Gx240 clutch

[Rocket99]

What about this one?

 

[Rocket99]

How about this one?

 

[mckutzy]

I dont think you understand....

Your crank shaft is like this....
https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Honda-5HP-G...310-ZE1-622-/332448737635?hash=item4d677d2963

Its splined to accept the redux..... its also a mated part for the lay shaft on the outside of the motor that is the pto...

For the above... you need a regular crankshaft, and a regular sideplate to make it work.... Or you need a new motor.... for a regular centrifugal clutch to work...

 

[bob58o]

So if those are 18" Tires?
You probably have something like 14T clutch and 54T rear?
Or 17T crank and 65T Rear?
Anyway I'm guessing you are turning to about 5000 RPM - meaning your governor is not hooked up.
5000 RPM with 18" Tires, a 2:1 reduction, and ~3.8:1 sprocket ratio - will get about 60km/h

Anyways..
I have an idea.
Not sure if it is good.
I have worse ideas, too.


Hillard Extreme Duty Clutch with 1" Bore.
14T #40/41
http://www.bmikarts.com/Hilliard-Extreme-Duty-1-Clutch-14T-_p_725.html
17T #35
https://www.carrollstream.com/Hilliard-1-Bore-17-Tooth-35-Chain-p/ld4s-13.htm


Not sure if these springs fit both the 1" bore and 3/4" Bore? Seem like they might.
Green Spring would engage at 1660 Engine RPM for you if 2:1.

http://www.bmikarts.com/Hilliard-Clutch-Spring-for-the-Extreme-Duty-Clutches_p_4787.html
The quick change spring allows for less time in the pits and more time on the track. These replacement clutch springs allow for different engagement speeds for the Hilliard Extreme Duty line of clutches.

Sold Individually
Engagement Speeds:

Black = 3000 RPM
White = 2300 RPM
Yellow = 2000 RPM
Orange = 1800 RPM
Red = 1200 RPM
Green = 830 RPM

 

[Denny]

Look up 3D manual clutch that will work for sure. The others will not.

Denny

 

[bob58o]

Look up 3D manual clutch that will work for sure. The others will not.

Denny

Do they have a 1" bore 3D manual out?
Is the redux output shaft 1" on this engine?

 

[mckutzy]

I'd look up the specs for the mounting bolts to see if they'll mount at all... I'm not sure it's the same pattern as a small block... ...

 

[anickode]

The only real option for a manual clutch would be a belt tension system in a 1:1 ratio spinning a jackshaft, which in turn chain drives your axle, and even that would be questionable after that 2:1 reduction. Likely too much torque on it at that point, and it would slip and burn up belts.

You could straight up buy a new engine for what the 3D clutch costs, and it wouldn't fit your output shaft anyway.

Unfortunately, you found an engine that just isn't particularly useful for a go kart.

 

[mckutzy]

For all the hassle.... Big block derp would do...you can even get a hemi in a big block..

But if you fixed on getting a big block... A clutch is going to cost you... A TC will be the better bet.... Overall your still got to spend at least $250-300.

 

[anickode]

Here's a thought:

24 tooth fixed sprocket on the engine
12 tooth fixed sprocket on a jackshaft input
Mount a regular centrifugal clutch to the jackshaft output to drive the wheels.

It's a roundabout and inefficient way to end up with a shaft that's spinning the same speed as the engine crankshaft is anyway, but it'd work.

The next problem is your axle sprocket looks awful small for those tires, once the existing 2:1 reduction is out of the picture.

 

[mckutzy]

The thing with cancelling out the redux and using a regular cent clutch... He'll have limited life with the HP they are not rated for.
Also the rear sprocket will most likely need to be changed..depending on the size, might have low clearance.

 

[Rocket99]

How do I know if it is a 2:1 reduction or something else?

 

[mckutzy]

Google.... How I looked this up...
Or, mark the shaft with a pen, remove the sparkplug(this aids in pulling as there won't be compression, it won't also start accidently) .... Manually turn the flywheel very slowly, count the revs...works better with a friend to pull the cord...

 

[Rocket99]

So looks like it's 1:1
I put a marks on the output shaft and the part where the pull start connects and did one full revolution and they both lined back up and they both did one revolution.

---------- Post added at 06:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:28 PM ----------

What does this mean for clutch setup?

---------- Post added at 06:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:29 PM ----------

Finish ratio from output shaft to wheels is 4:1

 

[mckutzy]

That's bizarre... Everything I've seen says its a 6:1 or a 2:1. reduction. Or it'll be a regular side plate...

 

[bob58o]

So with a 4:1 gear ratio, that engine and 18" wheels....
I like this if it fits....
https://www.ebay.com/i/292295346763?chn=ps

 

[Rocket99]

Could I use a centrifugal clutch rather then a torque converter?

 

[bob58o]

4:1 gear ratio, 18" Tires, Clutch with 1800 RPM engagement means 24mph wheel speed when the clutch engages. It means your clutch is going to get hot while the kart gets moving up to 24mph where it can lock up. Weights will be expanded out, but the bell housing will be rotating slower than the weights until the kart is moving 24mph.

TC is more better. When it engages, wheel speed would be like 8 mph (instead of 24mph) with the same 4:1 ratio.

CC will probably die faster. That being said.. I've only used Clutches on things that weren't mine, so I don't have much clutch experience. I like TC's and haven't found a need yet to try a CC on something of my own.

 

[mckutzy]

I hate to be controversial on things...
But looking up that motor, I'm not finding any 1:1 offset pto shaft gearbox...
Based on the side plate seems to dictate its a 2:1 or :6:1.. Either way... Clutch won't work...

 

[bob58o]

I hate to be controversial on things...
But looking up that motor, I'm not finding any 1:1 offset pto shaft gearbox...
Based on the side plate seems to dictate its a 2:1 or :6:1.

So looks like it's 1:1
I put a marks on the output shaft and the part where the pull start connects and did one full revolution and they both lined back up and they both did one revolution.