Honda gx200 wont idle

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hoobgx200

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hello all i am new to your site and iv got to say its a wicked site :) any way i have got a Honda wasp go kart that i have now restored so i fort i would de governed the engine (honda gx 200) replace all gaskets and installed 18lb valve springs but can not get it to run with out the choke always being on even when warm if i turn choke of it will cut straight out . i have checked all gaskets are on the right way and there no air leaks that i can see. i thinking its must being running lean ? please help its bugging me now lol
:confused:
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hoobgx200
 

hoobgx200

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all that has been done is new gaskets de governed and valve springs every think else is standard .toystory i have cleaned the carb and blown it out with my compressor but has not help :s thing is it was running ok till i de governed it change gaskets and valve springs lol
 

Doc Sprocket

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Check to make sure gaskets at carb-to-intake are undamaged, installed correctly, and sealing. There should be a spacer/isolator there. Check orientation.
 

hoobgx200

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toystory i have just checked the spacer/isolator and it appears to have a hair line crack on near where the gasket go to the carb do you think this could be the problem? and if so is there a way to test it before i get a new one ?
 

Doc Sprocket

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It is possible. try cleaning the isolator thoroughly, and filling the crack with krazy glue or something. Might be worth a shot.
 

hoobgx200

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ok i give it ago see if it will work by gluing it if it don't work then what could the problem be if it not the isolator lol ?
 

Doc Sprocket

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Gluing it might work, and it might not. And it still may well be the problem. If it doesn't work, replace it. Air leaks between the carb and intake will cause havoc with the mixture, making it impossible to tune.
 

hoobgx200

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souperman iv still got standard internls only de governed and 18lb springs. I tried gluing the insulater but still doing the same as was before so I'm going get a new one see if that help and other then that I don't no what it could be ?
 

Doc Sprocket

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Wait and see what new insulator does for you. Also- if there are any adjustments to be made on the carb, make sure they are adjusted correctly.

And you missed Souperman's point. The general consensus is that running ungoverned is most safely done with the stock springs, as valve flutter will act as a natural rev limiter. The springs should be the LAST internal upgraded.
 

hoobgx200

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ok i wait to see if the new insulator works . i can only see one adjuster on the carb its on the side by the throttle butterfly how will i no if it set right ? toystory the only reason i changed the springs to 18lb ones is because i was told its a must if you de governed the engine :( . also i have a honda g 200 engine sitting there that i was giving is there any think on that i can use on my gx200 engine ? thanks
 

landuse

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ok i wait to see if the new insulator works . i can only see one adjuster on the carb its on the side by the throttle butterfly how will i no if it set right ? toystory the only reason i changed the springs to 18lb ones is because i was told its a must if you de governed the engine :( . also i have a honda g 200 engine sitting there that i was giving is there any think on that i can use on my gx200 engine ? thanks

The reason why it is not advisable to change the springs before getting billet internals is because the internals will now not be saved by valve flutter, which would happen with the stock springs. Valve flutter occurs when the RPM's get so high that the springs cannot work fast enough to open and close the valves properly. The stiffer 18lb springs are strong enough for this, therefor allowing your engine to rev higher. If the internals are still stock, they can fail catastrophically at these RPMs.

Turn the idle screw all the way in gently, and then out 1.5 turns. This is a good place to start. Get the engine going and let it warm up (if you can), and then fine tune the idle screw to what you need
 

r_chez_08

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The g200 can donate some good 18lb valve springs :roflol: seriously.
Nothing else fits as far as I know.
 

r_chez_08

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$120 buys you a billet rod and a billet steel flywheel. Think this way- your rod snaps, then you may need a new block and rod, and possibly other parts. This would be more than $60. Your flywheel goes, and you may need a new face...

I plan to get one of these for my clone when they come out-
http://www.doverpoweronlinestore.com/catalog/item/8251221/9513846.htm
Or you could get this-
http://www.doverpoweronlinestore.com/catalog/item/8251221/9470303.htm
OR this-
http://www.racecityraceparts.com/servlet/the-8017/Box-Stock-Project-Steel/Detail

OR a billet aluminium or gxv160 cast aluminium. Both are usually $100+
 

hoobgx200

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i fill bit of a spanner now i should look up more on it before i started :( but they say u learn from you mistake lol i going invest in billet rod and a billet steel flywheel ect soon as i get my new insulator and no that its running ok thanks for all the advise :)
 

souperman000

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i fill bit of a spanner now i should look up more on it before i started :( but they say u learn from you mistake lol i going invest in billet rod and a billet steel flywheel ect soon as i get my new insulator and no that its running ok thanks for all the advise :)

No problem! We just would hate to hear you got hurt by your rod shotting out of the engine.

No harm no Foul. :cheers2:
 
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