hammerhead twister (re)build

[linuxman51]

engine is mostly done. I say mostly, I haven't quite nailed down the torque converter stuff, but I also didn't spend much (if any) time on it.

got the cam sensor and crank sensor brackets welded to the case, cleaned stuff up, and got it put back together. Wasn't too bad once I got over my own inhibitions.

Anyway, Pics!

 

[linuxman51]

progress stalled for a few days, what I thought was initially just the monday funk turned into the three most miserable hours of my life, at least in recent history.. got up off the couch to set the coffee machine at 930, caught a chill (in a 78 degree room), and spent the next hour uncontrollably shaking and freezing. about the time I convinced my wife to take my sorry butt to the doc in a box, it went from that to extreme nausea, followed by burning up and sweating profusely. I never actually upchucked, but it pretty much hammered me up for teusday as well, then I got roped into 15 hours of work weds when a system went tango uniform.

today would have had a bit more progress, but I went with a buddy over to columbus, ga to pick up what turned out to be some kind of carter with a gy6 (the infection is spreading...). Enough about that..
as probably most gy6 folks know, after the fact (heh), getting the pulley apart on the driven gear is simultaneously the easiest and most difficult unobvious thing in the world.. it would have been better if I'd looked at the parts diagram in the owner's manual, but who has time for that when you can run around like a dofus? anyway, after reading someone else's remarkably similar trials and tribulations, I realized that what looked like a bolt did not, in fact, have to come apart.

so the driven stuff is all set up and back on the engine, tomorrow if the wife lets me (prediction: no) or saturday I'll get the drive stuff and the belt on, toss the starter on and put it back on the kart.. two weeks later than planned. oh well, that's how these things seem to go the first time.

 

[linuxman51]

still dragging butt, I can't shake this crud. made myself spend a few minutes working on it again tonight, and got all the drive/driven stuff on, belt on, cover on, and part of the subframe. if I can get a few minutes tomorrow I'll try and drop it back in the cradle and maybe even fire it up

 

[linuxman51]

got it back on and in, hooked it all up, hit the starter, and... no compression.. poop. Initially thought I'd timed it up wrong mechanically, went inside to cool off and get cleaned up for the wife's birthday cookout, and remembered that in my various states of.. whatever.. that I didn't re-set the valve lash to go with the new head. exhaust was alright, intake was OPEN. fixed that, boom lit off on the first try.

Need to go on a jy recon mission to gather some connectors and other wiring goodies for the management install, but for the time being, runs alright, no more smoking, now that it's heat cycled a couple of times, need to see about checking bolt tightness and kick this project into high gear. It also needs more cam and higher rpms.

I'm not sure the 1000rpm spring in the back and the 10g weights in the variator were a good combo, it feels like it's "loose" the whole time (like a very high stall converter). I have a 1500 rpm spring I can swap in, and some 14 or 16g rollers that I may try as well.

 

[2SlickNick]

The a-12 cam is an all around good cam for theses machines.
Glad you got it p and going. Also go with sliders opposed to rollers. You gain low end without suffering from top end, also they last longer.

 

[linuxman51]

Sweet, I'll order some up. Thanks for the suggestions! Any rec. on rollers vs sliders as far as weight is concerned?

 

[2SlickNick]

I use 12g sliders those are about equal to 10g rollers on low end. and equal to 14g rollers on top end. Sliders give you about a 2g difference on both ends.
You can go down to 11g sliders without losing top end.

http://youtu.be/yxcQGmT8EJc

 

[linuxman51]

sweet. I'll get some of those on the way. drove it around a little today to get it warm and determine where my drips are coming from.. not as bad as yesterday, I may not have gotten the oil filter on tight enough (which is kinda hard to imagine, but that's where one of my larger drips is, so...).

The other, unfortunately, looks to be coming from the cvt-case joint, and probably points back to my attempted case repair. boooo. not the end of the world though, and I kinda knew I was going to be playing with fire. I'll have the cvt cover off for a look-see here in the next day or two and I guess order up a case piece :-/

on the other side of amusing though, an old buddy is selling a hotrod high compression gy6 set up for e-85 with an a-11, 63mm, +3 setup and a forged piston. aside from the high compression, it sounds like a pretty stout setup, may have to :ahem: acquire parts...

 

[linuxman51]

inked the deal for spare parts and the stroker motor, should have that later this week. Comes with some kind of old buggy frame (haven't seen pics yet), these things are turning out like my volvos... once one shows up, the rest sneak in the back door....

oh well, spare parts are always good to have, they lead to interesting side projects..

 

[linuxman51]

messed around with it today, tightened the oil filter further (apparently it's gotta be ON there, not just really hand tight), fixed the larger oil leak behind the variator, but there appears to be another one just weeping through the case (or possibly coming down the shaft by the seal, hard to tell with everything put back together).

Significantly less, but still enough to be annoying, and in a spot where I don't think you want a bunch of oil floating around. While I was in there dorking around, I swapped in the heavy rollers that came with the rebuild kit for s&g (sliders will hopefully be here tomorrow), did seem to make a difference. While I had the muffler off and out of the way I started seeing where it'd be best/ideal/etc to stuff the turbo. dang that thing is tiny.

also, man this thing is annoyingly loud without the muffler on.

