Got a used buggy (Tomberlin Crossfire 150); need a little help.

[jason4207]

Just picked this up used for $300!





The seller got it to start using starter fluid, and was even able to ride around his circle driveway if he kept it floored. I didn't have quite as much luck and only made it halfway before it died on me.

I got it home and I took the carb all apart and cleaned it the best I could. It didn't seem to be in horrible shape.

My neighbor and I had the rear-end jacked up, and we were able to get it running by spraying gas in the carb. Could never get it to idle, though.

Any ideas on what I should do next? I was thinking of getting a carb rebuild kit on eBay, or just getting a whole new carb. I have an unused fuel filter I can swap out in case there is water in the line or something. It has fresh gas in it according to the seller.

The rubber intake elbow needs to be replaced and it definitely needs a new air filter. I was thinking of upgrading to a larger intake, larger carb, and better filter, but I'm not sure what exactly will work.

A lot of the rubber and hoses need to be replaced on the buggy. Hoses should be easy; I assume I can get something at the auto-parts store. What about the rubber tie-rod bushings? Any ideas on sourcing these?

Tryin to fix this up as cheaply as possible!

 

[qtband]

I'd drain the gas, and replace the intake elbow. If that isn't making a good seal, it'll never run right. That's a good deal for $300! Keep us posted....

 

[exenos]

I'd say thats a steal for 300

 

[ghostdog]

Maybe try raising the idle screw.

 

[bighead]

Clean the carb the best you could? Did you poke the jets?

 

[fl250540]

Clean the carb

Sounds like the carb needs to be cleaned, you can take it apart and soak it in some seafoam overnight, use some wire to run through the jets and an aircompressor to blow them out.

Or you could have an air leak. If it was me id replace the bad seals and rebuild the carb. Id get it running good before hooking up a bigger carb or anything.

 

[kaymo]

boil out that carb with lemon juice

 

[jason4207]

I poked some wire strands through the jet holes. I had it completely apart and I used a whole can of carb cleaner on it.

I will order the rebuild kit, some new hose, and the intake elbow and see if that gets me somewhere.

How does the lemon juice thing work? Just put it in a pot of boiling lemon juice on the stove?

 

[landuse]

I poked some wire strands through the jet holes. I had it completely apart and I used a whole can of carb cleaner on it.

I will order the rebuild kit, some new hose, and the intake elbow and see if that gets me somewhere.

How does the lemon juice thing work? Just put it in a pot of boiling lemon juice on the stove?

Have a look at this

How to clean a carburetor the right way (with lemon juice)
http://ezinearticles.com/?How-to-Clean-a-Motorcycle-Carburetor,-The-Right-Way&id=1460030
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=11976&highlight=lemon+juice

 

[jason4207]

OK, looking on eBay I can get a carb rebuild kit for $27 shipped. The intake manifold elbow looks to be about $10 shipped, but I need to verify the dimensions tonight before I order. So, looking like ~$37 for all that. I'm pretty sure the stock carb is 24mm, but I will verify that tonight.

The other option is to go to a 26mm carb that comes with an elbow for $43:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/220886114743?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

But I'm really not sure if this carb is designed for off-road use.

And here is another complete carb, but this one is 24mm for $29:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150704851094?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Again, I'm not sure if it's designed for off-road use.

Should I stick with rebuilding the stock carb?

 

[qtband]

Either of the carbs will work for you. On road or off. Just be sure your original has an electronic choke like the ones you found on Ebay. If they're the right carbs, I'd just get a new on with the intake. Boiling in lemon juice is awesome for carb cleaning!

 

[jason4207]

Yes, it has the electric choke. Just waiting on the eBay seller to verify the bolt hole spacing so I know it will fit.

Thanks for all the help so far guys!

 

[jason4207]

Update:

New carb and intake manifold arrived last Friday. Got them installed and the engine started right up and idled like a purring kitten!

Put all the tubing and airbox on and had a slight issue. There is a hose that connects from the top of the engine to a small chamber in the airbox which is filtered before going to the main large hose between the airbox and carb. I managed to break off the hose inlet on the airbox (see green on middle pic below). I rigged it up, so that it still basically goes to the same place, but I know it doesn't have a tight seal.



And then on the back of the airbox there was a rubber tube coming out the back that goes down into the CVT. It was dry rotted and I ripped it off very easily. I put some vinyl tubing in it's place for now.



