GY6 Variator Question

[itsid]

Hmm..
that is odd... usually a quality belt last quite a while.

But maybe we need more info about the kart itself..

What exact engine are you running? (a 125, 150 or 250 cc version? long or short case...)
I know it SHOULD be the 150.. but maybe that was swapped in between owners?
If it still is a 150cc is it still the ORIGINAL engine or a replacement,
if a replacement, same mfg or just a generic one?
What are the chances that someone (you or PO) messed with the internal reduction by swapping the input gear?
different mfgs use different internal gearing.
Some are geared for two (small) wheel scooters, others are meant to be used in buggies with way larger wheels.. so it does matter what enigne and what internal gearing is used!

What is the rear wheel diameter and the chain reduction ratio?
Has it been changed?

If that thing is bone stock engine gearing and wheel-wise, check the clutch side as well,
a burr can shred the belt of course..
all sheaves must be smooth as a baby's butt:
no rust, no dirt no burrs no pitting...
and no "increase grip by rough sanding" either of course.. that's a stupid move anyways

And if that's also fine (everything's clean the clutch is functional [especially the return springs])
how about the side cover? is it tightly sealed and dust proof?
Or has it been left off to see the action?

And lastly.. belt..
if you buy a belt for 5-10 bucks I expect it to last as many minutes tbh..
So, find a good quality belt,
make sure to use the correct size as well
(it must not be too tight, else the clutch will eat it up in idle)

tough to tell from here...
and without pictures of the equipment even more so.

So, take a few pics for us
wheels, CVT [both pulleys], maybe show us a glimpse of the input gear,
and also chain and sprockets just to get an idea of about all of the transmission.

'sid

OH: and as usual:
Buggy "has to be used" as per the manual..
else the fun doesn't last...
so yeah... less donuts in the mud I guess

 

[Brother Turtle]

This thing is bone stock. Wheels, tires, motor, etc. Right after I bought it, I heard a clicking noise as he was driving it. It turned out to be a broken final drive shaft gear. I bought the new one from hammer head and replaced it. I put the belt and everything back together since it was ok.

When that belt melted, it was all over the clutch and variator. So when I installed the new variator, I used a drill with a wire wheel to buff the rubber off the clutch pulley. I made sure it was good and smooth. I replaced the belt with a Gates brand, not a generic. The only thing that didn't seem right was that the spring tension on the clutch pully was very stiff. So I was barely able to install the belt. The guy I watched on YouTube compressed the spring and held it with one hand while install info the belt with the other. But mine has way more tension than that.

What would cause the tension to be so stiff? How stiff is too much on the clutch?

 

[itsid]

Okay, son not working properly since day one...

Okay, clutch:
IDK if my idea of smooth and your idea of smooth do perfectly match...
but if you're one grid of sandpaper and a wobble wheel session away from mirror finish
you should be good

the compression spring itself should be stiff
the stiffer it is, the longer it's in lowest ratio (providing the most torque it can)
up to a point of course.. could be it's not at all shifting

but that usually only happens if the spring/bushing pack isn't installed correctly
or the funny cam screws are not installed properly
check with the parts manual for an exploded view to compare your setup to.
Oh talking about it.. could it be the inner bushing cought on said cam screws
and didn't go all the way in because of that?
Or the spring got cought on the edge of a bushing?
That'd explain the excessive spring tension *shrugs*

Too much tension would be if you are unable to twist the sheaves against each other (and thus further compress the spring for shifting) with the engine torque
that again depends on the primary reduction...

Anyways... you should be able to twist the sheaves manually,
if not you need to take it apart and see why..

in case you cannot find an exploded view, allow me to explain:

there are two screws with what could be easiest described as steel roller washers
that run inside a cut cam channel of the moveable sheave's stem.
Those screw into the drilled and tapped locator holes in the stem of the fixed sheave.
(two seals in the moveable sheaves stem -one either end- to seal the two )

then with a set of glide washers (2) over the stem,
there follows the inner bushing it's IIRC the longer one!
it should go over the two screws and also cover all of the cam track
to prevent the cam screws from coming loose and catching on the bushing's edge.
then over that follows the spring and the last bushing (slipped into the end of the spring) to finish the pack.
After that the anchor plate of the clutch aligned with the doubleD portion of the shaft and tightened by a nut.. clutch bell and bolt and that's all.

check the two sheaves are moving apart when you rotate them against each other
before actually installing the spring, if they don't check the screws and rollers again,
maybe carefully deburr the cam track.

'sid