Hello everyone! Im new and could really use alittle help lol

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Garyquick

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Maybe ill get lucky and it will fit ok?? Lol i dont know i just didn't really think id have such a problem putting on the torque converter.. Maybe bringing it to a welding shop of some kind? But any suggestions at all would be great! When i get home in a few hours im going to get the torque converter on the motor and see about the measurements
 

Garyquick

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Can anyone steer me to a good link woth a good flgear ration formula with a torque converter and jackshaft?
 

bob58o

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I don't think a calculator exists for a kart/buggy with TC and another jackshaft.

Poor mans way to raise the engine..... 4x4 wooden blocks.

---------- Post added at 11:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:18 PM ----------

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BF6p5GHuHaI

---------- Post added at 11:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:23 PM ----------

I wonder if an angled motor mount would give you the clearance to clear to jackshaft. 15 degrees is common. If you measure from the front of the motor mount to the shaft on the TC backplate, I can figure out how much room that would give you.

Are you trying to raise the engine and use both jackshafts?

Or replacing the 3/4" jackshaft with a 5/8" and putting the pulley from the TC on the current JS?

Or getting a 3/4" pulley and using only the existing JS?



I'm trying to help but cant figure out what you are trying to do? Maybe you are just trying to figure out what you want to do? Not sure the order of the videos...

Put the engine up on blocks and raise it up.

People used 2x4s to riase minibike engines with TC clearance issues. Wood has to be as good as rubber right??

---------- Post added at 11:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:36 PM ----------

That JS doesn't spin correctly. Whats up with the bearings?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSqIS2fuGQ0

---------- Post added at 11:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:38 PM ----------

Can you drill new holes in the motor mount?

---------- Post added at 11:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:39 PM ----------

So to me the two simplest (cheapest) options (if committed to using the TC).....

Drill new holes/slots and mount the engine to the front of the mounting plate. The clearance I saw in the above video is fine. You should try to slot the holes so you can adjust the chain tension. That will probably be an issue. Cant move the JS back, cant move the engine forward. It will be a really short chain without the ability to adjust the tension.


Raise the engine. Steel tubing bolted in is much better than wood. I used a hunk of aluminum for the minibike. It was kind of expensive.

If you do either of those and use both jackshafts... I'd get new bearings for the 3/4" JS.

Raising the engine is the better option, in my opinion, because you'll still be able to adjust the chain tension.
 

Scout

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I was looking at pics of karts with TCs the other day, not all of them have the tc backplate, which leads me to believe his likely didn't when it was new. What is the diameter of the tc stub shaft? Can you mount the driven to the jackshaft and then leave the chain and sprockets on the other end?

---------- Post added at 07:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:52 AM ----------

If I was going to recommend a welder, it would be something name brand in 240 volt, and some classes.
 

bob58o

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I was looking at pics of karts with TCs the other day, not all of them have the tc backplate, which leads me to believe his likely didn't when it was new. What is the diameter of the tc stub shaft? Can you mount the driven to the jackshaft and then leave the chain and sprockets on the other end?

---------- Post added at 07:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:52 AM ----------

If I was going to recommend a welder, it would be something name brand in 240 volt, and some classes.

His JS is 3/4". The TC jackshaft is 5/8".
Have you not been paying attention?
Multiple times he mentioned replacing the 3/4" JS with a 5/8" Jackshaft to fit the Driven unit.
He also mentioned getting a 3/4" bore driven unit to fit his current JS.

---------- Post added at 11:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:54 AM ----------

I feel like too many hands in the pot is spoiling the soup. T-man knows his stuff and I'm just going to let him handle this.
 

Scout

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He talked about the js being 3/4 and the sprocket he prematurely purchased is 5/8.
I don't know poop about torque converters, which is probably evident.
 

Garyquick

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He talked about the js being 3/4 and the sprocket he prematurely purchased is 5/8.
I don't know poop about torque converters, which is probably evident.

Yes i bought the sprocket early being excited ill throw it up on ebay and get a few bucks back of not it was 18 bucks... Im learning alot as i got and i learned alot in just a month but do u not like the torque converters? What is your preference?

