High rpm Clutch

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r97

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Why would you want a clutch that runs that high? Not a smartarsed question- I really am curious...

i was gonna ask that but then i was like....... yea, ill just give him a link, lol. ill try to find one for 41 chain

EDIT:http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200310374_200310374?cm_ven=Aggregates&cm_cat=Google&cm_pla=Go-Karts%2C%20Electric%20Bikes%20%2B%20Scooters%3EGo-Kart%20%2B%20Mini-Bike%20Accessories&cm_ite=13793?ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=13793

best i could find
 

Blazkowiez

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Why would you want a clutch that runs that high? Not a smartarsed question- I really am curious...

When you engage a standard clutch at 2000 rpm you are only using a portion of your engine's horsepower versus a stall clutch which can be set to engage at 2600-3400 rpm depending on the settings. This is very useful depending on what sort of racing application you have.
 

hawk1093

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Why would you want a clutch that runs that high? Not a smartarsed question- I really am curious...

I figured I would get a couple of these questions.
I got the idea from this post
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=8281
and I was like "yeah I think I could do something like that on my go-kart". In order for it to work however, I need a clutch that engages at a higer speed. Thus the post!
 

hawk1093

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Thanks R97 for looking, but the Northern Tool clutch is just a normal clutch. What I need is exactly what you found on Bmi only in a 40/41 size.
Is there any way I could get that clutch and make it a 40/41??
Just curious.
 

Blazkowiez

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I can't honestly tell you from the stock picture this store supplies hawk... MaxTorque makes a clutch where you can adjust the weights in the clutch but that is not a picture of said clutch. You can trip and adjust a spring and re-install and sell the clutch but this makes no sense if someone does not raise the price for their personal labor.
 

Blazkowiez

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The lower cost MaxTorque clutches were being sold by us for 65 as recently as a year ago... I don't think that model is still in production.
 

r97

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Thanks R97 for looking, but the Northern Tool clutch is just a normal clutch. What I need is exactly what you found on Bmi only in a 40/41 size.
Is there any way I could get that clutch and make it a 40/41??
Just curious.

i know its normal but 2300 rpm was the closest i could find that wasn't overly expensive. also i hate to inform you but you need a special clutch if you want to use them on a 2-speed jack-shaft, the main clutch needs 2 sprockets (which isn't that hard to find), but the secondary clutch (not sure if thats exactly what its called but sounds about right to me) needs to have the shoe assembly on bearings instead of the usual setup with the drum on bearings. another difference between a normal clutch and the secondary clutch on a 2-speed jack-shaft, is that the secondary clutch has tighter springs, a sprocket welded to the shoe assemble instead of the drum, and it has a drum more like a drum brake drum, not like the average cent clutch drum.

on the plus side of things i was thinking you could fix the above problems while still using a normal clutch, and high levels of skill, first get a brake drum and throw-away the stock clutch drum, second, weld a sprocket to the shoe assembly EXACTLY on center, thirdly, take a few loops out of the springs so they become tighter, finally (this is the tough part) figure out a way to put bearings in the shoe assembly, i was thinking boring out the assembly, but i doubt there is enough metal so that you could bore it out enough for a bearing, the other option is attaching some sort of bearing flange to the shoe assembly.
 

hawk1093

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The way I designed it ( on paper ) I don't think I will need a two sprocketed main clutch.
I didn't know that the "secondary clutch" was different than a normal clutch. What would happen if I used a normal cent clutch?
Would one of those fancy racing clutches wouldn't work?
 

r97

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if you used any normal, or raceing clutch, all that would happen is you would get into first speed no problem but then instead of shifting into second you would just spin the clutch drum really fast unless you make the mods i mentioned above, also you do know the first-gear sprocket has to have a built in free-wheel device which are almost impossible to find for #35 or other standard size kart chain, you could rig up a bike free-wheel but that may have some problems, can you explain how you propse to run this without a 2-sprocket clutch, are you just planning on adding in a second jack-shaft? you can still buy these, but for the price you may wish to get a tc, i would still consider buying one though just because its more interesting, i have heard some people think they are better,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130401006733&crlp=1_263602_263622&ff4=263602_263622&viewitem=&guid=cedcf8cd1260a0aad2e47214ff2e2e33&rvr_id=137756920902&ua=WVS%3F&itemid=130401006733
 

r97

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don't ask me, i get annoyed by the same thing every time, lol, if you draw a sketch then take a pic of it you could post that, but it may be too much work.
 

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Alright untill I can get pics I will attempt to explain it.: On the engine shaft there is a normal clutch (clutch1) and a sprocket(sprocket1) . Below the engine there is jackshaft with a high speed clutch(clutch2) and another sprocket(sprocket 2) . There are two chains the first chain runs over Clutch1 and Clutch2 and finaly over the axle. The second chain raps around Sprocket1 and Sprocket2 witch provides power to the jackshaft.
In Summary: When the engine turns both its shaft and the jackshaft will begin to spin thanks to the sprockets, once the engine reaches 1800 rpm the first clutch will engage rolling the chain around the other clutch and the axle, when the clutch reaches 3000 rpm Clutch 2 will engage overiding Clutch1 and providing more power.
I hope this gives a clear picture of what I am trying to do. If not sorry it's the best I could do.
It all works in my head but I'd love to hear what you think
 
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