Honda engine ?

pearl111

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A friend gave me a Honda gx160 engine needs cleaned up. This will be my first overhead Honda. Anyways if I remove the gov. and upgrade the Etube, jet and air filter about how much HP. might this motor be?
Also, around how many RPMs might this engine do?
Thanks.
 

BrownStainRacing

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A friend gave me a Honda gx160 engine needs cleaned up. This will be my first overhead Honda. Anyways if I remove the gov. and upgrade the Etube, jet and air filter about how much HP. might this motor be?
Also, around how many RPMs might this engine do?
Thanks.
That's a good lil engine. 👌
It's the same block, 68mm bore as the popular 196cc.
The 160 has a 45mm crank.
The 196 has a 54mm crank.

It's very ez and cheap to turn it into a 196. Crank, rod and piston is all it takes. Cheap clone 196 parts fit.

I suggest running it as a 160 with gov still working, the lil motor might jus surprise you.

In stock form, it's outta breath at 4800-4900, theres no need to remove the governor, jus tune it to turn 4800-4900.

Some 160's came with an aluminum flywheel. That'll save some $ when you decide to build it up.

There's also different crankshafts installed for different applications, water pumps, generators, etc.

Check the size of the crank and for a keyway.
 

BrownStainRacing

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@pearl111

Have you checked that flywheel and crank yet???

Another interesting part about the gx160, is it comes with a 14cc head.
It's a restrictive head on a bigger cc engine, but an hrs worth of work with a dremal, opening up the bowl areas and unshrouding the valves will fix that problem.

That lil small chambered head will set a 196, 212, or 223 on fire. With that big CR bump, most people have to drop gear to keep it under control.

I save all the 14cc heads I can find, and use them for ONLY heavy weight riders, that have a hard time pulling outta the hole or up big steep hills.
 

pearl111

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@pearl111

Have you checked that flywheel and crank yet???

Another interesting part about the gx160, is it comes with a 14cc head.
It's a restrictive head on a bigger cc engine, but an hrs worth of work with a dremal, opening up the bowl areas and unshrouding the valves will fix that problem.

That lil small chambered head will set a 196, 212, or 223 on fire. With that big CR bump, most people have to drop gear to keep it under control.

I save all the 14cc heads I can find, and use them for ONLY heavy weight riders, that have a hard time pulling outta the hole or up big steep hills.
I'm not sure what you mean when you say.......unshourding the valves. .....Also opening the bowl areas.....
is that the same as port and polish?
 

BrownStainRacing

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I'm not sure what you mean when you say.......unshourding the valves. .....Also opening the bowl areas.....
is that the same as port and polish?

I'll find some pics online. It's raining today, and I'm being lazy.

But, if you pull a valve out and look down into the bowl area, you will see sharp edges and 90* turns that will slow the air fuel mix down. You can knock off those sharp edges and lay those 90* turns down, makes it easier for the mix to travel into the combustion chamber. Air fuel mix is heavier then air, so it will slow down fast, keeping it moving (velocity) will make for a faster throttle response. The engine will be more snappy, and rev faster from idle to WOT, and every where in between.

Unshrounding the valves.
If you look at the combustion chamber closely, you will see how close the edge of the valve is to the sides of the chamber, in SOME areas. When the valve opens this area becomes closer, again slowing the air fuel mix.

NEVER open up the intake runner on these clone style heads. The intake runner is too big to begin with. Making the intake runner bigger, will make the engine feel lazy and throttle response is horrible.

Jus knock off left over casting flash and rough it up with sandpaper to help bust up (atomize) the air fuel mix. Smooth runners will cause the air/ fuel to separate and puddle when it's going thur the intake during low rpm. There's alot going on during the intake stroke, different temps, angles, vacuum, pulses, while the mix is headed to the combustion chamber.

I don't polish these heads, it's a waste of time, IMHO. I use Emory cloth or really fine sandpaper to clean up the chamber and get any imperfections, or any thing that can cause a hot spot, out.

I might get off my butt and get some pics of old heads I got.
 

BrownStainRacing

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I'm not sure what you mean when you say.......unshourding the valves. .....Also opening the bowl areas.....
is that the same as port and polish?
Here's a decent pic of a stock untouched 14cc head.

All the clone style heads needs this worked out, including hemi heads.

You can see on the intake side (right) how close the seat is to the side of the chamber.

I put the dowels in the head, place whatever gasket will be used 68mm or 70mm and use a sharpie to mark the area around the 2 o'clock to 4 o' clock area.
Using a dremal and not going passed the sharpie mark.

Same on exhaust side (left) except mark in the 11 o'clock to 8 o'clock area.

It only takes a few mins, and thats ez free power.

Look down in the bowl areas and you see those sharp edges and turns. Smooth those edges, and turn those 90* drop offs into nice slopped ramps, ez pz free power.

Only takes about a hr to do the work, and you will definitely notice a different note from the exhaust, 👍

I usally take .100" off the end of the valve guide and make it tear dropped shaped, with point aiming towards runner. But, thats my preference.

This is for fun time, back yard play, cruiser, mud hole stomping builds......NOT FOR DRAG RACE ONLY BUILDS.
Gonna need more then a stock head for that.

Screenshot_20230705_113411_Chrome.jpg
 

Oilpan4

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I put a clone "f188" piston with file fit rings in my worn out Honda gx390 and now it does 120psi cold compression at 4,000ft elevation.
I'm not complaining.
Clone parts are cheap and pretty close to Honda parts but seems like there's tiny differences.
 
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