How do I remove pistons from Enginetix calipers?

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babzog

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How do I remove pistons from Enginetics calipers?

Have removed the calipers and now want to remove the pistons so I can clean everything up. They're stuck quite firmly in place. Don't want to pry where I shouldn't so I'm looking for a "correct" method of removing them.
 

frankysfree

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Brake calipers? You take an air nozzle and blow air into the hole where brake line goes into. Just make sure to put a rag where the piston comes out cause it will shoot out like a bullet if your not careful...
 

babzog

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Just tried that, they didn't budge. They (well, at least one) moved a bit last week when I hit the brake pedal so I assume they're not totally beyond hope.
 

klicky96

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Now i know this will sound stupid to many, but I'd soak them in used motor oil. Yes, this may sound messy and all, and it can be, but it'd lube everything up and the piston should fall out. just remember to filter the motor oil when you are done. I use this for a lot of things; chains, brakes, bearings, bolts, etc. It works. It penetrates easily and will even keep the insides from rusting away.
 

used2jeep

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My boss had a bad experience with motor oil in the brake system of a bus. Seems he wasn't paying attention and put the wrong fluid into the wrong hole. Long story short: all of the rubber brake lines got soft and had to be replaced.

YMMV
 

klicky96

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I'm just saying for small stuff like this. I run a complete hydraulic system, and sometimes, i have trouble getting everything a part. I don't run rubber hoses either, mine are all steel. I wouldn't use a rubber hose on a kart unless it was for the gas, and in that case, mine are all carriaged in a metal sleeve.
 

used2jeep

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I'm just saying for small stuff like this. I run a complete hydraulic system, and sometimes, i have trouble getting everything a part. I don't run rubber hoses either, mine are all steel. I wouldn't use a rubber hose on a kart unless it was for the gas, and in that case, mine are all carriaged in a metal sleeve.
S'all good. I was actually thinking on what parts of my brakes should be rubber and what should be steel this a.m. The OP came in handy today.
 

babzog

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Ha! Someone on another forum suggested using a grease gun to pop the pistons free (more pressure, less danger than using comp air). Went to the auto parts store after work and they had a grease fitting that fit the caliper! Also picked up a new brass plug for the master cyl (the plastic one was shorn off at the square drive end). Got home and about 6 strokes of the grease gun got them out (maybe 8 for the other)!

Cleaned up, the bores look okay, little bit of cleanup required. One of the pistons isn't too bad but the other is looking not the best. The top 1/8" is fairly rusted but below that, it looks more like (dark) surface rust staining.
 

klicky96

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You could probably use a chemical. Like acetone or probably just brake cleaner or something. Steel wool could rough up the surface, thats the only thing I don't like about it.
 

Doc Sprocket

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I'm just saying for small stuff like this. I run a complete hydraulic system, and sometimes, i have trouble getting everything a part. I don't run rubber hoses either, mine are all steel. I wouldn't use a rubber hose on a kart unless it was for the gas, and in that case, mine are all carriaged in a metal sleeve.

As a matter of curiosity- You use no flex line? What kind of brakes are you using, drum? With a floating caliper, you always want to use a section of flexible line.

Oil may free up stuck parts, but count on replacing rubber boots, seals, O-rings- whatever your particular system may use. Petroleum eats these things in short order.
 

klicky96

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i use steel brake lines, like car-brake lines. They are mounted from my front to my rer. I thought "hey, lets make sure i don't have a problem or anything." I use a seal coat on all my line fitting, i'v never had a problem.
 

Doc Sprocket

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i use steel brake lines, like car-brake lines. They are mounted from my front to my rer. I thought "hey, lets make sure i don't have a problem or anything." I use a seal coat on all my line fitting, i'v never had a problem.

No, I understand you're using steel. Me too, you should use nothing but steel for hard-line. However, I'm asking what type of brakes you're using. Floating calipers should always be connected with a section of flex line- they move (hence the term, "floating". Steel line should not be allowed to move. Cracks will ensue. You may not have had a problem so far, but that doesn't make it right.
 

babzog

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How do you clean those? steel wool?

I was wondering about that too. The rebuild sheet I saw says to use 600 paper to clean the bores. Figured I start on the pistons with something a bit heavier then smooth with 600. Hopefully I can find some orings to fit. If they still look like dren after sanding, then I'll just order the kits. The master cyl will be a bit more challenging to find seals for, as one of the orings is a weird flat kind. Might need the rebuild kit for that too even though the plunger looks great.
 

frankysfree

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Ha! Someone on another forum suggested using a grease gun to pop the pistons free (more pressure, less danger than using comp air). Went to the auto parts store after work and they had a grease fitting that fit the caliper! Also picked up a new brass plug for the master cyl (the plastic one was shorn off at the square drive end). Got home and about 6 strokes of the grease gun got them out (maybe 8 for the other)!

Cleaned up, the bores look okay, little bit of cleanup required. One of the pistons isn't too bad but the other is looking not the best. The top 1/8" is fairly rusted but below that, it looks more like (dark) surface rust staining.

Haha. I havent been on in a while and i was reading after my response and was just about to suggest that. Air works 98% of the time but i have had ones that were REALLY bad that took the grease gun method.

Oh and DO NOT use acetone to clean anything on it. To clean grease out use brake cleaner. To clean the paint off on the outside use steel wool and/or a polishing wheel. If you dont want the polished look, then after polishing with wheel, take steel wool and go over it in a circular pattern and it will get you the dull brushed aluminum look.
 
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