Hemi Predator Build #2

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bob58o

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I think it looks awesome.

I'll have to wait to see how it looks on the bike.

I think it looks like my carb just docked with the International Space Station and a Russian Cosmonaut named Boris is banging on things with a pipe wrench inside the crank case.

I like the idea of the carb pointed back with the 45 degree hose, but not as much as the 135 degree so it would point towards the front. I would cut it as short as possible. It would probably still be in the way of my leg and make the least power, but it would look cool and I could call it a ram air intake. Possibly use a screen like this? To shorten the overall length. Maybe with some nylon for added filtration?
 

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bob58o

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Head studs, keepers, pushrods, and side cover gasket are here.
Gasket is 0.021" thick, so same as stock.
The T-Bolt clamp got here in less than 24 hrs.
 

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bob58o

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OK last time it took me 2 hrs to get one set of keepers on. Lets see if my homemade $8 tool helps. The moment of truth. Start the clock at 12:36
 

bob58o

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Time. It was still a Pain!
40 minutes including looking for dropped Keepers.
 

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bob58o

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Now lets see if I have a marker. I'll color the lash caps so they don't show any wear pattern, install the new pushrods and see how it looks.
 

bob58o

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Great tip!
11.5g each. Not sure the weight of the stock ones. ~14grams?
 

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bob58o

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1st pic is valve just opening.
Last pic is max lift.

You can see how it is the bottom of the rocker arm tip pushing the lash cap at the beginning. And then see how as the lift increases it becomes more perpendicular. And finally at max lift it is pushing with the top of the rocker tip.
 

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bob58o

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The rocker arm tip leaves a vertical line on the lash cap.
Here it is. Not too far off center.
 

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bob58o

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Here is a comparison between the two push rods at around half lift.

The shorter push rods allow the rocker arm to be perpendicular to the valve stem at half lift.
 

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bob58o

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Studs installed.

Loctite on bottom part of stud threads.
Hand tighten the studs.
Oil on top of stud threads.
Add washers.
Criss cross tighten nuts.
I did 4 ft lbs to 20 ft lbs in 4 lb increments.
 

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bob58o

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So now the tricky part is going to be breaking in the engine with stock valve springs.

The retainers for the 37lb springs won't fit on the 10.8 lb springs.
The stock retainers for the 10.8 lb springs won't work with the SS valves.
Can't use the stock valves, cause the valve job was for oversized valves.
Can't use the original head unless I send it out for a valve job.

I guess I can order some new aluminum retainers for the smaller springs. These should fit the stock springs and the SS valves.

http://www.nrracing.com/product-p/smret-200-alum.htm

Seems like my best option that does not involve breaking in the cam and valve train using the 37lb springs.
 

Whitetrashrocker

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Just put it together as is going to be and be gentle for the first few runs.

We build a 1200hp alky and don't use break in parts. Build it, run lightly for a few, then flog away!
 

bob58o

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I made an intake gasket. My razor blade isn't very sharp.
It should work fine, but at the moment I need to thread the bolts into the gasket. I need the holes bigger. It seems to fit fine, but I'm afraid the gasket will bunch up or rip or...???
I just think it will work better with slightly larger holes.
 

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bob58o

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Got something to help make gasket making easier.
9 pc Hollow Punch Set.
3/32" - 1/2"
$9 Harbor Freight
 

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bob58o

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One last P2V clearance check. Haven't yet done the exhaust with the 0.027" gasket and the milled head.

No pictures, but the intake clearance was ~ 0.070" - 0.075" and the exhaust was ~ 0.090" - 0.095". Now I am certain that my valves won't be hitting my piston. At least not because I didn't measure carefully enough or cut deep enough.

I will smooth the piston relief when I disassemble for a good leaning and do a final check / reassembly.

So if I ever upgrade to 1.2 rockers... (Still not sure if they will work with these valves and springs - I think I read 1.2 and .275" are max recommended for these length valves)

I would have to cut a relief for the exhaust about 0.035" and go the same amount deeper on the intake. That would bring the intake relief to about 0.100" deep, which is about 1/2 the piston crown. I measured the crown thickness to be around 0.200". I'm guessing going that deep is ok??? Let me look for the max rocker ratio / valve lift / spring info I read.

HERE IT IS (http://www.nrracing.com/product-p/headhemi.htm)...
We do not recommend 1.3 rockers due to valve to piston clearance issues.
The .230" valves may create improper valve geometry when using 1.2 or 1.3 ratio rockers
1.3 ratio rockers may coil bind when using .070" valves
.274 and 1.2 Rockers are max recommended valve lift for .070" long valves
 
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