busted_blocks
Active member
Those sure do look simple. I'll try and order one tomorrow. Best solution for sure.
High Compression GX200 - Oil blowing out valve cover, gas blowing out the carb
- Thread starter busted_blocks
- Start date
Darren
Active member
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Denny
Canned Monster
No, you need one of the brass ones!
Darren
Active member
I'm cheap, used one of these for the fuel return line on my kart, surprised how strong it was.
busted_blocks
Active member
Yeah, I don't think they have long term resistance to gasoline. I did order a stainless one. Should arrive tomorrow.
Rat
Well-known member
It's not the gas, they aren't even exposed to it except maybe for spills... it's the UV exposure and cold that is in fact the real issue as far as the plastic degrading.
Ultimately you only need a saddle clamp to pinch off the line and reduce/control the flow... not that difficult to just make one if you're feeling froggy.
busted_blocks
Active member
That's a good point, just need to control the flow. I bought one of those IV line drip flow adjuster to try too. clamps any hose from the outside. It was in the same store as the shutoff valve and I had to get some Y fittings too, so might as well buy 'em all at the same time and save shipping.
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IV.png
Denny
Canned Monster
I like the needle valves, more precise.
Darren
Active member
The advantage of these clamps is that they are kind to kart fuel line and that you can't overtighten them because they're plastic, a metal clamp could be a little overkill, remember you're only working with 1 or 2psi if that. I positioned my clamp right next to the fuel tank for easy tuning access,
busted_blocks
Active member
There was some good progress today. I put on a gravity tank and the carb stopped spitting gas out the air filter. I had to adjust the float but that problem seems to be solved. I added a picture of the float level marked in red. You guys are awesome!
I did have some trouble tuning the carb. The issue I'm having is while at low rpm, especially after a corner and then giving it full throttle. essentially instant full throttle. It just entirely shuts off, or barely makes it back to life. I can feather the throttle and recover it, but there is something not tuned right. So full throttle high rpm into a corner where I have to hit the brakes fairly hard, give it full gas again coming out of the corner and it dies. I have taken off the carb at this point and there is a little bit of gas in the black mounting boot, but it's not a river running into the head and there is still no spray out the intake. Level in the carb bowl seems very consistent. Any ideas or things to test would be very much appreciated.
The engine is loving the high rpm full throttle. Makes some nice power. I sitll have it limited to 5500rpm. So no issue on the straight aways, just coming out of corners it bogs down or dies.
I haven't received my parts yet to add the bypass or the fuel pump but I now know it was for sure that was a big issue.
Another small problem, I do now have a little oil coming out the breather tube. I put a rag over the filter and 1 way valve so I could see how much leaked a bit better. I don't have the pressure gauge mounted anymore as the gravity tank fits in that spot. The side cover never loosened, but I did have to re-torque the head stud nuts once.
I did have 1 more issue and this is a bit of a bone head mistake. The kart died mid track, so got out to start it but it didn't want to start. I gave it a bit of gas with the throttle cable which got stuck a bit open and the kart took off without me! Oh man, what a dummy. Bent tie rods, bent steering column and the front bumper needed some love from a heat gun...
I did have some trouble tuning the carb. The issue I'm having is while at low rpm, especially after a corner and then giving it full throttle. essentially instant full throttle. It just entirely shuts off, or barely makes it back to life. I can feather the throttle and recover it, but there is something not tuned right. So full throttle high rpm into a corner where I have to hit the brakes fairly hard, give it full gas again coming out of the corner and it dies. I have taken off the carb at this point and there is a little bit of gas in the black mounting boot, but it's not a river running into the head and there is still no spray out the intake. Level in the carb bowl seems very consistent. Any ideas or things to test would be very much appreciated.
The engine is loving the high rpm full throttle. Makes some nice power. I sitll have it limited to 5500rpm. So no issue on the straight aways, just coming out of corners it bogs down or dies.
I haven't received my parts yet to add the bypass or the fuel pump but I now know it was for sure that was a big issue.
