Flyinhillbilly
The great cornholio
This is going to sound crazy (a lot of things I say do) but how about taking a new clone, tearing it down, and annealing the block where they tend to break?
gx200 clones cracking under load
- Thread starter megacat
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bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
For the side cover I used an exhaust manifold stud kit from autoSTORE.
Works good for me with above 11:1 static CR.
Also ACE has studs that will work. Not sure if M8 or M10.
I had to cut and grind the studs to fit a torque converter backplate.
Works good for me with above 11:1 static CR.
Also ACE has studs that will work. Not sure if M8 or M10.
I had to cut and grind the studs to fit a torque converter backplate.
chancer
ɔ ɥ ɐ u ɔ ǝ ɹ
I do not think there an ACE hardware in Israel.
But still good idea with the studs.
But still good idea with the studs.
Bbqjoe
Banned
The question is though, how much money is made off that $99 clone motor?
I'll bet a lot. It's just economics, and the cost of doing business.
I'll bet a lot. It's just economics, and the cost of doing business.
I plan to have a kart on the healing bench today, so that it will give a photo op to show you how my engine are mounted, and where we weld them.
Flyinhillbilly - how would i anneal and engine block? if i'm not mistaken, i need an oven for that, right?
about the studs and welding the cover - the issue was, that during work the cover bolts would loosen and sometimes unscrew completely, causing the cover to open while the engine is running, if not spotted immediately would lead to a seizure or a cracked block. we narrowed the cause to a combination of bad threads in the block and loose pegs - the two little hollow inserts that help align and hold the covers in place and prevent it from wobbling all over.
the welds are there to deal with the pegs issue.
about the economics of it all, Bbqjoe is right, a clone will make a decent profit for its price, but there is also the issues of safety and customer satisfaction. some of the cracks are right under the fuel tank, and when the block splits open, it rips the nut on the back of tank off, didn't have punctured tanks so far, but it is a risk.
Flyinhillbilly - how would i anneal and engine block? if i'm not mistaken, i need an oven for that, right?
about the studs and welding the cover - the issue was, that during work the cover bolts would loosen and sometimes unscrew completely, causing the cover to open while the engine is running, if not spotted immediately would lead to a seizure or a cracked block. we narrowed the cause to a combination of bad threads in the block and loose pegs - the two little hollow inserts that help align and hold the covers in place and prevent it from wobbling all over.
the welds are there to deal with the pegs issue.
about the economics of it all, Bbqjoe is right, a clone will make a decent profit for its price, but there is also the issues of safety and customer satisfaction. some of the cracks are right under the fuel tank, and when the block splits open, it rips the nut on the back of tank off, didn't have punctured tanks so far, but it is a risk.
mckutzy
Well-known member
Id look into drill the bolts for safety wire...... If aircraft, performance machines are required to have these for regular use..... this might be a good solution...
Here is an example..... there are other types on google...
Here is an example..... there are other types on google...
Flyinhillbilly
The great cornholio
To anneal aluminum I take an oxygen/acetaline torch and light it on straight acetaline, and before I add any oxygen I'll wave the flame over the part until it's covered in soot. The I add oxygen to get a normal flame, then just slowly heat the part until the soot burns off. I do this when I'm forming aluminum all the time, and it makes it butter soft. I just wonder if the cases aren't work hardening causing them to crack is my thinking behind this cockamamie scheme.
mckutzy
Well-known member
Well there's always the soap technique.......
This is a sheet metal guys way of annealing aluminum for cars and other stuff(Im not too sure if it will help in this case).... rub regular ivory soap(or whatever brand white bar soap) over the area......
Slowly heat with a torch..... The soap turn to a blackish brown color when the item has been annealed from sufficient heat applied... as always keep the torch moving....
This is a sheet metal guys way of annealing aluminum for cars and other stuff(Im not too sure if it will help in this case).... rub regular ivory soap(or whatever brand white bar soap) over the area......
Slowly heat with a torch..... The soap turn to a blackish brown color when the item has been annealed from sufficient heat applied... as always keep the torch moving....
Flyinhillbilly
The great cornholio
It's just another way of getting the metal to critical temperature. I'm somewhat of a sheetmetal man myself, and I like the torch method since you don't end up with cooked on soap.
mckutzy
Well-known member
Ya its a bit of a dog to remove...... But it does help.......
Ironically....... with a bit more of SOAP and water...........itll come off......
Harharhar.......
Ironically....... with a bit more of SOAP and water...........itll come off......
Harharhar.......
Flyinhillbilly
The great cornholio
The soot burn off clean. No residue to clean at all.
maknwar
New member
contact the mfg and ask them why they are cracking. Maybe they have a better idea on why and how to stop it. It looks like the engines are just not meant to handle what you're using them for.
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