Help with Carter wheel setup

[tburgerjr]

Hello,

I found a good price Carter go Kart on market place and I'm wanting to redo it for my son to use. I stripped everything down and bought a Predator 212 engine to put back on it when we are done, I also got a new clutch and 420 chain setup for it as well. I got all the way to doing the tire portion and I ordered new tires and new 6" split rims. Everything was going fine, until the hubs were totally shot on the old ones. I investigated that and learned that the Carters have different bolt patterns than the 4 on 3.5" split wheels that I already bought. So I think what I want to do is convert it to the 4x3.5" stuff I already ordered and have and ditch the proprietary stuff. I have sifted through BMI trying to find what I think I need but to no avail. I was hoping maybe I could get some direction before I buy one of everything and see what fits. I took some pictures of the cart the way it is now. They are like straight 5/8" spindles.

These are the split rims I bought:
6" x 3-1/8" Split Wheel (KAZ8004-30) These are 4x3.5" with a 1 3/4" center hole
6" x 4-1/2" Split Wheel (KAZ8005) These have a 4x3.5 pattern and have a 2" diameter center hole

I'm assuming I'm going to need a new sprocket and brake drum setup as well, but those seem universal enough. I just have no idea where or what 5/8" style, theres no keyway or anything, hubs that will click all this together.

Is there anyone who has done this, or is it not as hard as I'm making it out to be?

 

[Hellion]

What do you mean the hubs were totally shot? It's usually the bearings that "go" and those are easily popped out and replaced. The bearings are an expendable item.

Your kart is a one-wheel-peel so there will be no "keyway" to worry about, the sprocket is mounted to the hub.

EDIT: Don't think that you need to replace "everything" just because it is weathered, faded or [good heavens!] rusty. Just grind off the rust, polish the oxidation, replace the out of spec parts and drive on. That rusty sprocket looks good enough to use for now. Use a high speed wire wheel or a 200-400 grit flap disc to remove the rust and hit it with some Krylon, Rustoleum or the cheapest rattle can enamel you can find.

 

[Hellion]

EDITED: What is the "bolt pattern" on the OEM wheel hubs? Just curious but if they are shot, they are shot.

Measuring-Bolt-Patterns.jpg

You can always buy brand new hubs and wheels as long as they take bearings that are 1 3/8" OD x 5/8" ID to fit your axles or spindles.

I think this is your kart [or one very much like it]:

https://www.bmikarts.com/PDF/Carter-Bros/Model-1205-3017/1205-3017.pdf

 

[tburgerjr]

Hey thanks for the reply, sorry about the delay. I spent the last few hours with a torch getting the hubs off the tires lol. I managed to get them all off, I did already have new bearings for them because that's what I wanted to do first, but they looked like the attached picture when I started and everything was seized up. I did get them all free tho and just stripped one a little bit I think I can fix it. Now I need to figure out the wheels. The internet told me it is a 4 on 3-3/32" bolt pattern. But honestly it's so close to fitting I might just waller them out a little bit and make them fit because I have no idea where to find that pattern for them.

 

[Denny]

We need better pictures than that.

 

[tburgerjr]

Sorry that was the old rim and tire i just wrestled with, if i put the new wheel on there can see how close it is. I guess i could oblong the whole that are in there to fit, or just drill new holes in the right spot

 

[Hellion]

You should have joined the forum and asked questions before making any purchase. Instead you guessed and hoped that the new wheels would fit the old hubs. I would not oblong the holes in the wheel halves and *force it to fit*...

I would rotate the hub 45° and put the hub's 4 holes over undrilled sheet metal on the wheels, then drill. You need to be very precise if there is any play between the hub and the center hole of the wheels. It looks like the old hub and the new wheels are a tight fit(?). I hope so. The extra 4 holes you will drill won't look pretty but it does not matter because the air is held by the inner tube.

...with a torch getting the hubs off the tires lol

Are you laughing because you're a joker? Did you mean getting the hubs off the wheels?

The internet told me it is a 4 on 3-3/32" bolt pattern...

The internet is full of idiots and they all have a voice, usually free of charge [YouTube and social media]...
Why would you not confirm this with a ruler or tape measure? I know that ship has already sailed and already hit an iceberg but I provided an info-graphic in post #3.



Red 1: Is that dark spot just rust or is that a hole? If it's just rust, it can be ground off and the whole wheel can be primered and painted. If it's a hole and not too severe it might be able to be welded up or patched with JB Weld, etc.

Yellow 2: The rim can be fixed [bent back] with a vise grip or an adjustable wrench.

Blue 3: Douse the bearing with Blaster, WD-40, Liquid Wrench, etc and tap the bearing out from the other side of the hub with a hammer and a long 1/4" punch or similar. Punch on the very edge of the bearing at the point of the arrow [the bearing race] where it is the strongest. Clean the area where the bearing was, clean everything and press in a new bearing.

Those are two-piece wheels and can be pretty ratty but still work. They only need to be structurally sound so they don't fall apart. The inner tube is the part that holds the air. Just putting this info out there if you're on an extreme budget...

 

[Hellion]

Your drive sprocket looks huge (I think I counted 70+ teeth) so it cannot be the 54T sprocket on the 1205 kart in post #3. It has to be something like the Carter 2405 KX https://www.eccarburetors.com/assets/images/Carter-Bros-2405-3415-go-kart-Parts-List.pdf

More photos would be nice especially to confirm what kart you have, and because we are not there with you to see everything you have and the condition of the parts.

 

[Hellion]

I would rotate the hub 45° and put the hub's 4 holes over undrilled sheet metal on the wheels, then drill.

Rotate the hub til the holes are over solid metal, mark with a Sharpie and drill. The yellow arrow appears to be pointing to a remnant of the old bearing, the bearing race [the outer part of the bearing]. If that is the case, then drive it out with a pin punch from the other side. To do it right without destroying the hub, tap it at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock around and around, tapping lightly, until it emerges from the hub.

Illustrated: