help getting old sproclet brake off
- Thread starter zenking12
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danssoslow
Member
Are there no bolts clamping the hubs against the axle? If not, look for set screws.
Hi,
please make some pictures, we can be of more help when we can see details of the problem
otherwise: as danssoslow said, first loose all nuts, bolts & set screws you find on the sprocket or sprockethub and on the brake rotor or brake rotor hub, that might be part of the problem.
then apply some penetrating oil, let it sit overnight, and try again.
No heat no tapping just yet
'sid
please make some pictures, we can be of more help when we can see details of the problem
otherwise: as danssoslow said, first loose all nuts, bolts & set screws you find on the sprocket or sprockethub and on the brake rotor or brake rotor hub, that might be part of the problem.
then apply some penetrating oil, let it sit overnight, and try again.
No heat no tapping just yet
'sid
zenking12
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Thanks guys I found two screws that were hidden under rust. I took them out and soaked them with liquid wrench over night. Will let ya know. This is my first build and I'm keeping the old parts I have from a bar stool racer. I'm having a hard time posting photos but will soon.
Thanks
Dan
Thanks
Dan
OzFab
Well-known member
OzFab
Well-known member
Before I do, let me explain the edit feature: At the bottom left corner of each of your posts you will see an edit button. When you click on it, it allows you to add content to the post so as not to create another post...
Now, at the top of the thread, you will see welcome (in black) venking12 (in blue). Below that you should see "private massages". Clicking on that will take you to anothe page. On the left hand side of that page you will see "Your Control Panel". Under the heading "settings & options" (third box down) you will see "Edit Options" (4th line down). Click on that to open all options, scroll down to "Messaging & Notifications" & tick the appropriate boxes. Don't forget to "Save Changes" at the bottom of the page...
Now, at the top of the thread, you will see welcome (in black) venking12 (in blue). Below that you should see "private massages". Clicking on that will take you to anothe page. On the left hand side of that page you will see "Your Control Panel". Under the heading "settings & options" (third box down) you will see "Edit Options" (4th line down). Click on that to open all options, scroll down to "Messaging & Notifications" & tick the appropriate boxes. Don't forget to "Save Changes" at the bottom of the page...
zenking12
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Oh man that's great thank you very much hopefully it will allow me to post more photos because I know we all like to see photos and navigate the site a little better please in the future if I post something wrong or there's a better way don't hesitate to tell me as I want to enjoy this site and post the correct way. Thanks again
mckutzy
Well-known member
Some of those parts are aluminum, they will come off easily. Just heat gently with a propane torch, untill its hot to touch. gently hit with a wood block or a lead hammer on the aluminum part( HIT WHERE IT WONT BREAK SOMETHING OFF and Gently).
The bearings go to town on them. Heat the inner race smite away. , goin to need to replace them by the looks of them. Polishing the shaft areas around the parts helps the parts come off easier aswell.
The bearings go to town on them. Heat the inner race smite away. , goin to need to replace them by the looks of them. Polishing the shaft areas around the parts helps the parts come off easier aswell.
zenking12
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got one side off.
So I got one side off. I just let it soak overnight with penetrating oil. Will do the same for the other side. I'm out of town for two days and will work on it when I get back.
Thanks for the help.
Dan
So I got one side off. I just let it soak overnight with penetrating oil. Will do the same for the other side. I'm out of town for two days and will work on it when I get back.
Thanks for the help.
Dan
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OzFab
Well-known member
No worries, will do
Trust me, if you have a sense of humour, you'll have loads of fun here
Sweet, now the difficult side
Here's another tip: If you can, tap the keys out from under the hubs; that will allow you to use a twisting motion to free things up
Get a longer pipe then your shaft, something that will slide over the shaft, then take a hammer and smack the living day light out of the pipe. until your part is free, Always works for me getting those silly rusted hubs off. that's if you can.
OzFab
Well-known member
Just one tiny detail left out there: Rest the end of the axle on a lump of wood so you don't damage the axle...
machinist@large
Active member
Be carefull, be very, very carefull...
The biggest thing is to take it easy; I had a couple of coworkers once who made way to much extra work for me when they did things the cave man way....
They were trying to open up a 90:1 worm gear reduction box because they thought it had bad bearings on the worm wheel/ output shaft. They didn't see any screws or bolts holding the side cover in place, so they (being the geniuses they were) assumed the case must be pressed together.
When the shops 6 ton compound mechanical arbor press wouldn't touch it, they got the really great idea to throw it in the shops 200 ton stamping press. (I was still in tool & die at the time). Roll it over, lower the ram a little, roll it over, lower the ram a little.... You get the idea.
When the side finally gave up, the entire shop heard it. That's when the
idiots finally figured out that the 1/2" wide piece of circular plastic on that side of the box wasn't a gasket of some kind, it was simply a trim piece to cover the 12" dia. by 1/8" thick snap ring that had held the side cover in place. I wish I had pictures, but this was back when a cheap digital camera was 2 to 3 times the price of a good film camera.
After the bosses read them the riot act, I got stuck with trying to pick up the pieces. Several hours on the phone showed that the only parts available were the bearings, seals, and the correct lube; new cost to replace the old unit was about $4,800.00 with an 8 to 10 week delivery.
After removing the snap ring, I was able to get the outer piece out of the case intact. It then became the hairiest braze welding job I've ever performed. Fortunately for me, the same thing that gave me some leeway was the same thing the first two couldn't seem to understand; the ability to adjust the preload on the bearings using shims.....
The last time I saw the machine was about 3 years ago, still running strong.....
Now, back to the scheduled thread....
The biggest thing is to take it easy; I had a couple of coworkers once who made way to much extra work for me when they did things the cave man way....
They were trying to open up a 90:1 worm gear reduction box because they thought it had bad bearings on the worm wheel/ output shaft. They didn't see any screws or bolts holding the side cover in place, so they (being the geniuses they were) assumed the case must be pressed together.
When the shops 6 ton compound mechanical arbor press wouldn't touch it, they got the really great idea to throw it in the shops 200 ton stamping press. (I was still in tool & die at the time). Roll it over, lower the ram a little, roll it over, lower the ram a little.... You get the idea.
When the side finally gave up, the entire shop heard it. That's when the
idiots finally figured out that the 1/2" wide piece of circular plastic on that side of the box wasn't a gasket of some kind, it was simply a trim piece to cover the 12" dia. by 1/8" thick snap ring that had held the side cover in place. I wish I had pictures, but this was back when a cheap digital camera was 2 to 3 times the price of a good film camera.After the bosses read them the riot act, I got stuck with trying to pick up the pieces. Several hours on the phone showed that the only parts available were the bearings, seals, and the correct lube; new cost to replace the old unit was about $4,800.00 with an 8 to 10 week delivery.
After removing the snap ring, I was able to get the outer piece out of the case intact. It then became the hairiest braze welding job I've ever performed. Fortunately for me, the same thing that gave me some leeway was the same thing the first two
couldn't seem to understand; the ability to adjust the preload on the bearings using shims.....The last time I saw the machine was about 3 years ago, still running strong.....
Now, back to the scheduled thread....
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