---------- Post added at 04:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:54 PM ----------

I don't think a calculator exists for a kart/buggy with TC and another jackshaft.

Poor mans way to raise the engine..... 4x4 wooden blocks.

---------- Post added at 11:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:18 PM ----------

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BF6p5GHuHaI

---------- Post added at 11:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:23 PM ----------

I wonder if an angled motor mount would give you the clearance to clear to jackshaft. 15 degrees is common. If you measure from the front of the motor mount to the shaft on the TC backplate, I can figure out how much room that would give you.

Are you trying to raise the engine and use both jackshafts?

Or replacing the 3/4" jackshaft with a 5/8" and putting the pulley from the TC on the current JS?

Or getting a 3/4" pulley and using only the existing JS?



I'm trying to help but cant figure out what you are trying to do? Maybe you are just trying to figure out what you want to do? Not sure the order of the videos...

Put the engine up on blocks and raise it up.

People used 2x4s to riase minibike engines with TC clearance issues. Wood has to be as good as rubber right??

---------- Post added at 11:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:36 PM ----------

That JS doesn't spin correctly. Whats up with the bearings?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSqIS2fuGQ0

---------- Post added at 11:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:38 PM ----------

Can you drill new holes in the motor mount?

---------- Post added at 11:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:39 PM ----------

So to me the two simplest (cheapest) options (if committed to using the TC).....

Drill new holes/slots and mount the engine to the front of the mounting plate. The clearance I saw in the above video is fine. You should try to slot the holes so you can adjust the chain tension. That will probably be an issue. Cant move the JS back, cant move the engine forward. It will be a really short chain without the ability to adjust the tension.


Raise the engine. Steel tubing bolted in is much better than wood. I used a hunk of aluminum for the minibike. It was kind of expensive.

If you do either of those and use both jackshafts... I'd get new bearings for the 3/4" JS.

Raising the engine is the better option, in my opinion, because you'll still be able to adjust the chain tension.

I am going to be returning this torque conveters and getting (from same company) both 3/4 in driver and driven to put right on my jackshaft and get alonger belt. I cut in the jackshaft mounting plate and can now move it forwards or back about a inch more thank you for taking the time to write all that and help me out! Thanks alot everyone whos been helping me along the way! But what do u mean my jackshaft doesnt spin correctly? I might of had it out? Ill be greasing up the bearings to before everything is put back together and ill make another video on youtube and spon my jackshaft naybe theres a problem with it? Im really not sure?

---------- Post added at 05:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:58 PM ----------

His JS is 3/4". The TC jackshaft is 5/8".
Have you not been paying attention?
Multiple times he mentioned replacing the 3/4" JS with a 5/8" Jackshaft to fit the Driven unit.
He also mentioned getting a 3/4" bore driven unit to fit his current JS.

---------- Post added at 11:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:54 AM ----------

I feel like too many hands in the pot is spoiling the soup. T-man knows his stuff and I'm just going to let him handle this.

I really appreciate the help tho bob!! But i will be exchanging this torque converter and getting both 3/4 driven and driver to put right on jackshaft. Since i dont have the 5/8 jackshaft for the 8 th sprocket which size do you recomend to get my top apeed up as much as i couls with the governor still on? I been looking for a formula to tey to figure ojlut ratios with a torque converter and jackshaft but like stated not sure if its out there lol
 

bob58o

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I mean in this video at 0:35...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSqIS2fuGQ0
when you are asking if the shaft spins correctly...
Is that the bearing (not completely installed) that is visible on the end of the shaft????
It probably wasn't spinning cause the bearing wasn't installed

I'll buy the 8T if you are going to sell it.

---------- Post added at 07:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:27 PM ----------

Yes this video describes what I was talking about. The bearing wasn't installed as you were asking about how it spins.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9dnycgsYg9Y

---------- Post added at 07:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:27 PM ----------

With your big tires, you want the JS sprocket with the smallest number of teeth you can find. It might be a 10T sprocket. It will have to do as you are limited by the 3/4" shaft.

So am I correct in assuming you are not using the backplate at all now?
 