Another small problem, I do now have a little oil coming out the breather tube. I put a rag over the filter and 1 way valve so I could see how much leaked a bit better. I don't have the pressure gauge mounted anymore as the gravity tank fits in that spot. The side cover never loosened, but I did have to re-torque the head stud nuts once.
I did have 1 more issue and this is a bit of a bone head mistake. The kart died mid track, so got out to start it but it didn't want to start. I gave it a bit of gas with the throttle cable which got stuck a bit open and the kart took off without me! Oh man, what a dummy. Bent tie rods, bent steering column and the front bumper needed some love from a heat gun...
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breather line2.jpg -
breather line.jpg
Denny
Canned Monster
Glad to see you are on a better path now.
Rat
Well-known member
Looks a bit high actually. PWK float hight is 19mm off the bowl seat (essentially the float bottoms should be even with the jet)
Thats most consistent with float hight
busted_blocks
Active member
Just a quick update. Things at the track got a bit complicated. Business wasn't good and my mechanic friend changed jobs. Tuning at the track alone is less fun and the pricing is such that if I do a few test laps I have to pay the $25 fee. I was letting the mechanic do the testing until things were stable and then I'd do a day of driving. So I brought my kart home until I figure out a better system.
I'm planning to build a dyno based on a hydraulic pump. I have to make sure the funds are available before I start. If I start buying parts for the dyno I'll start a build thread for it. Then I can do more engine testing at home. It's a bit complicated as I live on the roof of a building and have to insulate for sound and vibration. doable but not as simple as bolting some parts together. Then cooling the fluid so continuous running is possible under load etc.
Back in a week or 2
I'm planning to build a dyno based on a hydraulic pump. I have to make sure the funds are available before I start. If I start buying parts for the dyno I'll start a build thread for it. Then I can do more engine testing at home. It's a bit complicated as I live on the roof of a building and have to insulate for sound and vibration. doable but not as simple as bolting some parts together. Then cooling the fluid so continuous running is possible under load etc.
Back in a week or 2
Darren
Active member
There's a hydraulic dyno DIY build on youtube, General hydraulic pumps don't like to turn too fast, you can run the hot fluid through a standard cheap radiator.
I was thinking of a simple hydraulic dyno, then I saw a video of a dyno using a lorry wheel setup, the advantage of this is a massive heat sink, late ford cargo uses a disc caliper on the front, this can be used and then you can use a thin hydraulic fluid with a fairly accurate pressure gauge, the ABS ring for rpm pick up, I could probably knock one up for £500, there's another video of a shop using a brake disc dyno with a strain gauge for accurate results. They use a calibrated 1foot bar with the strain gauge on the end, this gives ft/lb torque
Brake disc dyno example:
There's even a diy dyno website.
I would love to make one, but I have other stuff I need to finish as well as the 'fun kart'
I was thinking of a simple hydraulic dyno, then I saw a video of a dyno using a lorry wheel setup, the advantage of this is a massive heat sink, late ford cargo uses a disc caliper on the front, this can be used and then you can use a thin hydraulic fluid with a fairly accurate pressure gauge, the ABS ring for rpm pick up, I could probably knock one up for £500, there's another video of a shop using a brake disc dyno with a strain gauge for accurate results. They use a calibrated 1foot bar with the strain gauge on the end, this gives ft/lb torque
Brake disc dyno example:
There's even a diy dyno website.
I would love to make one, but I have other stuff I need to finish as well as the 'fun kart'
busted_blocks
Active member
The brake dyno is quick for sure. My idea is to not just have a dyno but a setup that can load an engine for extended periods for break in and simulation of some track conditions. I'm aiming for $500 budget, but things add up quick. Here it's often easier to just buy parts than hack them together. A radiator would work but the hydraulic fluid cooler (just a radiator and a fan) is $80 and can cool about 10HP (7500W), if marketing stats can be believed. I want to size the pump to be able to handle 40HP, and at 2500rpm max I will gear it about 4:1, which is in the range of off the shelf gears for my kart setup. I just need to do a bit more research and draw it up in CAD. I'll start a thread as soon as get my act together