Buying a new airbox seems like a waste of money. If I was to get a cone air filter where would these hoses go?


Now onto the bigger issues. I'm having an issue where the engine just dies sometimes. I'll be going along at mid to full speed and I'll get a little pop or backfire and then no matter where I hold the throttle the engine will just slow down and die. This typically happens on an incline. A couple times I was able to keep it going on a downhill, but if there is any incline at all, even on pavement, it will just slowly die. But, I just turn the key and it cranks right up and will even get going up the hill if it's not too steep and on pavement. Do you think my fuel line not being a constant down angle has anything to do with it?




And I also think something might be wrong with the CVT. I can get up this grass hill behind my house if I get a running start. I was watching a Tomberlin Predator 150 on Youtube last night and it was able to go up very steep inclines from a standstill without any issues. You could tell the engine was revving up, and the CVT was doing it's job to keep the gearing low. Mine doesn't seem to be doing that. From a dead stop and only on a slight incline in the grass it won't move without a little push. It doesn't seem to be allowing the engine to rev up by adjusting the gear ratio. I'm going to take it apart and see what she looks like, but if anyone has any ideas I'm all ears.

 

[qtband]

Check to see if the belt is the correct one for your CVT. That's where I'd start.

 

[jason4207]

OK, finally got around to taking the CVT apart. The drive pulley was stuck in "middle gear". I took it apart and one of the roller weights was in there crooked not letting the device fully collapse. So, I think I fixed that but...

Now the buggy won't start. At first I tried to start it with the CVT cover, exhaust, and airbox removed just to test the CVT. It turns over, but won't fire. So, I put everything back together...same thing. I pulled the plug and I'm not getting a spark.

The only thing I can think of is that I used my air wrench to get the drive pulley off. I tied a leather belt to the drive pulley to hold it while the air wrench did the work. Could I have damaged something?

Any thoughts on where to look first for the source of my new problem?

 

[OzFab]

Of all your pics, I don't see a clear shot of your engine so, instructing you as to how to fix your spark problem may be difficult for some of us.

It is possible that using an air wrench has damaged something, like the flywheel keyway. I would check it, even just to eliminate it as a cause

Now onto the bigger issues. I'm having an issue where the engine just dies sometimes. I'll be going along at mid to full speed and I'll get a little pop or backfire and then no matter where I hold the throttle the engine will just slow down and die. This typically happens on an incline. A couple times I was able to keep it going on a downhill, but if there is any incline at all, even on pavement, it will just slowly die. But, I just turn the key and it cranks right up and will even get going up the hill if it's not too steep and on pavement. Do you think my fuel line not being a constant down angle has anything to do with it?

I know you have bigger problems right now, but this ma y a result of the rise in your fuel line between the tap & the filter. Somehow, you need to get this line sitting lower; it may be creating an air bubble in the line.

 

[jason4207]

It's a GY6 clone (Howhit). I'll get some pics up in the next couple of days.

Thanks for the advice on the fuel line! I'll fix that up and see if it helps.

 

[jason4207]

OK, I rechecked for spark and I am getting a spark. Guess I couldn't see it in the direct sun before. I even went and got a new spark plug, but I still have the same problem. It just turns over and over but won't fire.

I recharged the battery overnight, but that didn't help either. It turns over faster, though!

I followed a trouble-shooting guide and it says I should have ~50-100vAC on the CDI power wire coming from the stator which I do. It also said I should have 0.40vAC on the trigger wire coming from the stator, but I'm only reading 0.1vAC on my cheapo multi-meter...I'm wondering how accurate it is down that low, though, as it is the 200vAC range setting.

Right now I have the CVT housing removed along with the belt and drive pulley. I also have the exhaust, airbox, flywheel cover and fan removed. It looks like I need a special tool to remove the flywheel. Is there any way to check the flywheel keyway or timing with the flywheel still installed?

This website says to use an impact wrench on the drive pulley bolt:
http://www.thegy6place.co.uk/#/how-tos-2/4537031852

Here are some pics of what I'm looking at. Any help is much appreciated as I'm not sure what to do next.

 

[speed1]

You GOT an AWESOME deal on that kart, there are many smart , informative, kind people...They'll walk you thru the whole process , they got me going in the right direction ...Bob

 

[chrldo]

you might want to check the petcock on the fuel tank it gums up just like the carb. slows the fuel down to a trickle. check the grounds which are connected to the back side of the screw that attaches the rectifier.