Help with drills!

[skimf]

hi,
i am hoping to make a go kart and i have bought a mig welder and an angle grinder. Obviously i need a drill to drill holes through the metal for the engine mount and the pillow block bearings etc. My Dad does have a 14.4v drill but im not sure of the wattage, would this be cabable of drilling smoothly through metal, bearing in mind the holes might need to be 10-20mm? Also, i have heard that metal drill bits need sharpening often and that you need a bench grinder for this! Is this neccessary or can i get away without one? I thought i was done buying tools but maybe not.........
Thanks for your help!!!

Update: Just found a 400w black and decker corded drill in the shed, just looked it up and some people say you want even more watts than that for big holes??!!

 

[Poboy kartman]

Do yourself a favor and get a corded drill and a unibit. Fill out a profile location so we don't waste time talking about stuff unavailable in your area.

A cheap titanium coated drill bit should drill about a hundred holes when used properly, then just buy a new one. Sharpening twist drills on a bench grinder is easier said than done.

I don't have that problem because I have a Drill Doctor.

 

[skimf]

Do yourself a favor and get a corded drill and a unibit. Fill out a profile location so we don't waste time talking about stuff unavailable in your area.

A cheap titanium coated drill bit should drill about a hundred holes when used properly, then just buy a new one. Sharpening twist drills on a bench grinder is easier said than done.

I don't have that problem because I have a Drill Doctor.

Hi thanks for that, i'm thinking maybe a 750 watt corded drill, would that be enough, if not there is a 1000w one.

I'll fill out my profile now!!

 

[ML-TOYS]

Its not just the size of the drill, there is also alot to do with drilling speed and lubrication.
If you drill a 1/2 inh hole at full speed of a 5000 rpm drill you will burn it up.

 

[Muddy]

If your are drilling through metal like 3/8 inch or less any decent drill and bit will do but when you get into thicker metal you will start needing to lubricate the bit or it will heat up and become weak. Which in turn will give you either a warped or broken bit

 

[mo841]

Just remember, the bigger the drill bit, the slower you want it to spin. Use some type of cutting oil or coolant also, that will make the bit last alot longer. 1/2 holes and up you wanna spin the bit to where the flutes can barely be seen individually (500 rpm and slower). Obviously the more amps the better but you can get by with a weaker drill it just take longer. Remember to step your holes up to size. You wouldn't wanna just try to plow a 1/2" bit through a pc of steel without any starter hole.you would wanna start with maybe a 3/16 then maybe a 3/8 then a 1/2 inch. Hope this helps.

 

[OzFab]

Do yourself a favour, find yourself something like this...

The cordless is ok for thin metal & most "budget" corded drills don't like slow speeds (I burned out a drill trying to drill 1/2" holes); with the above drill, you have more stability (meaning more accuracy) & the ability to select multiple speeds...

 

[ML-TOYS]

Thats what i have, a tabletop drill press

 

[skimf]

Do yourself a favour, find yourself something like this...

The cordless is ok for thin metal & most "budget" corded drills don't like slow speeds (I burned out a drill trying to drill 1/2" holes); with the above drill, you have more stability (meaning more accuracy) & the ability to select multiple speeds...

Thanks for the info,
i'll have a think about a pillar drill thing, if i did get one would it be worth getting a bench grinder to sharpen the bits or would it be better to just keep buying new bits, also, can u use bench grinders to grind down metal bars and stuff like you can with an angle grinder?
Thanks

 

[mo841]

If you want to sharpen drills its much easyer to use a bench belt sander than it is a bench grinder. I resharpen drills all the time at work because my drills are pretty expensive and its convenient. There is probably a million videos on you tube on how to do it. With a lil bit of practice you will get it. Get one that has the belt at a 90° angle to make things easier. You can also use it to debur stock.

 

[porsche930dude]

If you dont even have a good drill you certainly dont need a drill press. If you are going to buy one get a half inch drill that way you can do everything. a smaller 3/8 chuck drill is nice to have they are lighter and faster which is nice for the smaller bits. you can certainly sharpen bits with an angle grinder it just takes a bit more skill. Bench grinders are extremely handy. Have a grinder on one side and a wire wheel on the other. I use mine almost as much as the angle grinder.

 

[machinist@large]

Pretty much all of the above suggestions can probably get the job done; the question is how many holes/how often. If you're just starting to dabble, say on a kart, a corded drill motor with a chuck capacity of 1/2"/12+mm capacity, variable speed up to 500 to 750 RPM and at least 750 watts output will get you started. A good grade of penetrating oil in an aerosol can make's a good down and dirty cutting fluid/ lubricant. And for a first time project, it'll be much easier for you to just budget for extra bits in the sizes you actually need to use. As you progress onward, you can then study the fine art of sharpening drill bits.

 

[Poboy kartman]

If you dont even have a good drill you certainly dont need a drill press. If you are going to buy one get a half inch drill that way you can do everything. a smaller 3/8 chuck drill is nice to have they are lighter and faster which is nice for the smaller bits. you can certainly sharpen bits with an angle grinder it just takes a bit more skill. Bench grinders are extremely handy. Have a grinder on one side and a wire wheel on the other. I use mine almost as much as the angle grinder.

