Help on sourcing parts

[Mcdizzle83]

I recently bought an old yerf dog go kart (model 2303 I believe) and I'm having trouble sourcing correct parts.

The motor included was not stock, it's a Briggs 950 series. I'll show pictures below showing the problem.

Once I found the model with internet searches I was able to source what I thought was the right clutch. Turns out the clutch pulley doesn't line up with the torque converter pulley and I suspect it's due to the motor not having a long enough output shaft. Has anyone else had an issue like this and have any knowledge on how to get it lined up correctly?

You can see on the last picture the output shaft is short compared to the clutch.

 

[firemanjim]

Can you post pics of the way the engine is mounted? Clutches look like they're not parralell either....
Be patient.... Help is on the way

 

[Mcdizzle83]

Can you post pics of the way the engine is mounted? Clutches look like they're not parralell either....
Be patient.... Help is on the way

It wasn't actually bolted down, just mocked up. The engine isn't bolted in place either, so it looks off, but once bolted it will be parallel, just not in line.

 

[KartFab]

two options

1) buy some washers with a 3/4" inner diameter, space the drive unit out to match the driven unit
2) remove the driven unit (the big pulley), and remove the driven unit's jackshaft sprocket (the small sprocket). Next, reinstall the driven unit, and put the jackshaft sprocket on the end of the jackshaft. Next, move the axle sprocket over to line up with the jackshaft sprocket.


I did #2 when installing a predator 212cc on that same model.

 

[TT540]

Are either the engine or the jackshaft holes elongated to allow for them to shift left or right?

You might have to move the axle sprocket to make it all work out. So go ahead and spray it with some penetrating oil.

I ended up having to shim my engines pulley. with two very thin washers to get that perfect belt alignment. So that is an option, but you problem is much much too off for that. Anywho, it's an option if you get clos but miss every so slightly. I can get you those part numbers if you are unable to source some. Got mine through FastnAll for cents.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

That gold ring in the driver's pulley groove is a spacer. The sheaves can't close with it there; I'm pretty sure it's supposed to go between the engine and driver when using the inboard sprocket setup you have.

Whether or not the output shaft has adequate length is another issue, although it looks like it's probably alright. I have a clone TAV30 driver right here and the key in the outer (weight-side) sheave stops about 7/8" from the outer end.

 

[Mcdizzle83]

If I space the clutch out to match the other pulley, I'm left with about 3/8" left on the shaft for the clutch, making it necessary to run a bolt longer than I'm comfortable with.

Switching the chain and belt drives on their shafts is possible I think, but the axle has spring clips to retain "center" for the sprocket. If I move it over, will there be enough tension in the set bolts to hold it in place? I would have to omit the spring clips if the sprocket is moved because there's no groves on the axle for them.

The Jack shaft does not adjust left to right, only forward as backward.

Also, will the torque converter pulley operate correctly if the sprocket is in the outside of the mechanism?

 

[KartFab]

I have no idea what you are talking about with spring clips but here is a video of it in action with option #2. Option #1 is definitely doable, just put blue locktite on the PTO shaft bolt and impact it on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wHuNm3yzglA

The first post i ever made on this forum was about that kart too i think. Heres a pic i had of it after i chose option #2

 

[Mcdizzle83]

I have no idea what you are talking about with spring clips but here is a video of it in action with option #2. Option #1 is definitely doable, just put blue locktite on the PTO shaft bolt and impact it on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wHuNm3yzglA

The first post i ever made on this forum was about that kart too i think. Heres a pic i had of it after i chose option #2

The circular spring clips that holds the sprocket in place.

 

[Nosandwich]

Split rings.

 

[TT540]

When I slid my axle sprocket over, I deleted one clip. Kept the other. I then drilled into the axle a little where the set screw goes in. This has kept it for about 5 uses of 30 minutes each so far. There is not much lateral force if you get that chain straight.

---------- Post added at 07:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:44 PM ----------

And I always thought that bronze spacer bushing was for the belt to ride on when idling. My Chinese driver pulley does not have one.

 

[Mcdizzle83]

So swapping the torque converter and sprocket did the trick.

Now I have to move the axle sprocket over and reattach without removing it. Previous owner welded 4 bolt hubs to the axle and the OD of the hubs are larger than the components attached to the axle.

One question. The clutch still overhangs the motor output shaft by about 1/2" will there be any danger in attaching the clutch like that? I have threaded rod I plan on cutting to length and using as the bolt.

 

[Joe-405]

Put the bronze spacer back where it was the first time. It keeps the belt from riding up the pulley to far and also as said prior to let it slip at idle properly.

And I’m sure you know this but your driver is installed wrong in above post. Your missing half of it somewhere.

 

[Mcdizzle83]

Put the bronze spacer back where it was the first time. It keeps the belt from riding up the pulley to far and also as said prior to let it slip at idle properly.

And I’m sure you know this but your driver is installed wrong in above post. Your missing half of it somewhere.

What am I missing? That's all that was supplied with the cart. The spacer is in the right place, under the belt.

 

[Joe-405]

Your very first post it was completely correct. In your last post with pics it’s missing the plate that the belt rides on. You are not supposed to see the springs on a driver ever. The driver could be installed backwards also. But you are still for sure missing parts.

 

[firemanjim]

In post #12's pics, you did that wrong. Joe is correct. Look at your first pics. Do you see the difference? You had it right the first time. Somewhere along the line while trying to fix your issue, you got the driver put back together all discombobulated. .....
With the way it is in the last pics, you should have half of the driver clutch sitting around somewhere.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Compare:

 

[firemanjim]

Oh duh, you forgot the inner weight cover / other half of sheave assembly. .., I can see the weight and spring.... LoL

 

[Mcdizzle83]

its been fixed, it was only mocked up for purposes of belt alignment and was only flipped backwards.

problem I'm having now is the sprocket attached to the axle is rusted to the axle. hammers, and air tools have done nothing to budge it. its soaking in penetrating oil for now in hopes that will help get things moving.

what do you experts use to break something like this free?

Previous owner has welded extensions to the rear axle, increasing the OD. so, if i cant move the sprocket over to align it properly, I may have to purchase a new axle and cut the other one into pieces to remove and reuse the old components.

 

[mckutzy]

Check to see if it has been welded on first, maybe the welds ground off...

Heat.... Need heat... Polish the ends of the shaft to allow the sprocket easily move... Remove all bolts and snap rings.. While heating the hub rub a candle stub in the joint... The paraffin helps to lubricate the joint and break free the hold...
Keep the torch moving... Check to see if it budged a bit with a soft hammer...