Go kart motor not configured correctly

[rockstaradam123]

I bought a go kart yesterday which has front suspension only. The front suspension is from a atv and the rear is the drive train. My problem is i cannot get the clutch lined up. The drive train is on the bottom and if i leav it how it is now, the mufflers are in the cockpit, and if i turn it around, there is a bar in front of where the belt has to go. I could mount it up on the bar all the way in the back, but to make room id have to cut off the major support bars. What do you think? Thanks

Ps. I only payed 100 bucks for this sucker without the motor, hydraulic breaks, perfect tires. Needs a little bit fo work before its up and running

 

[rockstaradam123]

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Welcome to the wonderful world of DIY. Since you are not dealing with a factory machine, you are forced to face hurdles like these head on. For a project like this, if you can't weld, you're screwed. Sorry, it's true. You will have to hack and cut, you will have to relocate frame members and build various adapters and supports. You will have to fabricate your @ss off to make it happen.

For many (most?) of us, this is the fun of it all- meeting the challenge and conquering it. Making things work together that were never meant to is a DIY engineering challenge. So- put the engine where it's gotta go, and rework whatever you need to in order to make it happen.

More, and clearer pics might help us be a little more specific with recommendations. And- Welcome to the forum!

EDIT- I do not understand what you are trying to convey with the following two statements-

the rear is the drive train.

The drive train is on the bottom

Please clarify.

 

[rockstaradam123]

Welcome to the wonderful world of DIY. Since you are not dealing with a factory machine, you are forced to face hurdles like these head on. For a project like this, if you can't weld, you're screwed. Sorry, it's true. You will have to hack and cut, you will have to relocate frame members and build various adapters and supports. You will have to fabricate your @ss off to make it happen.

For many (most?) of us, this is the fun of it all- meeting the challenge and conquering it. Making things work together that were never meant to is a DIY engineering challenge. So- put the engine where it's gotta go, and rework whatever you need to in order to make it happen.

More, and clearer pics might help us be a little more specific with recommendations. And- Welcome to the forum!

EDIT- I do not understand what you are trying to convey with the following two statements-


Please clarify.

Posting some pics now

 

[rockstaradam123]

this is the rear left, where the clutch is, but would have to be on the other side, because the exhausts are where the seat would have to be

 

[rockstaradam123]

This is where the exhaust's are right now, but wouldn't be able to be

 

[rockstaradam123]

This is where the motor would sit, if you look close, it is sitting down a few inches, on support bars above the drive train. Then there is a bar in front of the carb, i COULD mount it to, BUT there are main frame bars in the way and it would lost ALOT of strength if i were to re mount them.

 

[rockstaradam123]

That bar, closer up, of course i would cut those brackets off.

 

[rockstaradam123]

Another veiw of the engine, and the fan, thats approx where the clutch would have to go.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Well, you can't just spin the engine around 180* because of the exhaust port location. Options include moving the engine further rearward, installing a heat sheild for driver safety, and modifying the exhaust to turn sharply away from the cockpit and towards the rear of the machine- or a combination of the above.

I'm guessing that's a snowmobile engine?

 

[rockstaradam123]

Also, you said i'm not dealing with a factory machine, you are slightly correct, im 90 percent sure that the guy did not make this go kart, i think he took a non suspension go kart, and took a Yamaha warrior a arms and stearing, and the drive train and welded it to them, if not, he did that after he made the frame, if he even did, which i don't beleive he did. I wish i could find the model of the cart, but there arent any stickers but a speedway tech inspection sticker

 

[rockstaradam123]

Well, you can't just spin the engine around 180* because of the exhaust port location. Options include moving the engine further rearward, installing a heat sheild for driver safety, and modifying the exhaust to turn sharply away from the cockpit and towards the rear of the machine- or a combination of the above.

I'm guessing that's a snowmobile engine?

I'll spin it, and show you, check back in a few minutes

 

[rockstaradam123]

Welcome to the wonderful world of DIY. Since you are not dealing with a factory machine, you are forced to face hurdles like these head on. For a project like this, if you can't weld, you're screwed. Sorry, it's true. You will have to hack and cut, you will have to relocate frame members and build various adapters and supports. You will have to fabricate your @ss off to make it happen.

For many (most?) of us, this is the fun of it all- meeting the challenge and conquering it. Making things work together that were never meant to is a DIY engineering challenge. So- put the engine where it's gotta go, and rework whatever you need to in order to make it happen.

More, and clearer pics might help us be a little more specific with recommendations. And- Welcome to the forum!

EDIT- I do not understand what you are trying to convey with the following two statements-


Please clarify.

I meant, he used an atv drive train and welded it to the bottom

 

[rockstaradam123]

Here, you can see the clutch is on the right, the sprocket on the left, and the pull start is unreachable,

Here, the clutch has some room, but it has no room for the belt to or to contract, so the belt catches, also it would have to connect to the torque converter, which i would have no room to put on, and that torque converter would conntect to a jack shaft with a sprocket, which goes to the chain, which i also have no room for

Here, you can see how the sprocket is aligned ( the left ) and how i don't have room for a jack shaft, because the torque converter would not fit inbetween the gastank and motor, and I would have no place for the chain to go.

 

[rockstaradam123]

You are correct, thats a snowmobile engine, and for what i mean "the drive train on the bottom " i mean, its welded 2 two 2" square support bars on the bottom of the cart.

 

[rockstaradam123]

Be back in 3 hours, feel free to post suggestions or questions, thanks!

 

[Doc Sprocket]

With regards to my comment about, "you can't just spin the engine 180*", I didn't mean because of clearances. I mean because the engine turns in one particular direction, and inless you want to take off in reverse, you'd better have it facing the right way 'round. I do not have a lot of sled engine experience, but I believe you will find the correct orientation to be with the CVT driven pulley on the left, exhaust forward, carb rearward. A simple pull on the recoil will tell the tale.

 

[rockstaradam123]

With regards to my comment about, "you can't just spin the engine 180*", I didn't mean because of clearances. I mean because the engine turns in one particular direction, and inless you want to take off in reverse, you'd better have it facing the right way 'round. I do not have a lot of sled engine experience, but I believe you will find the correct orientation to be with the CVT driven pulley on the left, exhaust forward, carb rearward. A simple pull on the recoil will tell the tale.

yup you're right, i pulled it, and the only way you can do it is with exhaust forward, which is what i want, look at the pick i just made under here. Basically i would cut it a portion away up. And since that is the man support for the rear, i would bend some of the bar i took and weld it, but im thinking thats not very strong " yeah well with a good weld it is " but if i can just used tapered bar, why not, cause it will be even stronger if im not mistaken? This way i will have PLENTY of room for everything, but the engine is 80 lbs, so how many wheelies will i be doin? lol thanks

 

[Doc Sprocket]

"Tapered" bar? I don't follow.

With the engine too far rearward, you may have some steering/weight distribution issues. If it appears to be a problem, move the axle rearward a bit.

 

[rockstaradam123]

"Tapered" bar? I don't follow.

With the engine too far rearward, you may have some steering/weight distribution issues. If it appears to be a problem, move the axle rearward a bit.

How do i test if it is to far rearward? And what i mean by a tapered pipe is a pipe the goes down to a smaller side and will slip into the top pipe, becuase that to me i think would be more strong than a but on but end of steel