Hello everyone! Im new and could really use alittle help lol

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bob58o

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Seems like you are close to knowing what you need.
(2) 1-5/8" OD, 5/8" ID bearings....
5/8" Jackshaft (how ever long you need - length of JS housing plus room for driven unit, sprocket, and lock collars)....
5/8" lock collars (to hold the driven unit on and maybe the sprocket)....
New Belt (for the new distance between the crankshaft and the jackshaft
 

Garyquick

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I got a 15" jackshaft thata threaded cause i seen how when i recieved the torque converter theres a lock hokding on the small jackshaft thru the driven. I looking at those lock collars but i also noticed how other ppl used lock nuts on there jackshafts for the driven as well.. But the jackshaft i got is threaded 1 1/2 inches on eaxh side so the threads on the side of the sprocket will be goinf thru the bearings... Think i made the wrong call?? And yea i learned alot the last month and still learning every day! With alot of help from u and othwr ppl here so thank u very much!

---------- Post added at 07:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:11 AM ----------

And im waiting on the belt to see the distance between the driver and driven when i get my driven attached to the new jackshaft lol
 

Garyquick

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This thing needs a paint job with some rustolem baadddd but wow is this **** time consuming and rought lol im using a angle grinder with a 60 grit flap disk but man its alot lol im trying to have the frame done by next week so that way by then i should have all the parts i need to so i can be riding her around lol and bob what kind of tachometer do u use? I just need something to tell me about what rpm im at. Trying to figure out that spring placement to get me around 5000 rpm.. My springs already came the way they say to do it in that video so i jeed a tachometer to help me with the placement i also backed out that screw it says to
 

Garyquick

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I got 1 off ebay that had the reflective film but i just got my refund because it started to smoke but had lots of good reviews so i probably just got a dud but those tintaca arw pretty expensive arnt they?
 

Garyquick

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Man taking the frame apart painting this thing is somuch a pain in the *** lol but deff needs new piny job with some rustolem ill take picks when i get home hut the front of the frame is alittle cracked wondering if ubguys have any ideas of how i can get it back together to get it welded back on (think im just going to buy rhe harbor freight mig 170) lol
 

anickode

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I got 1 off ebay that had the reflective film but i just got my refund because it started to smoke but had lots of good reviews so i probably just got a dud but those tintaca arw pretty expensive arnt they?

They aren't cheap, but they're the best.
 

Whitetrashrocker

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I don't know the part numbers or what ever but yeah, HF has a cheap welder. It's 110 volt. It barely works. For just a few more dollars you can get a 220v with a gas option. That's the one to get. It's a much better welder.
Simply said 110v just doesn't have the ummph to do a good job.
 

Hellion

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You got this project roadworthy yet, Garyslow?




I got 1 off ebay that had the reflective film but i just got my refund because it started to smoke but had lots of good reviews so i probably just got a dud but those tintaca arw pretty expensive arnt they?

Cheap Chinese digital tach/hour meters are what I use, despite the "pros" decrying such a choice. Around 7-8 bucks a piece.

I just bought 3 of the kind using a replaceable battery from that famous auction site.
 

Garyquick

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I don't know the part numbers or what ever but yeah, HF has a cheap welder. It's 110 volt. It barely works. For just a few more dollars you can get a 220v with a gas option. That's the one to get. It's a much better welder.
Simply said 110v just doesn't have the ummph to do a good job.

Ok cool ill check it out thanks! I think it was only 100 bucks more to

---------- Post added at 08:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:22 AM ----------

You got this project roadworthy yet, Garyslow?






Cheap Chinese digital tach/hour meters are what I use, despite the "pros" decrying such a choice. Around 7-8 bucks a piece.

I just bought 3 of the kind using a replaceable battery from that famous auction site.
Almost. Got my new jackshaft and bearings in the housing. But i have my fram apart cause i sont think the last owners took good care of it and alot of the pain on it was terrible and rust.. So i took off roll cage used angle grinder the get rust and old paint off hit it with primer and paint (both rustolem) not juat working on the bottom part of the go kart should be ready end of next week
 

Hellion

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Oh ok, you want it to be perfect. That's good. I'm that way too.

Perfectionism is a horrible disease though. :D
 

romjonesj

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Hello I wish to complete a go kart but i have an issue about clutches. I would like to use an industrial manual or hydraulic clutch that would be able to mount to an engine shaft. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions about a clutch that could be capable of doing this. i have seen to many torque converters and centrifugal clutches that are unreliable and i would like to use something that is manual operated, tough and reliable. any suggestions will be great cheers
 

Garyquick

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Oh ok, you want it to be perfect. That's good. I'm that way too.

Perfectionism is a horrible disease though. :D

Yea its bad.. I want it to be to good like fresh out of the manufacturing place lol me and my girl were just talking about that lol but ofcourse ran into anothwr issue.. Went to take off the front tires cause i was about to primer the frame so i can paint it wednesday and i got thw 1st tire off no problem but now i cant get the 2nd one off? It looks like the hub is in the center of the rim? The last pic is the tire i got off and it really looks like the hub goes in the center of the rim but the tire i got off came right off after i took off the bolts? Any ideas? Im at the home stretch.. Just gotta get this tires on and primer and paint thsn put engine and jackshaft on and ill be ready to ride
 

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