Hello from Portland, OR. New Project - Looking for advice

JimD

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Shouldn't need any shims. Just get yourself a 5/16-24 bolt, flat washer 1" in diameter with the 5/16 hole and a 5/16 lock washer. Cut the key down to 3/4 in length and put slight ramp on the key matching up with the taper of the keyway. Sand the key so it slides down the keyway easily. The crankshaft is 2.297" long and the clutch is 2.220 so that means the crankshaft is longer than the clutch because you want the pressure of the bolt hold the clutch on to be on the crankshaft NOT ON THE CLUTCH. The clutch you want to have the ability to float on the crankshaft. Why? Because the rear sprocket on a mini-bike or a go kart NEVER run true the wobble and you need the clutch to move on the crankshaft to it can try to stay align. This cut down on throwing the chain. And you don't run the chain tight have 1/2" to 3/4" of lift in the middle.

Tire sizes will determine clutch or t/c and where you plan on riding is another factor. If you want to ride in a parade you sure as heck don't want a clutch it will not make the first block of the parade you will have burned it up. Slow riding is definitely for a t/c they can take slow while a clutch is pedal to the metal with as few stops as possible. The attached picture is what we use on our t/c but it can be cut to length if needed to extend a crankshaft for alignment. You shouldn't need it but throwing this out there for the other boys that like to know stuff is available to fix a problem. Better than a bunch of holes in your motor mount plate. It is only good for a 3/4" crankshaft, never had a need to make on for the 5/8".
 

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BKrafty

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Max-Torque, all day. 10 tooth on clutch, 60 tooth on axle.
Dumb question here - do I keep the shaft key in place or remove completely before assembling?
 

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BKrafty

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Shouldn't need any shims. Just get yourself a 5/16-24 bolt, flat washer 1" in diameter with the 5/16 hole and a 5/16 lock washer. Cut the key down to 3/4 in length and put slight ramp on the key matching up with the taper of the keyway. Sand the key so it slides down the keyway easily. The crankshaft is 2.297" long and the clutch is 2.220 so that means the crankshaft is longer than the clutch because you want the pressure of the bolt hold the clutch on to be on the crankshaft NOT ON THE CLUTCH. The clutch you want to have the ability to float on the crankshaft. Why? Because the rear sprocket on a mini-bike or a go kart NEVER run true the wobble and you need the clutch to move on the crankshaft to it can try to stay align. This cut down on throwing the chain. And you don't run the chain tight have 1/2" to 3/4" of lift in the middle.

Tire sizes will determine clutch or t/c and where you plan on riding is another factor. If you want to ride in a parade you sure as heck don't want a clutch it will not make the first block of the parade you will have burned it up. Slow riding is definitely for a t/c they can take slow while a clutch is pedal to the metal with as few stops as possible. The attached picture is what we use on our t/c but it can be cut to length if needed to extend a crankshaft for alignment. You shouldn't need it but throwing this out there for the other boys that like to know stuff is available to fix a problem. Better than a bunch of holes in your motor mount plate. It is only good for a 3/4" crankshaft, never had a need to make on for the 5/8".
Jim - Just seeing this now. So, I do need to use the key, but I shave it down to make sure it's the right length - correct?
 

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JimD

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yes, putting the slope on the key on a grinding wheel to match up with the taper up of the keyway on the crank. When done the key length if around .625 to .700. The key cannot come out once you slide the clutch over it. Cannot not move towards the engine because of the taper and it cannot go forward towards the bolt and washer because the sleeve of the clutch is not broached with a keyway. The bolt and washer holds everything in place.
 

BKrafty

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yes, putting the slope on the key on a grinding wheel to match up with the taper up of the keyway on the crank. When done the key length if around .625 to .700. The key cannot come out once you slide the clutch over it. Cannot not move towards the engine because of the taper and it cannot go forward towards the bolt and washer because the sleeve of the clutch is not broached with a keyway. The bolt and washer holds everything in place.
Thank you for the guidance!
 

BKrafty

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Thank you all again for the guidance. I got the clutch in place and see now that my chain us smaller than the sprocket that is attached to the clutch. The teeth are too wide apart and the width of each tooth too large...Any suggestions on the size of the chain I have and the clutch part I should purchase? Thank you!
 

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BKrafty

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I was able to put everything together and it ran great! Then about 3 minutes into the test drive - I could hear this sound. Any thoughts? Did I burn up the clutch already?

Brian
 

pearl111

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I was able to put everything together and it ran great! Then about 3 minutes into the test drive - I could hear this sound. Any thoughts? Did I burn up the clutch already?

Brian
You need to oil the clutch here, spin tire oil a little more, and periodically when riding, about every 45 min. or so, if you hear that sound sooner, ....stop oil.
Take an oil can with you,......wherever you take the kart to ride. "Have fun"
 

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BKrafty

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You need to oil the clutch here, spin tire oil a little more, and periodically when riding, about every 45 min. or so, if you hear that sound sooner, ....stop oil.
Take an oil can with you,......wherever you take the kart to ride. "Have fun"
Thank you for the tip!
 

JimD

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The clutch you have in the picture is 10 tooth so I know it is for a 1/2" pitch chain like Master Hack indicated. So you need a 12 tooth clutch drum to fit the chain you have on the kart. easier to change the drum and sprocket to match the chain then to buy new chain and change the sprocket on the axle. I looked at the picture several times to see if I could see just what chain you had but only could see some lettering but I am sure it has #35 chain since the teeth on the clutch sprocket are not going down very far into the chain. All you need is a 12 tooth drum and a sprocket from a Max-Torque clutch. They are not interchangeable from other vendors --Comet or the china knock offs. Do you own a snap ring plyer? Give me a call and I will send you the drum for $10 to cover the shipping. The only thing better than that is if you have the 6 correct numbers for the lotto.
 

BKrafty

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The clutch you have in the picture is 10 tooth so I know it is for a 1/2" pitch chain like Master Hack indicated. So you need a 12 tooth clutch drum to fit the chain you have on the kart. easier to change the drum and sprocket to match the chain then to buy new chain and change the sprocket on the axle. I looked at the picture several times to see if I could see just what chain you had but only could see some lettering but I am sure it has #35 chain since the teeth on the clutch sprocket are not going down very far into the chain. All you need is a 12 tooth drum and a sprocket from a Max-Torque clutch. They are not interchangeable from other vendors --Comet or the china knock offs. Do you own a snap ring plyer? Give me a call and I will send you the drum for $10 to cover the shipping. The only thing better than that is if you have the 6 correct numbers for the lotto.
Jim - I appreciate the response and you are correct - I did need a #35 sprocket for the clutch. I've installed it and it's working well. Thanks again!
 

BKrafty

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You need to oil the clutch here, spin tire oil a little more, and periodically when riding, about every 45 min. or so, if you hear that sound sooner, ....stop oil.
Take an oil can with you,......wherever you take the kart to ride. "Have fun"
It worked perfectly!
 
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