 

[firemanjim]

I have yet to put in my 2cents, yet, but seeing as my pockets feel full, here I go.....
You got the hard headed-ness needed,to get this done,if possible, and functional. I truly don't see a need for a turbo (although I absolutely love the idea) on a kart/industrial engine. It won't see the rpms it needs to do a good job at what it is intended to do effectively, IMHO. If this was truly a "doable" idea, I think the big boys in kart racing would have come upnwith a class for it, and we would have "on the shelf" kits readily available.
With that being said..... If you make this thing huff and puff, and blow the doors down, like you think..... I'll be at your door, cash in hand, for you to build me "my" engine.....
Surely there is a way to make an efficient /effective turbo for an industrial engine..... Now quit fiddling around and get back to work. Fire trucks/Engines have turbo diesel engines...... Did I mention I'm planning a BIG fire engine kart?........

 

[linuxman51]

Well, it may not work worth a flip at all (sadly, the turbo may be too small to use on my tractor if all else fails though)

I've gotta do some data gathering, that seems to be one area where the many turbo scooters fall short... long on videos of it "making boost" short on deltas in acceleration and top end. I'm going to do a slightly less than truly scientific time over distance test, as well as extrapolating information from the ms datalogs when I get that going.

I've also cheated a bit coming out of the gate, I have a buddy that makes and sells very functional single cylinder turbo kits for 250cc motorcycles, so I have some insider information that should help if this thing has any chance of working.. and the things mentioned I've not seen on any of the other implementations on youtube and elsewhere.

Really the only part of this whole thing that I think is going to ham me up is the cvt vs a traditional transmission, but I'm choosing to ignore that part right now and will deal with it when the time comes

 

[firemanjim]

Turbo for a 250cc?? Ok, I'm biting...... I want to hear about that cause I find 250's all the time, cheap......

 

[linuxman51]

www.mpfab.com

look at the turbo kit for the WR250X. He took his bike from 23hp to around 45 or so, the lack of an intercooler limits how much further he can go. There's videos, etc for it.

Also, apparently there's some place out in the northwest in norcal somewhere by the sand, that puts big ol nasty turbos on 400cc quads, they go from something like 40hp to a case-splitting 130 or there abouts. It's really pretty ridiculous.

 

[gman3850]

Well if you don't use the stroker motor I know someone who is looking for 1. Oh ya this guy.

My 150. That I'm finishing up. I need a little more grunt to push the 25's around

 

[linuxman51]

that's a pretty tough setup you've got there. I like those wheels. You running ATV shocks on the back?

picked up the "big engine" this evening, got to hear it run (it was still on a kart, didn't drive it, but it seemed good enough, definitely a bit more 'pop' than my engine). gonna have to modify the muffler that it came with to fit mine, but for the purposes of intra-office trash talk, it's going to look just like my engine when I get done swapping stuff tomorrow after work. :-D "nah man I got a cdi and a muffler from a buddy"

Dude also had a modified joyner 650, that's a whole lotta buggy. lots of potential there, but also a much more serious machine. I'm not there yet. I did get a free hammerhead/carter/chinabuggy frame, but I'll need to source the correct rear axle assembly and some other odds and ends to make it serviceable again.

 

[gman3850]

Same shocks front and rear. Fronts are ryb 320mm and rears are 340mm. It's has some serious ground clearance. Here is everything I have done. I might buy the 62mm kit with p&p head.

Uni & redneck filter
26mm carb &intake
125 or 130 jet. Haven't decided which one feels better
Ngk plug
A12 cam
11g sliders
Red main spring
42t sprocket
2x 340mm shocks with a 640lb. 2x 320mm shocks with 400lb. Ordered these for rear http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GZGGAX ... ot_redir=1
Bearclaw 23x7x10 fronts
Bearclaw 25x10x12 rears
New seat belts
New wiring harness
4gal gas tank
And some cutting and welding
And a new belt.

 

[linuxman51]

well it looks sharp! I like the bigger tires, gives me some ideas for mine.

 

[linuxman51]

charging the go-pro. this thing is retarded. had to clean the carb, swapped over my NCY stuff with a 1500 rpm main rear spring, 1500 rpm clutch springs, and 12gram sliders.. 44mph gps top speed.

Leaves a bit to be desired in the "mid range", needs some ignition timing tuning like a mofo. I'm afraid that once I get the fuel injection working and dialed in, I won't want/need the turbo setup. I'm going to do it anyway, because 1) I've got the goodies, and 2) when is good ever enough?


For comparision, the stroker motor came with 2000 rpm clutch springs and main spring, and 12 gram rollers. I find the 1500 to be a bit more 'linear' on takeoff, and after about 20 seconds at WOT you can hear the CDI kick up to the high timing and it goes from an average of about 32mph on up. With a non fat-butt driver, it apparently does 45mph.

 

[linuxman51]

I think it would actually be quicker on accel with a 50/50 mix of e85 and 93, right now it's straight e85.

I don't really "get" carbs though, I understand the concepts and fundamentals, but the implementation and all that eludes me.. it probably could stand to be leaned out a bit too.