I have two bench grinders on stands...(couldn't have them any other way) ...one with grinding wheels, one with a wire brush on one side, the other side a buffing pad.

And...as I said earlier, and reinforced here...corded drill and cheap titanium coated drill index....and a UNIBIT!!!!

Use a Unibit one time...and you'll never want to be without one!

EDIT: Oh...and I have a drill press...but it seriously is one of my least used tools.

 

[skimf]

so is the general opinion that a pillar drill is a useful thing to have but not neccessary for a first project and that its better to just get a 750 watt + corded drill?
And that bench grinders are generally useful to have around but not necessary and its quite hard to sharpen bits with them?
if i did get a corded drill i have found either this one:
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-chd850-hammer-drill/

or this one:
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-con1200-contractor-hammer-drill/

Would the first one be ok or would it be better to fork out on the second?
Also, with both of those drills it says they have a keyed chuck, what is this, is there any particular advantage and do i have to use special keyed drill bits?

Finally, If i was to get a bench grinder, what are the advantages compared to just an angle grinder, is it easier to smooth edges with etc and is it worth getting one just for general use?

Sorry to appear ignorant about all this stuff, i'm pretty much a complete begginer!
this go kart will be my first major project other than a leaf blower hovercraft!

Thanks for all your help everyone!


EDIT i'll have a look at unibits too!

SECOND edit: just looked up keyed chucks, would i be right in saying that it just means you need a special tool to change the bit?

 

[Poboy kartman]

Up until a few years ago, all drill chucks were keyed...and any keyed drill comes with one. No special bits required, possible advantage: being able to really crank down on a bit...Real life experience...keyless is way faster and easiest and perfectly fine 95% of the time.

 

[OzFab]

A bench grinder is useful for certain tasks but, an angle grinder is more convenient & easier for the majority of tasks you will perform; I have both &, by comparison, I use the bench grinder very little...

 

[machinist@large]

so is the general opinion that a pillar drill is a useful thing to have but not neccessary for a first project and that its better to just get a 750 watt + corded drill?
And that bench grinders are generally useful to have around but not necessary and its quite hard to sharpen bits with them?
if i did get a corded drill i have found either this one:
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-chd850-hammer-drill/

or this one:
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-con1200-contractor-hammer-drill/

Would the first one be ok or would it be better to fork out on the second?
Also, with both of those drills it says they have a keyed chuck, what is this, is there any particular advantage and do i have to use special keyed drill bits?

Finally, If i was to get a bench grinder, what are the advantages compared to just an angle grinder, is it easier to smooth edges with etc and is it worth getting one just for general use?

Sorry to appear ignorant about all this stuff, i'm pretty much a complete begginer!
this go kart will be my first major project other than a leaf blower hovercraft!

Thanks for all your help everyone!


EDIT i'll have a look at unibits too!

SECOND edit: just looked up keyed chucks, would i be right in saying that it just means you need a special tool to change the bit?

While there is a lot of overlap between angle and bench grinders use wise, they are actually two very different tools with their own niche. If you're starting out to build a kart, start with an angle grinder due to the overall versatility; a bench grinder is a precision tool that, while handy, the lack of one will not break a first time kart build. If you have only a wish for a budget, don't get distracted by shiny toy's. If this hobby sticks, you'll have plenty of time to add to your tool kit.

Up until a few years ago, all drill chucks were keyed...and any keyed drill comes with one. No special bits required, possible advantage: being able to really crank down on a bit...Real life experience...keyless is way faster and easiest and perfectly fine 95% of the time.

A quality keyless chuck drilling steel is closer to 80/85%; and since bargain tools include bargain components, many times even a bargain keyed chuck may very well be a better choice. The problem is that the forum is global; the odds of anyone doing any type of quality side by side shoot out is pretty slim. How to answer? Good question.....

 

[mo841]

If you have to pick between a bench grinder or angle grinder, go with the angle grinder. You can debur, wire wheel, cutting wheel, and grind away with an angle grinder. Sharpening drills isnt that hard to do on a bench grinder although I prefer a belt sander. Grinding a drill on a angle grinder would prove to be quite difficult. If you buy cheep drills I would just get a few that are the same size that you will most likely be useing and some cutting oil. I wouldn't buy a bench grinder just to sharpen drills with. Either of them drills will do IMO just take it easy.

 

[porsche930dude]

see the splined teeth on the drills you linked to those splines are used to tighten down the drill bit with the special tool that the drill comes with. keyless chucks you just tighten with youre hand as the drill is turning. Splined chucks are almost always forund on the larger drills because you can get them much tighter on the bit. which is important for big bits. keyed chucks take normal drill bits. The ones you linked to are hammer drills. you dont need that option unless you are drilling concrete. they cost more than standard drills too.

 

[skimf]

Thanks to everyone who replied!
what i'll do is just get an 850w corded drill and bear the pillar drill and bench grinder/belt sander in mind for future projects.