Honda odyssey pull start problem
- Thread starter RandomK
- Start date
looks like a threaded on sleeve almost..
could you clean the shaft some and take another pic please,
the grease slightly obscures the view and the face looks weird with that concentric groove.
'threads' are too smoth to just be stripped too
to me it looks like the two washers and the nut have been put in place and then ground down..
carefully measure the OD of that remnants as well (it's metric, so don't bother measuring in imperial units)
stripped threads can be repaired..
on an FL250 I'd say you should have it done correctly.
(shaft rebuilt via spraywelding ideally.. or welded up oversize then lathed down to spec and a fresh original size thread recut.)
cutting a smaller thread might not be a good idea...
it'll work for a while, but removing more material also means having less for a later proper repair.
You might be able to step up though..
IDK but I think the nut itself isn't too tight a all it only holds the ratched pawls in place and preloads the fridtion springs..
not much force required ...
So a threaded tube with the correct ID soldered on (to be reversible) might do the trick,
but first, clean that up some more and post another pic please
'sid
could you clean the shaft some and take another pic please,
the grease slightly obscures the view and the face looks weird with that concentric groove.
'threads' are too smoth to just be stripped too
to me it looks like the two washers and the nut have been put in place and then ground down..
carefully measure the OD of that remnants as well (it's metric, so don't bother measuring in imperial units)
stripped threads can be repaired..
on an FL250 I'd say you should have it done correctly.
(shaft rebuilt via spraywelding ideally.. or welded up oversize then lathed down to spec and a fresh original size thread recut.)
cutting a smaller thread might not be a good idea...
it'll work for a while, but removing more material also means having less for a later proper repair.
You might be able to step up though..
IDK but I think the nut itself isn't too tight a all it only holds the ratched pawls in place and preloads the fridtion springs..
not much force required ...
So a threaded tube with the correct ID soldered on (to be reversible) might do the trick,
but first, clean that up some more and post another pic please
'sid
thanks for the cleaner view..
and frankly.. I am even more convinved than befor that there is something ON the thread
rather than there is some thread gone...
The measurement I asked about could now essentially solidify my assumption
(well ... or falsify my claim of course
)
w/o the measurement
try heating it up with a pocket torch maybe soak it in PB Blaster
or other good quality penetrating oil (wd40 only super penetrant; not the original formula!!),
then hit it counterclockwise with a punch,
or use a hacksaw (hand held.. no power tool!)
- again so that the teeth will pull counterclockwise in case it grabs-
I think what happened is that some PO used some wire or thinwall tube to beef up the original thread..
since he wanted to use some next size up imperial nut instead of the metric one that belongs on there...
which of course led to a failure. (3/8" instead of M8 for example)
Tough, but that top edge does not lok like a stripped thread folding in on itself to me..
and the gaps are essentially marking where the washers ought to be (and washers do not strip threads)
if you got a measurement and are convinced it's certainly nothing but a stripped thread,
try recutting it to it's original size wit a high quality threading die
(IIRC it's an M8 1.25 ) first, that way you can tell how much material has been lost and judge if it's better to step up or down from there.
'sid
and frankly.. I am even more convinved than befor that there is something ON the thread
rather than there is some thread gone...
The measurement I asked about could now essentially solidify my assumption
(well ... or falsify my claim of course
)w/o the measurement
try heating it up with a pocket torch maybe soak it in PB Blaster
or other good quality penetrating oil (wd40 only super penetrant; not the original formula!!),
then hit it counterclockwise with a punch,
or use a hacksaw (hand held.. no power tool!)
- again so that the teeth will pull counterclockwise in case it grabs-
I think what happened is that some PO used some wire or thinwall tube to beef up the original thread..
since he wanted to use some next size up imperial nut instead of the metric one that belongs on there...
which of course led to a failure. (3/8" instead of M8 for example)
Tough, but that top edge does not lok like a stripped thread folding in on itself to me..
and the gaps are essentially marking where the washers ought to be (and washers do not strip threads
)if you got a measurement and are convinced it's certainly nothing but a stripped thread,
try recutting it to it's original size wit a high quality threading die
(IIRC it's an M8 1.25 ) first, that way you can tell how much material has been lost and judge if it's better to step up or down from there.
'sid
Karts of Kaos
the many mowers guy
agree with sid, it looks like there is something there on the threads .
frostyflammable
Member
Almost looks like the remains of a heli-coil maybe?
Try a pair of pliers and see if it will spin off. And don’t knock it too hard don’t wanna destroy the threads that are still there.
And here guys this will help..........
And here guys this will help..........
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No.. an M8 1.25 die
it's still bigger than an M8 core (that'd be 6.5mm)
but it's now getting perfectly plausible to be nothing a stripped thread indeed
I even think there's a thread reforming tool for such occasions
like thread mate or something (external thread repair yields some results)
I'm still amazed how smoothly that material folded over..
but assuming half of the formed thread was folded over by a half stripped nut
the result would be indeed 7.25mm (M8 has 0.75mm worth of formed thread around a 6.5mm core..)
So yeah, if there's nothing to remove...
reform the thread with an M8 std threaded die (1.25 mm pitch)
that'd give you a good starting point.
With that (and since it's harder to replace than a nut)
you can try to make use of what you're left with..
by inserting some aforementioned helicoil into the nut first.
IDK what size is recommended here since I doubt there are oddball sizes available
personally I think I'd just weld on some more material,
round it off to 8mm (as precisely as possible) and then recut an M8
maybe brazing on a steel sleeve (8mm OD 6.5mm ID tube) to cut the thread into *shrugs*
'sid