Greetings from Puerto Rico !!! Please help with this baby ID
- Thread starter juanrrios
- Start date
USAMAC
Member
So if it were mine, I'd cut the axle off at the welds and change it out for a live axle. At the same time, setting it up to have hydraulic disk breaks and a 40 series TC and put a 420cc stage 1&2 on it. I'd set it up for a road cart with the same style wheels on the back, but newer and better all the way around.
I'm pretty new here too, but from learning from these folks this is about as specific as I can get right now without having actually done this much of a project yet!
Good luck to ya, send pics of your progress
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
We've definitely seen that frame before, but I couldn't say what brand or model it is, and I don't care. I'd just buy a Predator 212 engine, a 30 series CVT for it, a live axle with pillow block bearings, and just make it all fit on there the simplest way you can.
6.5 HP (212cc) OHV Horizontal Shaft Gas Engine, EPA (harborfreight.com)
1" Steel Live Axle | 4000** | BMI Karts And Parts
4 Pcs Premium Unit 1 inch Bore Self-align Pillow Block Bearing UCP 205-16 Tool | eBay
Go Kart Torque Converter Clutch Kit for 10T #40#41#420 and 3/4" 12T #35 2HP-7HP | eBay
1” DOUBLE SPLIT STEEL NEW CLAMPING SHAFT COLLAR BLACK OXIDE (Qty 4) Free Ship | eBay
6.5 HP (212cc) OHV Horizontal Shaft Gas Engine, EPA (harborfreight.com)
1" Steel Live Axle | 4000** | BMI Karts And Parts
4 Pcs Premium Unit 1 inch Bore Self-align Pillow Block Bearing UCP 205-16 Tool | eBay
Go Kart Torque Converter Clutch Kit for 10T #40#41#420 and 3/4" 12T #35 2HP-7HP | eBay
1” DOUBLE SPLIT STEEL NEW CLAMPING SHAFT COLLAR BLACK OXIDE (Qty 4) Free Ship | eBay
USAMAC
Member
I thought you were anti #35
Thepartsguy
Well-known member
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You have a bird manufacturing go cart from the 70’s.. And the scrub brakes are still there! That is a nice touch. It is worth building also.
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
??? Hope I didn't mislead anyone about my feelings on chains.............. Run #35's myself, maybe it was the way I recently railed about the POS #35 chainbreaker I have? I'm certainly anti-that POS! We were discussing the importance of there being a back side on the breaker for the pin to push against instead of bending the links like mine. Here's a link to that POS so all can see what I'm talking about...............
Roller Chain Breaker Cutter for Chain Size 25, 35, 40, 41, 50, 60 ,420, 415,415H 799789047985 | eBay
USAMAC
Member
Gotcha, how can I educate my self on why you'd prefer #35's?
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
It's only about the availability of parts for #35 drivetrains. There's everything you could possibly want in the way of sprockets, and certainly of stock lengths of chain, and accessories like half links, that are widely available anytime.
Caveat: #35 chains are great for 30 series torque converters, and hotrodded motors like my 212 jacked up to 15+ hp. because that's all at very high rpm.
If using a 40 series TC because of the higher torque of a larger (420) engine, I've seen #35 chains (3/8") get snatched in half. In those applications I'd go with 1/2" chains, as in #40, #41, #420. Here's a chart showing why I recommend against making a #40 setup (mismatch of sprockets/chain).
Chain for Go Kart, Mini Bike | GoKarts USA®
Caveat: #35 chains are great for 30 series torque converters, and hotrodded motors like my 212 jacked up to 15+ hp. because that's all at very high rpm.
If using a 40 series TC because of the higher torque of a larger (420) engine, I've seen #35 chains (3/8") get snatched in half. In those applications I'd go with 1/2" chains, as in #40, #41, #420. Here's a chart showing why I recommend against making a #40 setup (mismatch of sprockets/chain).
Chain for Go Kart, Mini Bike | GoKarts USA®