Garyquick

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Yea im not using a backplat just going to get both 6" 3/4 bore driver and driver tc and put the driven on jackshaft and get a longer belt i believe that will also be 3/4 in width i need? and long I believe 35 inches around so alittle over 9 inches from the center of driver to center or driven.. I seen 20 series tc on ebay with the driver and driver and buy a longer belt.. So is my jackshaft ok now? And yea i found a 10 th sprocket with 3/4 bore but does it look like i need anykind of special sprocket or just the lowest tooth sprocket i can get with 3/4 bore? And i dont think i couls use the 8th at all so if u deff want it let me know when
 

Garyquick

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Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/152125736890
Im kinda thinking of changing my jackshaft again.. That way i dont have to return my torque converter.. The driven jas 5/8 bore and if i get something like this this it comes with 8 th aprovket and 14 th if i return the torque converter i have for a new 1 ill be spending about the same amount for anothwr 1 and a new belt... But qhat so u guys think i should do? Return this tc and get 3/4 driven or xhange my jackshaft?
 

bob58o

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Well that particular kit comes with bearing hangers that need to be welded on.

Unless those 5/8" bearings have the same outer diameter as your old 3/4" bearings, they won't fit in the tube that holds the bearings and jackshaft that is on the kart now.

They might have the same OD, but I have no idea.

---------- Post added at 01:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:12 PM ----------

I can pay you like $17 bucks for the sprocket cause that is what I can get it for. $9.50 Plus $7.50 shipping. BMI shipping prices lol.
 

Garyquick

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15 bucks is cool bro lol but this might sound dumb but jow would i figure that out? Do i just measure the hole in my jackshaft housing? I noticed that id have to weld those on so thats a no go lol and im doing this ratio equation that i found on tmans youtube channel with a jackshaft and torque converter and with the 8th sprocket i figured i could go 32 mph but with a 10 th i could go 39? Will the lower th sprocket just pick up my speed faster then a sprocket with more teeth?
 

bob58o

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You have 54T on the rear.
With the 10T that is 5.4:1
With the 8T it is 6.75:1

5.4 : 1 gives more top speed at the expense of acceleration and climbing ability.
6.75: 1 gives better acceleration, better climbing,,,, more low end - which will decrease your top speed.

The TC gives you a 0.9 : 1 Over drive so 5.4 becomes 5.4 x 0.9 = 4.86:1
6.75 becomes 6.75 x 0.9 = 6.08:1

So ya, the 8T will give you 32mph at 3600RPM or 44mph at 5000RPM.


As for the bearings... It looks as though many 5/8" bearings and 3/4" bearings both have a 1-3/8" Outer Diameter so you might be ok there.
 

Garyquick

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How would i get 500p rpm? Removing the governor? Do u have urs removed and did u upgrad fly wheel rod and springs? Thats the only thing keeping me from do it i don't have the money to get fly wheel and rod lol and so i would just need bearings with 5/8 id and a 5/8 jackshaft??

---------- Post added at 08:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:06 PM ----------

And it looks like my bearings have 1 5\8 od?
 

anickode

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How would i get 500p rpm? Removing the governor? Do u have urs removed and did u upgrad fly wheel rod and springs? Thats the only thing keeping me from do it i don't have the money to get fly wheel and rod lol and so i would just need bearings with 5/8 id and a 5/8 jackshaft??

Don't even have to remove it. You can fiddle with the libkage and spring and get it right up around 5k with all stock bits. The engine should handle that ok. Letting it breathe easier will help too.
 

Garyquick

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Yea im going to upgrade the exhaust and intake and probably rejet to. I watched a video on doing what ur talking about and mine are already set up like that but im waiting on a tachometer i ordered on ebay as well
 

Garyquick

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And u think if i get 2 of these bearings and 5/8 jackshaft it will work?
 

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Garyquick

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Ill make a video tomarow that shows my housing better and maybe that will help you help me lol cause i cant figure out how to get the other bearing out in my jsckshaft housing
 

Garyquick

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I got the bearing out and its deff 1 5/8 od
 

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