how to prevent oil starvation to head

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SLM

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Hi, long story short, i put an engine practically identical to the predator 212 in dimensions ( I am saying this just so people have a general idea of what the engine looks like and how it works and where everything is since the predator is so well known) in a MTB to make a motorcycle ( Please i beg of yall, i d ont want any comments bout how it would be easier to buy a minibike, i wanted to do this as a fun challenge project, no comments bout how dumb this is, please, i already know) and so far so good but now i just realized that im gonna have oil starvation on the top of the engine since the engine is now mounted with the cilynder slightly slanted forward, so practically vertical, i know that this wont be an issue for the bottom end since the dip will still be more than sufficiently submerged but i dont know how to get oil to the top, seperate oil system? i dont know
open to any ideas (that arent taking the engine off)
thanks
 
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Whitetrashrocker said:
How does the oil get to the top in a normal mounted engine? There is no oil pump.
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in a normal engine the dipper splashing round throws a bit of oil up into the head, not a huge amount but small enough to lubricte the top
i should say this is my guess, i dont know this for sue but judging from the design thats wha i think, either way it has to be lubricated somehow cause when i take off the rocker cover they r always wet with oil, nd the rocker cover has an incorporated catch can, i think thats whayt it is no?
 
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Denny said:
What WTR is saying is it will be fine.
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i actually saw a video of a guy who did something like what i did nd he didt have any tubes to the head (unlike most other builds ive seen) nd he seemed to be running fine, although i wasnt able to find how long this person kept the engine that way, but sure, ill risk it for the name of science, thanks for the replies
 
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I would say oil the top end the same way you do in a standard mounting configuration. Run lines from the top of the side cover into both sides of the rocker cover. I do this on my hotter high rpm builds, and it works very well. Seeing how your engine is canted somewhat, the top of the side cover may be in a different place. Still, very easy to drill and tap using a 1/8" NPT tap. That is the size of the common screw in fittings.
 
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panchothedog said:
I would say oil the top end the same way you do in a standard mounting configuration. Run lines from the top of the side cover into both sides of the rocker cover. I do this on my hotter high rpm builds, and it works very well. Seeing how your engine is canted somewhat, the top of the side cover may be in a different place. Still, very easy to drill and tap using a 1/8" NPT tap. That is the size of the common screw in fittings.
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were do i attach lines to the side cover, either way, im starting a project that i had been wanting to do for a while, im gonna attempt to make my own version of freevalve for the engine, ill figure out the oiling once im done with all that
 
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I am very interested in your project, now. I have built a few experimental rotary valve 4 stroke engines with varying degrees of success.
 
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panchothedog

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Attach the lines to the side cover at its highest point. You don't want it to empty the sump by throwing liquid out. At the high point of the crankcase there will be an oily mist that will flow through the lines from pressure. Seeing how your engine sits on an angle, it will be up to you to find the highest point. Make a couple of marks, remove the cover, and drill and tap. There are lots of pictures of built engines incorporating this all over the internet. Obviously you then have to do the same to the rocker cover. I use the thicker cast aluminum valve covers.
 
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Sparkwizard said:
I am very interested in your project, now. I have built a few experimental rotary valve 4 stroke engines with varying degrees of success.
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i thought bout rotary valves but sealing issues turned me away, besides, rotary isnt something that is easily scalable to an actual car, which is what i plan to do eventually, im using this as a test bed, still got a lot of work till that tho

What do u mean by varyying dgree? could expand more on your experience and how it went, how it worked and how you powered it, i think itd be helpfull, thanks
 
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Timing belt, rotating +cam+ with openings machined into it for intake and exhaust, mounted in a custom head.
I got a couple of them running, but sealing was a problem. At higher RPM, it would run, but smoked alot. Never got any of them to idle because the vacuum in the intake and the pressure in the combustion chamber didn't get along. I had severe backfires because I could not seal the bearing journal in the head, where my "cam" was spinning. I gave up on them in 2007.
 
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Sparkwizard said:
Timing belt, rotating +cam+ with openings machined into it for intake and exhaust, mounted in a custom head.
I got a couple of them running, but sealing was a problem. At higher RPM, it would run, but smoked alot. Never got any of them to idle because the vacuum in the intake and the pressure in the combustion chamber didn't get along. I had severe backfires because I could not seal the bearing journal in the head, where my "cam" was spinning. I gave up on them in 2007.
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ya thats pretty much what i figured, impossible sealing, shame, thats great system in theory
where did you attace the timing belt from? cuz i need somewhere to attach a supercharger and an air compressor in this build, ill probably run the compressor off the supercharger to be honest, but ideally they would be powered separetly
 
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Here is an interesting project. This guy built a smog pump super system for a 4 horse Briggs flat head. His final (to date) belt drive is described at around PAGE 18, not post 18. Not my cup of tea, but I was young and had time and tools once, too.

Smog pump supercharger

I have searched the forums and got interested.. This smog pump on eBay is 40$-75$ I thought I could make a very short intake out of some washers and a pipe for a 22-28mm carburetor for the smog pump inlet port. Then on the pumps outlet port just a washer and a pipe. same on the intake port on...
oldminibikes.com
 
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