Help me fix this mess.

Mccartercar

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Well, I guess you "nailed it" when you named this thread :huh:

I'd first evaluate the rear axle ta see if it's even worth trying to save (bent, beat up, keyway damaged etc.)
...if it's too "far gone" ya can usually get a brand new one for under $50.00 :cheers2:

If your gonna try-n-save it, you'll probably have to "split" them bearing races (& anything else that's stuck & no longer usable) ta get 'em off) :thumbsup:
...just use a cut off tool (or hack saw if possible) to cut thru one side (without damaging the axle underneath) & then, gently pry it off ;)
Ok, I cut it off. I see now the part with the threaded holes is one unit with the bearing. And I had to cut the retaining bracket to get it off. Im going to take the axle somewhere to see if I can get the rest pressed or taken off professionally, lol. If I get the axle clean and its straight my next step is to find replacement bearings and that bracket. Ill have to replace the braking system so maybe just go with hydraulic and get a disc along with the new axle sprocket? Im still working it out.
 

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ONE-EYE

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Ok, I cut it off. I see now the part with the threaded holes is one unit with the bearing. And I had to cut the retaining bracket to get it off. Im going to take the axle somewhere to see if I can get the rest pressed or taken off professionally, lol. If I get the axle clean and its straight my next step is to find replacement bearings and that bracket. Ill have to replace the braking system so maybe just go with hydraulic and get a disc along with the new axle sprocket? Im still working it out.
You're going to take it somewhere? Heck after you do that and buy the rest of the parts, you might as well just get a full kit for $150 from bmi karts. You get an axle, 54T sprocket, a drum or disk brake, extra flanges for welding if you need to, both bearings, end nuts, and 4 axle clamps (although I'd recommend using double split clamps instead. Madprofessor taught me about the burrs the single screw in ones can put in your axle). You might come out cheaper that way tho and definitely less frustration...
 

Mccartercar

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You're going to take it somewhere? Heck after you do that and buy the rest of the parts, you might as well just get a full kit for $150 from bmi karts. You get an axle, 54T sprocket, a drum or disk brake, extra flanges for welding if you need to, both bearings, end nuts, and 4 axle clamps (although I'd recommend using double split clamps instead. Madprofessor taught me about the burrs the single screw in ones can put in your axle). You might come out cheaper that way tho and definitely less frustration...
I meant take the axle somewhere and get the bearings and sprocket pressed off. Most places I checked out today said it was too long but there is a place farther out ill go to tomorrow and have them do it. I got one side off but the sprocket is very stuck. I reigned down a 3 pound sledge on it andit wouldnt budge even after heating.
 

Mccartercar

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You're going to take it somewhere? Heck after you do that and buy the rest of the parts, you might as well just get a full kit for $150 from bmi karts. You get an axle, 54T sprocket, a drum or disk brake, extra flanges for welding if you need to, both bearings, end nuts, and 4 axle clamps (although I'd recommend using double split clamps instead. Madprofessor taught me about the burrs the single screw in ones can put in your axle). You might come out cheaper that way tho and definitely less frustration...
I will check out this route though ro make sure everything simply works without anymore frustration.
 

Mccartercar

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You're going to take it somewhere? Heck after you do that and buy the rest of the parts, you might as well just get a full kit for $150 from bmi karts. You get an axle, 54T sprocket, a drum or disk brake, extra flanges for welding if you need to, both bearings, end nuts, and 4 axle clamps (although I'd recommend using double split clamps instead. Madprofessor taught me about the burrs the single screw in ones can put in your axle). You might come out cheaper that way tho and definitely less frustration...
Hey man, I grew up in Lake City so hello from a fellow Tennessean, just not a Vol fan lol. After mulling it over and assesing the situation I bought a live axle kit from bmi. All the time and hassle and money here and there is adding up and its cheaper and so much better this way. It will be much easier this way. Thank you for that excellent tip.
 

Mccartercar

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I have another issue while Im at it. Im not sure how large that 54t sprocket is but I know the flanges can be used to make more room. Thats fine and all but this crack in this frame can just go away and make way more room for a chain guard and sprocket guard.

