Hilliard springs

[itsid]

.... Nothing will happen that's what they are built for.

And as simple as that: that's not true!

fact is, a governor is very well capable to be adjusted to arount 4000-4500 rpm and still remain intakt IF NO SUDDEN LOAD CHANGE hits it.
that can already break it apart...
anyways, loosening the screw effectively bypasses the governor;
it can ask to set the rpms, but it'll be ignored.

The engine can rev up to ~5500 rpm, worst case that's 30% more than the governors intended rpm band...

And here's the thing...
I don't say it'll fail immediately;
with little to no sudden load changes I see no reason for it to fail either...
but if it fails (and a bump in the road can do that at speed)
it's not just the governor that'll be destroyed..
from about nothing (small dents in the oil sump)
over minor issues (dent's in the cylinderbore and or on the piston)
up to total loss (metal shrapnel locking the piston, cracking the con rod which then shreds the crank case)
about anything could happen!

The question now is:

Does it make sense to be afraid of 15mins of work to remove it completely,
just to risk a total loss?

it's up to you; but a governor is a plastic gear with metal weights, running on a bushing with lousy lubrication driven by a hardened steel gear..and it's made to run BELOW 4k rpm at constant speeds.

seeing what it costs to buy a gx340 and what it takes to remove the governor instead of just bypassing it;
to me the answer is very simple...

either let it do it's work, or remove it;
nothing in between!

'sid

PS Metal Rott has a different opinion, fair enough... but he's the only one

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Since we're quoting me...

1) I always advise people that IF they are going to run well above governed RPM, to do it by fully removing the governor's internal mechanisms, and NOT simply bypassing it externally. Many governors are designed in such a way that if over-revved, can suffer component interference inside the crankcase, and/or have internal parts forced right off the shaft and bounce around loose inside the crankcase. Either case can cause severe engine damage. NOT an "explosion", just largely F'd up internals.

Gentlemen-

This may not be the be-all, end-all on governor theory and practise. I wrote it based on my own observations and experiences, as well as as much empirical evidence as I could gather over several years. Some engines are more susceptible to spew their guts than others, not all governor mechanisms are designed equally. I therefore advise people to go all-or nothing It is a blanket statement that I feel good and confident to make. Your ball.

 

[rmm727]

carter, keep your eyes open if you find a gx340 without the gear reduction, maybe a dead one, fubar if possible (cheap), that you can rip the crank case cover off and reuse that and the crank on yours.

Didn't I already suggest this? Oh wait, I did. Put a clone crank and side cover on it and be done with it.

You can put a different crank and side cover on there and get rid of the reduction if need be. Clone parts will let you do this rather cheaply.

How about we get this thread and quit having a pissing match (couldn't find that emoticon) about governors.

 

[landuse]

How about we get this thread and quit having a pissing match (couldn't find that emoticon) about governors.

This one??

 

[Brad_R]

Thanks for the advice.
What do you guys think I could fetch for the 340 and 2:1redux on eBay in the UK?
I could sell this one and get a brand new electric start 390 clone for around £220

 

[Brad_R]

If I can get around 220 for my 340 I would get a Launtop 390 clone w/ electric start, as then I wouldn't need a Jackshaft, to remove the governor, get a fuel tank etc etc

The electric start would be so handy for my kart as I already have the wiring for it and a battery holder on my kart from my electric start 5hp briggs

 

[itsid]

well around here you cannot get an original GX340 for less than 400 € used (320 GBP)
and honestly I wouldn't sell it for less than that either.
generally you'd have to pay 500€ or more if it's in good condition;
so check your local classifieds and ebay for a similar engine;
just wait a little while, they'll show up, and see what they sell for.

but maybe this is a good idea:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-GX3...S_Outdoor_Power_Equipment&hash=item19e68d8b7c
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW...504?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337532e7c8

'sid

 

[Brad_R]

It looks like I'm going to sell mine and get a clone. for a normal clutch does the engine need to have a Q or an S type shaft? What's the difference?

 

[OzFab]

...a Q or an S type shaft?

A what?

What's the difference?

You tell me...

 

[itsid]

*headscratch* .... Ahhhh

Q type straight shaft (imperial)
S type straight shaft (metric)

whatever you feel you could get a clutch for..
I'd go for the Q (imperial) shaft since US clutches and TorqueConverters are easy to find (much easier than a metric clutch )

'sid