go kart build help, please :)

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McNelius

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I have a 13hp motor for my manco dingo. I am going to get a new sprocket on the jackshaft, and on the axle. I'm thinking 15/60. I'm ordering a comet 500 series clutch.
The shaft on the motor is 1" so I am getting the driver clutch at 1", and the driven at 3/4" to fit the jackshaft.
I was just curious about the sprockets and chains. I am reading about 35 or 40/41 chains but then read that those are going to wear out fast on the kart.

Do the sprockets work with any chain? or if it says 35, it's ONLY 35?
Anyone have some advice on the chain size?

thanks.
 

frederic

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40/41 have the same pitch, but different widths, 41 being narrower. Some sprockets are compatible with both chains, others are 41 only because of the narrower width.

Here is how ANSI chain numbers work.

There are 14 sizes of chain, each representing an additional 1/8" in distance between the centers of the link pins. This is the "chain pitch". Multiple the left digits of the chain designation by 3.175mm

For example: #40 chain = 4 * 3.175 = 12.70 mm pitch = 0.500 inches = 1/2" pitch.

The last digit represents the chain type. 0 is a roller chain. 1 is a "light duty" roller chain. A 5 means no rollers, bushings only (this is common in smaller chains where making rollers that small is cost prohibitive)

There are also chains smaller than #25 all the way downto almost microscopic as well as chains where the links are over a foot long, though it's very unlikely the common man will ever see chain with foot long links. Typically that's only used in mining.

Now that we've covered chains, know that the sprocket's chain pitch diameter has to match the chain or it's not going to fit. Chain pitch diameter is *not* the overall diameter of the sprocket and while that's sounds like a minor detail, it's a very important characteristic when you're trying to make housings, sleeves, and guards for sprockets that are tight fitting for the most safety.

The material for sprockets can be many - mild steel, aluminum or any of the alloys like 6061, 4130 alloy steel, plastics, carbon fiber or any of the other resin impregnated materials, and so on.

Mild steel generally lasts longer than plain aluminum, but aluminum can be easily hard-anodized with various coatings where they will outlast mild steel. One can also heat treat steel and shot-peen the surface for additional strength. Assuming of course you need to. Aluminum is much lighter than steel however, and for some high RPM applications that is a useful characteristic to drive you towards aluminum sprockets.
 

McNelius

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okay. well for the number of teeth. I would like a good top speed, but it's more for just flat land and i like to start moving fast. so acceleration is more important but I would still like to be able to go anywhere from 40-50mph. or more? :)

I am so far thinking about a 60 tooth on the axle and a 14 tooth on the jackshaft.

It's a 13hp motor that I am putting on, and it will be governed. I believe the tires are like 19" tall.

is that a good combination? I've been trying to read up and learn about gear ratios. But i don't know how these numbers feel. like a 4.00 gear ratio compared to 6.00

I don't wanna get to my top speed fast and feel no top end. but i'd prefer more on the low end to zip around.

Thanks,
Corey.
 

sixburgh

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keep your gear ratio around 5.40 to 6.00 That will work well with a torque converter. My daughters cart has a modified Tecumseh 6.0 hp......pushing 13 hp with a TAV2 30 series. It hits 40 - 44 mph with a 6.00 gear (9 and 54).......and accelerates great. I'm changing the "driven" spring to delay the up-shift a bit.
 

sixburgh

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keep your gear ratio around 5.40 to 6.00 That will work well with a torque converter. My daughters cart has a modified Tecumseh 6.0 hp......pushing 13 hp with a TAV2 30 series. It hits 40 - 44 mph with a 6.00 gear (9 and 54).......and accelerates great. I'm changing the "driven" spring to delay the up-shift a bit.

It has 20" rear tires.
 

McNelius

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oh man, i wish you would have come around a bit earlier. i ordered the 60/14.
I'll put it on, test it out and see if i like it. If not I will go bigger :)

Thanks for the advice though. and ill keep those numbers in mind.
 

skid20

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40/41 have the same pitch, but different widths, 41 being narrower. Some sprockets are compatible with both chains, others are 41 only because of the narrower width.

Here is how ANSI chain numbers work.

There are 14 sizes of chain, each representing an additional 1/8" in distance between the centers of the link pins. This is the "chain pitch". Multiple the left digits of the chain designation by 3.175mm

For example: #40 chain = 4 * 3.175 = 12.70 mm pitch = 0.500 inches = 1/2" pitch.

The last digit represents the chain type. 0 is a roller chain. 1 is a "light duty" roller chain. A 5 means no rollers, bushings only (this is common in smaller chains where making rollers that small is cost prohibitive)

There are also chains smaller than #25 all the way downto almost microscopic as well as chains where the links are over a foot long, though it's very unlikely the common man will ever see chain with foot long links. Typically that's only used in mining.

Now that we've covered chains, know that the sprocket's chain pitch diameter has to match the chain or it's not going to fit. Chain pitch diameter is *not* the overall diameter of the sprocket and while that's sounds like a minor detail, it's a very important characteristic when you're trying to make housings, sleeves, and guards for sprockets that are tight fitting for the most safety.

The material for sprockets can be many - mild steel, aluminum or any of the alloys like 6061, 4130 alloy steel, plastics, carbon fiber or any of the other resin impregnated materials, and so on.

Mild steel generally lasts longer than plain aluminum, but aluminum can be easily hard-anodized with various coatings where they will outlast mild steel. One can also heat treat steel and shot-peen the surface for additional strength. Assuming of course you need to. Aluminum is much lighter than steel however, and for some high RPM applications that is a useful characteristic to drive you towards aluminum sprockets.

Human encyclopedia.........Excellent. :thumbsup:
 

sixburgh

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No problem...

oh man, i wish you would have come around a bit earlier. i ordered the 60/14.
I'll put it on, test it out and see if i like it. If not I will go bigger :)

Thanks for the advice though. and ill keep those numbers in mind.

You might be ok with the torque of the 13hp. Remember......if you have a larger displacement with more torque, you can gear higher.
 

McNelius

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You might be ok with the torque of the 13hp. Remember......if you have a larger displacement with more torque, you can gear higher.

I did not know that actually. I'm just learning about gear ratios and all of that stuff. Well like I said I will try it out, but maybe change it up later. About how high can I go with a 13HP motor without slowing it up too much?
 

sixburgh

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Well, with gearing, a higher final number (axle gear/clutch gear)....is a lower gear. Your 60/14 equals a 4.29 final drive. My daughters 54/9 equals a 6.00 final drive.....hence a higher number is a lower or "deeper" gear. It really depends on the torque rating of your engine, the total moving weight of the cart and the type of terrain that you will be driving on. I like a torque converter for any type of terrain. Nearly a 3 to 1 reduction off idle to a .90 overdrive......so my daughter's cart starts out with a 1800 gear (600 x 3) to climb hills and shifts to a 540 gear for top speed. They work great when properly maintained.
 
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