Go-Kart Steering Very "Heavy" (Hard to Turn)

SquidBonez

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Well, here it is (along with some pedals I made). Not quite done yet as I still have to add the center hub mount but it's 90% done. Obviously heavier than the old wheel since this is not only larger but made entirely of metal. The old wheel weighs 2.5 pounds and this new yoke weighs 5 pounds. I'm willing to trade a matter of another 2.5 pounds for easier steering though. I'm also going to wrap the handles with handlebar tape to make it grippier. I think I nailed the old Honda Odyssey look of the yoke though. What do you think?
 

madprofessor

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I think I nailed the old Honda Odyssey look of the yoke though. What do you think?
Can't recall what that would look like, but I'm feeling a little concerned about the yoke as it sits. Companies over-use the word "ergonomic" to try for sales that get more money from you, but there are times when ergonomics that actually work that way would be helpful.
I think the rigid parallel grips of the yoke would bother me if driving it. My comfortable position would have both grips tilting a little inward toward each other at the top, so that in a turn my inside wrist wouldn't be twisting way to the outside.
 

Functional Artist

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I think it looks good! :thumbsup:
Nice work! ;)

Did ya ever try (test) if or to see how much, a larger diameter steering wheel would help, your situation?
 

MTScott

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If you need to keep all the current angles and need more leverage you could run a sprocket setup and gear it how you need with that. split the pitman shaft from steering shaft, put a sprocket on each and some bearings and you can basically "gear down" your steering to the pitman arm. This is more fabrication, but if you're avoiding a rack then it could be a way to increase leverage without sacrificing steering angle.

Part of the heavy steering could be due to those tires. I ran narrow rounded ATV tires up front on mine, reducing the contact patch.
 

madprofessor

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How many "drive positions" do you have?
...& why?
Jumping a kart off of a sand dune or similar air makes a single driver on the left side of a 2-seater tip over to the left before touching ground again, should only get air with your weight in the center. That's the only mechanical excuse that I have. Now to answer more completely and accurately why the 2 drive positions (left and center), with left & right or just in the center racing harnesses, and separate gas/brake pedals for the 2 positions, were originally dreamed up..............
I wanted to build something just about anybody and everybody could be interested in buying after it's finished, and that nobody else has. No profit, just want my cash back. No good place to keep it, even less to ride it, just wanted to build it.
No guessing what the most popular paint is, all Stars & Stripes instead, and if you don't like that, I wouldn't sell it to you anyway. Blaupunkt media center w/marine dual-cone speakers, hi/lo 105 decibel horns and a little siren, LED headlights, Harley tail/brake lights, Monroe air shocks front, 17" nitrogen coilovers mounted cantilevered rear, change from 15" offroad ground clearance to 3" track driving, all lighted r/w/b toggle switches, exhaust popoff valve with arc-ignited flaming propane fireball, passenger-side panic slapswitch as motor killer, removeable (hitchpins) roll cage, and yes, those 2 chrome spouts in the dash come from refillable bottles in the dash that are fired by 12volt pumps, with the dispensing buttons padlocked for open container laws, they don't care about the O.J., but the Cuervo Gold is hard to explain.
Question answered now? Note: "Mad Professor" isn't a name I gave myself, others pinned it on me decades ago. Can you see why?
 

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