil now it will spent most of those 12mm traveling sideways instead of upwards which is how it pulls oil in the dip
Another thing i wanna clear is that yes and no, the crank (i think you meant the rod) does touch the oil, but its onkly the dipper, and you may have noticed that the dipper is thin and is MADE TO be dipped without adding much drag, while the (actual) crank (not the rod) is NOT MADE to be dipped without adding drag.
Overall, i just wanna say, YES I CAN lubricate the engine enough to run, but since this engine is slightly modified i dont want to run the risk of underlubricating, it does not have a governor so with the added rpm i dont wanna risk it.
like i said, in the end, i think ill just end up cutting the frame nd hv someone weld me smthn
either way thanks for the replies nd the help, Denny, i actually didnt think of how to get the oil out the head so thanks for the tip
Sparkwizard
Well-known member
Just to clarify my remark about the crank splashing oil, I meant the counterweights would hit the oil if the level was deep enough.
true but the counterweights are not really "reaching" much farther than the pin, so its minimal