How easily does a Smog Pump spin ?

[x-Speedy-212-x]

I've been wondering this for SO..LONG but I chose a turbocharger because i know how they operate and know they spin pretty well(journal bearing).

Was curious about the smog pump supercharging thing but the only downfall is how hard is the pulley to rotate? If it is really stiff i don't think I would go that route.
For example: can it spin somewhat freely if you spin it hard enough? That would be acceptable. I guess it depends on what make and model vehicle it came from though.


If i really choose to, i could go the procharging route by modifying the turbos' exhaust side to be pulley driven.
Now That would be fun and unique.

Now don't tell me this isn't worth the trouble! lol. I'm already farther than most have dreamed of going.

Thanks.

 

[mckutzy]

Turbochargers spin on the turbine shaft. The impeller is bolted to the opposite end of that...
It'll be alot to modify it to be spun by belt or chain...
The shaft is really precisely ground, that aids in the ability to hold oil, aswell as prevent it from exploding...
You won't be able to just make up a dummy shaft to replace it... Also, you can't just grind off the fins and try to attach a pulley or sprocket to that... It's Inconel..grinder won't touch it...

 

[x-Speedy-212-x]

I can make it happen. Just need an answer from a positive person.

---------- Post added at 06:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:31 PM ----------

It'll be alot to modify it to be spun by belt or chain...
\
You won't be able to just make up a dummy shaft to replace it... Also, you can't just grind off the fins and try to attach a pulley or sprocket to that... It's Inconel..grinder won't touch it...

"won't." " can't. "

Just need the time and energy for it.
I could make a youtube video series "Turbo-to-Procharger" conversion.

I'd just hope the bearings don't get yanked against creating more friction.

This is getting wayy off topic but i could get a pulley and drill a hole in the center, slide shaft on and affix it.
But i'm not wanting that. At least yet. Or ever maybe. I dunno.

 

[Flyinhillbilly]

A smog pump from a 68 VW bus is basically just a roots blower in miniature.

 

[bob58o]

pretty good site.
http://www.elsberg-tuning.dk/supercharging.html
Well, the smog pump is an airpump, a supercharger is nothing but an airpump, so of course a smogpump can be adapted as one! My experiences with this cheap and plentiful smogpump is all good! But like everything else, the equation must sum up. Pumps have different sizes, and maybe not the size needed! The most trouble I have had with a smog pump supercharger was a wrong sized pump! Intended use is important too! I have used the smog pump as a supercharger on a racebike for short distance races. I have not used the pump as a part of a daily transport vehicle. Unlike the situation of a racebike, which is "supposed to be" taken apart and inspected, before next racemeeting, a daily driver would present other problems. Will the five roller- bearings inside the rotating drum be washed out, by the fuel- mix present?
The most common, and cheapest, smog pump is the one mounted on GM and Ford V8 engined vehicles from 1969- onwards. Also known as an A.I.R. pump, this device can be found attached to the front of the engine, driven by a v- belt. These pumps gave a steady 5psi reading, when tested for functionality, and their mission was to ingest air, via small tubes to each exhaust manifold, just outside each exhaust port. This air- injection helped igniting the catalytic- converter, reducing emissions emitting the exhaust pipe.
The engine of a 69 Corvette - spot the smogpump in front of the engine.
At left a standard smog pump - right modified smog pump. Converting your smogpump into a supercharger goes like this:
Unbolt the rear cover, and pry it apart, but very gently! These are delicate thin- wall castings and you dont want a leaking supercharger. A little trick here is to drift out the two dovels, which lines up everything. After loosening the cover, you have to wiggle it from side to side to extract the cover-mounted axle from the vanes rollerbearings. Once out, you can see the internals. Most significant is the large metal drum, with two vanes protruding 180degrees apart. You can also note the rollerbearing which supports the barrel. If You want to change the direction of rotation, you must pull the bearing support from the drum. A simple special tool must be made for this operation. The support is a casting, and a bit fragile! Once the bearing support is removed, you can see the two cages containing the seals. These cages are asymmetrical because one of the seals has a spring behind it. If you try to run the pump counter- clockwise as is, this spring will be compressed. Result will be a major leak, and at high rpm, the seals can move around and break! So it is vital that the cages are loosened, turned around, and welded back in! If the six? spotwelds are carefully removed, the cages can be loosened without getting out of shape. When re- installing the bearing support, take care not to squish the curved end- seals
As an alternative you can run a jackshaft, allowing you to run the smogpump as is - see drawing!
Most smogpumps has its air- intake in front, behind the plastic-fan, which also acts as an airfilter. This is no good since its quite impossible to fit a carb or much needed airfilter here. This intake can be closed by applying Devcon, or similar, into the hole.
Special tool for pulling rear bearing support. Insert flynuts from the back - through the hole.