My plan is to cut off the small stretch of tube from the left of the back engine plate and basically turn it straight up so it attaches to the cross frame at rear. I think this will give better rigidity when the TC has a linear force. It seems this bigger motor needs to be supported more in its x axis . A picture for reference.
 

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madprofessor

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You're going to be really happy with that full kit when you slap it together in no time and have no further worries with the rear. Be able to move on to the other areas that need attention.
 

Mccartercar

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Ive gotten some parts in hand now and ive began mocking up alignments and clearances. I cut away the broken engine frame mount that ran horizontally and (horribly) welded in an old tire crank vertically to the top rear of the frame that make room for a few things. Once I find my final layout im adding and inch riser under the engine to give the TC cover room to go on. The tires are currently mounted backwards so no issue there. Im waiting on a few things yet but im happy with it so far. After I get it driving ill tear it back apart and clean and paint it and new tires.
 

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Mccartercar

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My solution to allowing a larger sprocket and supporting the engine better vertically.
 

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madprofessor

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I'm really uncomfortable with that big sprocket sitting way out there on that shaft supported only on one end. Don't want to be a Gloomy Gus, but I'd call that a recipe for failure.
 

Mccartercar

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Although, I was wondering at what torque number do you want a carrier bearing with support struts right beside the sprocket? I dont think im near close but if I go above 300cc, idk
 

madprofessor

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carrier bearing with support struts right beside the sprocket
With a solid steel 1" live axle like on my current kart, you could have several inches between a sprocket and either side of 2 bearings and not be able to bend or twist the axle. Take a look at pics below (paint and more unfinished) using 4 cast iron pillow block bearings on a 44" axle. Only a hotrodded 212 (the 15+ hp. wouldn't kick in until rpm's good and revved up), but it would take a big block's torque just fine. Of course it's always a good idea to move a sprocket or brake disc away from the center of the spread and closer to a bearing when feasible, but still....................
 

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Mccartercar

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Someone cut off my crankshaft before I got it. It reaches about halfway in my clutch. Not sure about extending it due to balance. I have to tap it and rethread it as I just pull the fee threads that were left out.
 

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Mccartercar

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It ran today. Sounds okay. It flooded out quick as I didnt clean the carb very well yet. My tank is nice and clean now thanks to the gravel from my driveway. Im really close besides waiting on my hydraulic brakes to show up. Other thoughts are changing out the steering for rack and pinion as I only welded a washer to pilot the steering for the time being. Im guessing it was a round track racer because they have the left A arm clocked higher than the right to have assymetric camber. I may try and move it back down to match the right. I got my chain on but I need a few more shims under the motor to get the slack just right. If I keep the motor I need to find an adequate exhaust that is more low profile to bring my seat back farther. After Im happy with the performance of everything Im going to tear it all down one more time and clean and paint everything. Might sell it after so I can make room for a new project.
 

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madprofessor

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Never extended a shaft on something before? Drill your shaft way deeper and tap it like you said, but also get a matching (3/4" ?) piece of shaft from something that's as long as what you're missing, mount it in a vise, thread and tap it all the way through. Use a grinder with a metal cutoff wheel to roughly score into it lengthwise all the way to make room for your shaft keystock to slide on through it.
Torque your (longer) shaft end bolt all the way down through it, then just run the bolt with its new piece of shaft into your motor shaft like any other day. No balance or alignment issues.
 

Mccartercar

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Never extended a shaft on something before? Drill your shaft way deeper and tap it like you said, but also get a matching (3/4" ?) piece of shaft from something that's as long as what you're missing, mount it in a vise, thread and tap it all the way through. Use a grinder with a metal cutoff wheel to roughly score into it lengthwise all the way to make room for your shaft keystock to slide on through it.
Torque your (longer) shaft end bolt all the way down through it, then just run the bolt with its new piece of shaft into your motor shaft like any other day. No balance or alignment issues.
Its 1" and I have an axle to do it with and it already has a keyway!. Is it ok to run it for a bit as is?
 
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