Go kart won't stay running

Status
Not open for further replies.

robertsfd2002

New member
Messages
24
Reaction score
0
Location
Western North Carolina
Go kart: Yerf Dog #3206 with Howhit engine (GY6 carb)

Problem: can't get it running

First, I'm not real handy. But I did read numerous posts and articles listed here and elsewhere. I have a lot of information in my head now but have trouble seeing it all together.

Go kart has been sitting for 2+ years. Couldn't start it after one winter and my jack-of-all-trades father-in-law could not get it running except by spraying starter fluid. Not sure what he did, but don't think he took carb off. He did drain the gas when he couldn't fix it. If he can't do it, I know I can't I thought.

2 years later, I'm now trying to fix it. Took carb off and cleaned it (realizing now after much reading I should have done a better job). Bought fresh gas from station to use. Changed fuel filter. Still no start. Lots of starter fluid but still no start. Checked the plug and it was sparking and looked okay visually. No compression gauge but was getting a good puff of air from the plug hole. About to give up.

Next day I try again. First time as I am cranking the starter, gas is spitting out the exhaust pipe but no start. I try again a couple of hours later and it starts and I throttle it up; as it is running gas is dripping from the exhaust pipe and what seems like white (not dense though) smoke is coming from the pipe too. I'm revving it up and it runs about 30 seconds and then dies. Pipe is smoking. Won't start back. Several hours later I try again. Nothing. I take the spark plug out again and crank it a bit and put the plug back in. The thing starts up again and I throttle it and it runs about 30 seconds (with giving it gas, not idling). No gas leaking from the pipe but there is the smoke again. After it dies, won't start back.

Next day, same thing. Starts after I take the plug out and crank it a bit and put plug back in. Same smoke. Won't start after it dies but this time when I try to start again a very thick darkish white puff of smoke comes out the pipe when I crank it.

Today, nothing is happening. Taking plug out as before does nothing. Right when I first hit the start button it sounds like a very small turn over, but doesn't start. So here I am wondering what I should try now. My plan, absent any other advice, is to try to clean the carb again, this time doing it the way I read on links from this site (and boiling in lemon juice). I'll also replace the spark plug.

I should note that when I cleaned the carb, on what I believe is the pilot jet (smallest of two jets), I could not get a small piece of wire through the jet. I assume after using a paper clip with no success that maybe it wasn't a hole all the way through since there were tiny holes on the sides of the jet. But even still, it did start running those three times.

Any advice anyone? Anything is appreciated. I hope to check back Thursday evening after work to see what I should try next.

Thanks,

Doug
 

powerking

New member
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
Location
durham n.c
Well advice here is to be patiant and try one thing at a time use a sewing neddle to get those small holes if you need a gasket get a part number and order it. And white smoke is not a good sign. Sounds like the rings are shot. My advice with the white smoke is scrap the moter for a new one or you could try fixing it. But seems like with your knowhow new would be beter should be able to find a replacment for around 100 bucks.
 

itsid

Moderator
Staff member
Messages
11,563
Reaction score
240
Location
Ruhrpott [Germany]
too much fuel!
adjust the carb to leaner mixture if possible,
if not, use a smaller jetting.

You should tell us What engine you have exactly (and what carb you have, best incl jet size etc.)
For starters, take some pictures of it.

'sid
 

OzFab

Well-known member
Messages
15,615
Reaction score
67
Location
Warwick Qld, Australia
My first guess is it's flooding for whatever reason. Try starting & hold throttle open but steady to clear excess fuel. When you rebuilt the carb, check the float level...

If the engine runs, even for a short time, chances are the spark plug is ok but, replacing it can't hurt
 

robertsfd2002

New member
Messages
24
Reaction score
0
Location
Western North Carolina
$100 for a new engine? Where can I get that? It seemed a new carb was $100.

Tomorrow evening when I can work on this again, I'll take some pics. It's the GY6 carb - I'm not sure what more to quote about that. Perhaps the pics will indicate the jet sizes as I'm not sure how to tell that. And if I'm not mistaken, the #3206 is a 150cc engine.

One last question before I go to bed: is there anything I should try before I do anything like trying to clean the carb again? Anything like putting a little gas in the spark plug hole?
 

bott12

New member
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Use something that isn't going to scratch the inside of the jets. a broom bristle, carb cleaner, compressed air. Other hardened items can damage the insides of the needles.
 

robertsfd2002

New member
Messages
24
Reaction score
0
Location
Western North Carolina
Battery is dead tonight, so no work until tomorrow night. It did have one good crank in it, and lo and behold the thing started and ran for 20 or 30 seconds as before.

I have the carb apart and boiled in lemon juice, coated with carb cleaner and is drying now. It's a GY6. Here's a picture of the carb I have - if not the exact same one, it looks the same: http://www.scootusa.com/152QMI_carb/connections-01.jpg

This has an electric choke. I'm not sure how to check to see if it could have gone bad. And if it did, would that cause this type of problem?

Intake manifold is cracked, at least on the outside - it seems like it may be okay inside. I read to spray starter fluid at the crack to see if it is all the way through, but without being able to get the kart running long enough, I can't do that.

