Hemi Build #3 -Boogie Woogie Woogie

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bob58o

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Well I was hoping by the time I finished the engine I would have found a used Trailmaster MB200-2 for sale. I have not. I guess I will be buying new.

Now what am going to do with a new 196cc Clone Take off engine????
Part it out and sell it on eBay?
 

Denny

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Bob, so far it seems like a pretty solid engine. I would break in the engine and then remove the governor and do a durability test with it. It also has a lighting coil on it which if memory serves me BBQ Joe swapped over to a non hemi predator. Ask him---- never mind he ain't here no more! :mad2:


Denny
 

bob58o

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I guess the next logical step would be to put the carb back on, hook up the tank and pump, hook up the battery and the clone key box.

Let's see if this battery will start the engine.
Let's see if the engine runs being fed by the pump.
Let's see what RPM gives me 12 Volts.
Last time I think my tach was reading about 4k when the voltmeter said 12 (which doesn't seem right to me).

Maybe I'll set engine idle speed and choose my TAV engagement springs based on the output voltage i like.

I can't wait for the first time I see my intake frost up all icey like.
That's where the extra fuel goes. It evaporates in the intake, Freezing the intake pipe, condensing the air, making limitless power with my air filter providing limitless flow.
 

bob58o

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Didn't put the carb on, but I hooked up the wires for the key box and tested with my car battery. Wiring was correct. Then I ran the jumper cables from the not-so-little battery and it cranked over fine.

It sounds so wonderful cranking over with the open exhaust and no carb on the end of the manifold. But enough experimenting in the back seat of a car. LOL

It is raining. I'm going to stop by my buddy's house and borrow the garage for an hour.
I'm willing to attempt to crank the engine in back of my car (no spark, no gas), but not willing to start and run it in there.

---------- Post added at 02:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:25 PM ----------

This is kinda exciting. At least for me. The culmination of the Boogie Woogie Build.
The Charging System, The Battery, The Fuel Pump, The Manifold, The Carb, The Head, The Compression, The Cam...

The exhaust will have to wait until I have a bike to see what fits, but I have an idea of what might work and have parts to start it.

Mid and Open Throttle jetting will have to wait as well. Either for Dyno tuning, or a road trip somewhere without stop signs every block.
 

bob58o

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Turn down the bass and up the treble.
Can you hear the rattle / ping?

Engine knock?
Not sure I ever head detonation, but this rattle/pinging noise sounds like what I expected detonating to sound like.

My car speakers are the best I have. I can hear it when listening on good speakers when I can adjust the bass and treble.

If nothing else, it breathes fire.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPF-dc1rpbw&feature=youtu.be
 

Whitetrashrocker

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Have you thought about the adjustable coil bracket from Vegas carts?

Then you could easily adjust the timing.

Sorry I can't hear anything on my phone.

Most of the time "ping" comes while under load. Unless you have the timing real advanced and it's doing it at idle...
 

bob58o

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Have you thought about the adjustable coil bracket from Vegas carts?

Then you could easily adjust the timing.

Sorry I can't hear anything on my phone.

Most of the time "ping" comes while under load. Unless you have the timing real advanced and it's doing it at idle...

My timing should be at 25 - 26 degrees BTDC.
I'll look at the spark plug to see if it shows any signs of detonation.
I didn't hear anything before, but this time I was inside a garage and perhaps the acoustics were better than in my parking lot.

Does the adjustable bracket work on both small and big blocks?
And how about with a Starter Ring Gear on the Flywheel?
 

Whitetrashrocker

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On their website it doesn't specify which engine it fits. Assuming it's 212 clones and other similar small blocks. I had to "modify" the one I got to fit on a bigblock.

I have no idea if it clears a ring gear. You can look in my dingo thread for the pics I took of it and you might be able to see if a ring gear would clear or not.

Did you make timing marks on your flywheel? I would. Set at TDC and make a mark where you can see and peraps next to where a natural pointer is. Like a shroud edge....
Then just GAB some math to find distance of diameter to degrees and mark the flywheel.

This would be a good idea to do in the long run for ease of tuning later down the road.

---------- Post added at 09:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:21 PM ----------

Upon reviewing my pics.... I think it will clear a ring gear.
 

bob58o

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On their website it doesn't specify which engine it fits. Assuming it's 212 clones and other similar small blocks. I had to "modify" the one I got to fit on a bigblock.

I have no idea if it clears a ring gear. You can look in my dingo thread for the pics I took of it and you might be able to see if a ring gear would clear or not.

Did you make timing marks on your flywheel? I would. Set at TDC and make a mark where you can see and peraps next to where a natural pointer is. Like a shroud edge....
Then just GAB some math to find distance of diameter to degrees and mark the flywheel.

This would be a good idea to do in the long run for ease of tuning later down the road.

Joe 405 did the GAB (IIRC) for some sort of adjustable timing bracket. In order to find degrees per arc length.

170mm diameter flywheel = 534.1 mm circumference

360 degrees / 534.1 =
0.673 degrees per mm.

534.1 / 360 = 1.48mm per degree

That would be arc length at the edge of the flywheel.
I think I'd have to use arc length at the bracket bolts if that is where the adjustment is.
 

bob58o

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Plug after a short bit of run time.
BP6ES
 

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bob58o

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There is something down in there.
And a few specs on the grounding electrode.

I don't really think that looks like detonation to me, but I'm not even a little bit sure.
I think the plug looks ok? Maybe a bit cold, but the engine didn't even get a chance to warm up really. I was afraid of the sound and shut it down. Didn't even test the voltage.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrHdo-v9mRA
 

bob58o

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So I guess the next thing to do is try to locate the rattle.

Take the Valve Cover off. AGAIN!
Check and make sure everything is hunky-dory in there.

Take off the fan shroud and make sure nothing is loose inside there.

Drain the oil, take off the side cover, make sure nothing is loose inside there. Check the rod bolts, just to be sure.

Make sure the carb is tight and not rattling against the blower housing or top plate

Bolt the engine to the buggy frame (or something less rigid and less cracked).

If I can't find an issue, then I can try with 100 octane and see if it goes away.
If that fixes it, I have options. Retard Timing, Thicker Head Gasket, or keep with 100 octane. I'll probably just use 100 octane, instead of losing power.

If the 100 octane doesn't help, then maybe I have to take the head off and make sure nothing fell into the intake manifold while I had the carb off???



This is how I troubleshoot all my issues. I hope the ping was rain against the garage siding? Or the fuel return trickling back into the tank. LOL
 

TT540

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Doubt it is detonation because it is at idle and not under any load. And your timing should not be that far off and the thing still crank.

I think it would help a ton to run it outside without all the reverberation. Any make sure it is somehow secure to the table that it is sitting on if only a tie down strap. Then zip tie off those other things that where bouncing around. It would also be good if you could extend the exhaust to get that noise away. Even with something temporary like a 6' section of PVC supported on a chair.

Another helper would be a long screw driver that you would use as a stethoscope. You shove the handle end against your ear and the metal against the engine. ;)
 
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