Hemi Build #3 -Boogie Woogie Woogie

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bob58o

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Green says ~0.0025”
Red says ~0.0035”

I say ~0.003”.

The cheap Harbor Freight digital calipers gives me 1.187" for the crank and 1.190" for the inside of the bearings with the cap torqued to 170 inch pounds.

Measuring to the best of my abilities with the tools I had available, everything looks good enough for government work.
 

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Randy H

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Some plasti-gab

Here T, the clearance to be measured is equal to a constant divided by the width of the strip after deformation. By opening the surfaces to reveal the deformed gauge, W can be measured directly and from this the clearance, T, can be determined.

In practice the need for this calculation is obviated by the use of a calibrated scale on which an array of marks has been printed.

The width of the strip can be compared with the scale. The actual clearance is shown alongside the mark which most nearly corresponds to the width. For greater accuracy the clearance may be interpolated between the two most nearly comparable scale marks.

http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/how.html
 

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bob58o

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Here T, the clearance to be measured is equal to a constant divided by the width of the strip after deformation. By opening the surfaces to reveal the deformed gauge, W can be measured directly and from this the clearance, T, can be determined.

In practice the need for this calculation is obviated by the use of a calibrated scale on which an array of marks has been printed.

The width of the strip can be compared with the scale. The actual clearance is shown alongside the mark which most nearly corresponds to the width. For greater accuracy the clearance may be interpolated between the two most nearly comparable scale marks.

http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/how.html

Red (0.002" - 0.006")
D = 0.022"
W = 0.114"
T = 0.00333"

Green (0.001" - 0.003")
D = 0.018"
W = 0.085"
T = 0.00299"

Average = 0.00316" Oil Clearance

I also installed the connecting rod and checked piston to deck clearance.
In some places 0.001", other places about 0.003". I still plan on running the 0.027" Head Gasket for 0.028" - 0.030" P2H Clearance. Perfect!
 

bob58o

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Bob, just curious, what do you plan on using this engine on? Kart? Mini Bike?

Minibike.
MB200-2
19" Tires.
I'm thinking Torque Converter, 7" Driven Pulley, 8T Front Sprocket, 50T Rear Sprocket, 19" Tires.
15:1 in Low Gear
7:1 in High Gear
36mph at 4500 PRM
48mph at 6000 RPM

This build is supposed to be something I can take to the offroad park.
Hopefully it will treat me nicer than the last minibike with no suspension and smaller tires.
 

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bob58o

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Dorman M8-1.25 Exhaust Manifold Stud Kit.
Dorman 03411
You get 10 studs and nuts for $8

First stud I grabbed was f’d.
The rest were fine.
Not sure how that stud ends up in a package on the shelf.

Permanent locktite on the threads in the block.
Finger tight on the studs.
Then 20 lb ft on the nuts.

Says takes 24hrs to fully cure.
10 hrs to go.
 

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bob58o

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So the crank bearing in the case didn't pass my inspection. Sounded f'd up and didn't turn smoothly.

I have options for the replacement....

Bearing, Case, ABEC 3 C3. Steel Balls, These have more internal running clearance than the OEM bearings. Price is for one bearing. For all HP & modified engines.
ORS Brand, Made in Turkey
BEST CHOICE FOR MOST APPLICATIONS
Our Price: $12.99

Bearing, Case, ABEC 3 C3 (Japan). Steel Balls, These have more internal running clearance than the OEM bearings. Price is for one bearing. For all HP & modified engines.
Japan Made, Nachi or Koyo Brand
BEST CHOICE FOR MOST APPLICATIONS
Our Price: $15.99


Bearing, Case, ABEC 3 C4 Clearance. Steel Balls, These have more internal running clearance than the OEM bearings. Price is for one bearing. For all HP & modified engines.
Extra Loose bearings for stock type motors.
Our Price: $15.99

Bearing, Crankshaft (Block & Side Cover), Self Aligning, price is for one bearing
Our Price: $13.49

Bearing, Case, ABEC 5 super free spinning grade. Steel Balls, Higher Quality and less friction than OEM Bearings, Price is for one bearing. BEST BEARINGS FOR THE MONEY
Our Price: $31.99

Special Race - loose Free Spinning, These are OEM (Honda) bearings that have had the Balls and race ground for an extra .001" to .002" clearance. This helps to free up the crank, eliminate any bind, and spin free. Use for classes where aftermarket (C3, etc) bearings are not allowed. Use only in stock type classes, do not use in high HP outlaw and modified motors. Price is for one bearing
Our Price: $29.50



I got the Japanese C3, ABEC 3 Bearings. I hope the same ones are used for the case and the cover.?
 

bob58o

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This pic shows the piston @TDC.
You can see there is a little pop out. At least on one side.
First pic is focused on the pop out side. Shiny piston showing.
2nd pic is focus on the “in the hole” side. Shiny Cylinder wall showing.
 

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tinamcjittles

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so is it not properly faced? Seems like that could cause uneven pressure on the piston during combustion and push it against one side of the cylinder.... (I'm sure its negligible though)
 

bob58o

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so is it not properly faced? Seems like that could cause uneven pressure on the piston during combustion and push it against one side of the cylinder.... (I'm sure its negligible though)

No piston I have ever checked was the same in each positioned I measured.
It is going to rock inside the cylinder too. This one just happens to be closest to flush I ever had.:thumbsup:

---------- Post added at 05:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:53 PM ----------

That picture is like an optical illusion. My brain kept flipping the piston upside down and putting the arrow on the piston closest to me.

:sifone::p
 

tinamcjittles

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LOL I've learned so much following this thread, I'm really interested to see how accurate the simulator was to its real power numbers and RPM!
 

bob58o

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I don't know how to test that. Maybe I'll send this engine off to get dyno'd.
Not really expecting impressive numbers, but I guess 14HP out a 6.5HP engine is pretty good.
14HP for the amount of money I spend is not. I could probably have a 20+ HP engine 212cc engine. But I'm not looking for that on this build. You'll need lots of RPMs for 20+HP and only 212cc. 16 LB Ft of TQ I would find to be quite Impression, and probably unrealistic.

I know I posted a link somewhere for reasonable dyno testing prices, but the shipping would probably be high.Not sure how comfortable people would be using a non-billet / charging flywheel on their equipment.

If I ever wanted to swap the cam and carb, port the head, remove the electric start stuff, and toss a billet flywheel on there. I could have a decent HP 7500 RPM engine.

I think I said before, this is going to be my most expensive and least powerful engine yet.
 

bob58o

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No head gasket.
 

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Denny

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Bob, that is the same mini-bike I got the girls for Christmas except blue. The best deal was from Go-karts USA when I bought theirs. It is still sitting in the living room. It took us more time removing it from the shipping crate (bent up) than to assemble it. This summer I will be doing a review or it. So far I like what I see except for the upper shock mounts look weak in the rear. We'll see?


Denny
 

bob58o

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The -0.100” pushrods seem about right.
The marks on the lash caps look about centered.
 

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bob58o

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Have you considered making a dyno like Flynhibilys design I would like you to see you GAB making a dyno.

I have considered trying to make a dyno, but ultimately I would want something professional. And although it would be cool, I am getting kicked out of my buddy's garage - so I have no space for more projects at the moment.

I feel I would only need a dyno if I was building engines professionally.
Hopefully the simulator software will give me generalizations, which is all I really wanted.
 
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