Is there anything else I can/should do while waiting on battery to charge?

And is there a best place to try to buy parts, like a new intake manifold and electric choke?

Thanks.
 

mckutzy

Well-known member
Messages
8,353
Reaction score
107
Location
bc, canada
For the effort of all this, id say get one of those harbour freight $100 clone motors. get a clutch or a CVT, and good to go.
 

Doc Sprocket

*********
Messages
15,677
Reaction score
142
Location
Ontario, Canada
This has an electric choke. I'm not sure how to check to see if it could have gone bad. And if it did, would that cause this type of problem?

Intake manifold is cracked, at least on the outside - it seems like it may be okay inside. I read to spray starter fluid at the crack to see if it is all the way through, but without being able to get the kart running long enough, I can't do that.

BANG!

I've never mucked with one of these engines, but I think we have it. I have read about the electric starter/enricher solenoid on these things. Here it is as I understand it-

The "electric choke" as it were is an electrically actuated solenoid on the enricher circuit. It is in a "normally choked" state, as it were. When current is applied to it, it shuts off. Where does that leave us? When it breaks, it has a tendency to flood the heck out of the engine! Based on your descriptions, I'd say this is indeed the problem. To check it, just apply power directly. Remove it if you like. It should be pretty obvious whether this solenoid is functioning correctly or not. There is a plunger on the "inside" end of it. I believe (not having actually touched one) that applying the 12v would cause it to push the plunger out, and removing the power would cause it to draw it back in. There should be a audible click one way or the other.

As for the cracked intake, that would cause the opposite problem, a lean condition. While it may not be an issue right now, it's best to replace it, too.
 

itsid

Moderator
Staff member
Messages
11,563
Reaction score
240
Location
Ruhrpott [Germany]
not quite, it's not a immediate actuator;
it heats up stopping the fuel rather slowly (3-5minutes)
So there will be no "click"

Remove the solenoid and test it off the carb, the plunger should elongate from 11mm to 14mm when hot.
the distance is measured from the base (black collar) to the sealing edge of plunger not the needle tip.
Oh and hot means HOT, so wear gloves ;)

So solenoid out, measure (should be 11mm or .433")
apply 12V from a fully charged battery to the solenoid and wait for 5 minutes.
(Caution: the solenois should be hot now!)
measure again and it should be 14mm or .552"

if not, replace it (a new solenoid should cost about $10-$12 not more)

'sid
 

Doc Sprocket

*********
Messages
15,677
Reaction score
142
Location
Ontario, Canada
Sid- If you say so, I believe it. I've never played with one of these, just read about it... But is it really a conventional electric solenoid then? Or more of a thermal actuator?

It actually makes a bit of sense. If it takes a minute or two to heat and actualte, that would keep the mixture rich while the engine warms.

Still- anybody wonder why I hate technology? This would NOT be an issue if it was a good old manual, mechanical control!

Thanks for the clarification! You're not gonna believe this but not everything you read on the internet is true! Can you believe it? LOL
 

itsid

Moderator
Staff member
Messages
11,563
Reaction score
240
Location
Ruhrpott [Germany]
Never touched a GY6 (or parts of it) myself, the info I have is from a german forum where someone had a problem with that choke-thingy too.

In the partlist it's called "electrical auto choke" afaik
I guess it's best described as thermal actuator, but solenoid is shorter to type ;)

Thanks for the clarification! You're not gonna believe this but not everything you read on the internet is true! Can you believe it? LOL
WHAT!??!!??
You're kidding right?
I was just about to build me a GEET system ;)

'sid
 

robertsfd2002

New member
Messages
24
Reaction score
0
Location
Western North Carolina
Okay, I will try testing the choke. I see that and can do that.

I'll need to read a bit on the solenoid. While I've heard the part mentioned, I'm not aware of where it would be, how to get it off, or how to check it out. But I bet there's plenty of material to find about that. And if I find it on the Internet, it must be true too, right. :)

We'll see if I can get to that tonight. I'll report back.

Quick question: I found an intake manifold at one place for $20 and another on Amazon for less than $3. Same sort of thing for a replacement electric choke (if I need one), although price difference wasn't as great. Is it worth the gamble getting these off Amazon from some unknown seller (little or no feedback for these items)?

Many thanks.
 

bott12

New member
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Its a little better than a crapshoot. I've had pretty good luck from strangers. Maybe send them an e-mail before you buy, and judge their response.
 

robertsfd2002

New member
Messages
24
Reaction score
0
Location
Western North Carolina
A question about testing the electric choke:

I'm not sure exactly how to hook up 12volts to see if it works as intended. Would this be taking some copper wire from the go-kart's battery terminals, and putting one to one of the leads of the choke and the other to the other lead? Or is there an easier way?

What I did do though is test the thing with a multimeter. I was getting about a 10 ohms reading. Would that suggest the thing is good? I read somewhere else it might.

Is there a way to eliminate the auto choke? Something I can do by hand to help get it started when needed.

Thanks.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top