Need help I have a predator 212 I cleaned carb and having trouble with it to get it going it will idle with choke off but once I give it gas it will die but give it half choke it will run fine so can some one give me some advice plz and the governor is hooked up
Go cart won't run
- Thread starter ernest
- Start date
Rat
Well-known member
Is there a screw on the flange of the carb or a notch with a Welch plug?
You say it dies on throttle, unless running half choke which is saying it's too lean.
Lean could be a leak (intake gasket, o'ring, cracked isolator plate) too small of a main jet or the mixture screw in too far.
Proper tuning of the mixture screws it to turn it in as far as it will go without cranking it tight, then back it out 2 full turns (this is default)
Tuning procedure is letting it get up to running temp before adjusting, set the idle a bit higher than normal and then adjust the mixture screw to achieve the highest rpm it can give you before backing the idle stop back to the lowest rpm it can hold smoothly
Don't have an adjustable air screw
Don't have an adjustable air screw
Is there a screw on the flange of the carb or a notch with a Welch plug?View attachment 147233
You say it dies on throttle, unless running half choke which is saying it's too lean.
Lean could be a leak (intake gasket, o'ring, cracked isolator plate) too small of a main jet or the mixture screw in too far.
Proper tuning of the mixture screws it to turn it in as far as it will go without cranking it tight, then back it out 2 full turns (this is default)
Tuning procedure is letting it get up to running temp before adjusting, set the idle a bit higher than normal and then adjust the mixture screw to achieve the highest rpm it can give you before backing the idle stop back to the lowest rpm it can hold smoothly
Speedster
Active member
That is so annoying when they do that! It seems that they were designed with no thought to the people who will have to work on them. I have worked on several engines with carbs with no adjusting screws, and unless there is something big I have missed, the three options are :
1. Replace the carb. Generally, they are pretty affordable. Try to find one with adjustment screws, so that when this happens again you can adjust it.
2. Leave the choke on, and you just have to deal with it. That is never ideal.
3. You may be able to drill the main jet larger. That will let more fuel into the throat. That is not ideal either, and there is a possibility of ruining the carb worse than it is.
Hope this helps!
Denny
Canned Monster
Or you could try cleaning the carb again and cleaning all holes with a wire bread tie with the paper removed?
Speedster
Active member
Good point. You could take it apart and get a small piece of wire and clean every single little hole. To do that, you might need to get a rebuild kit, or just purchase the non-reusable components. (If it has any. Most carbs use welch plugs, for instance, which you can't reuse.) However, that might not fix the issue. Considering the cost of parts, it might be better to get a new carb, which is more sure-thing than trying to troubleshoot it.
Check these links out: Carburetor and Carb Rebuild Parts I couldn't find any kits with welch plugs, so maybe it doesn't have them. I personally would buy the new carb. Hope this helps!
Rat
Well-known member
I'd replace it with a better carb.
The lack of. Mixture screw is part of tamper proofing... it's not that they don't think; they simply do not want whatever to go any faster than they set it for.
The lack of. Mixture screw is part of tamper proofing... it's not that they don't think; they simply do not want whatever to go any faster than they set it for.
Speedster
Active member
Rat
Well-known member
OMFG YOURE JOKING RIGHT?!?!? Please tell me youre not that stupid?
NO it absolutely is not planned anything but tamperproofing.
It's litteraly the same exact carb (by design alone) as every carb used since the OHV/OHC lawn/equipment engines came into exsistance over 2 decades ago. Doesn't matter if it's a Hauyi, Ruixing, or some no name casting.
They simply don't want anyone playing with the carb settings to make it faster and that's all there is to it.
The carb on my Coleman CT200U-EX has brass screws (mixture and idle) that were intentionally cut and ground by the factory... even the main jet has a 1way interface so that it cannot be removed.
Still the same carb as a box stock Predator212, Ducar, Honda, Duramax, or any other regardless.
Speedster
Active member
NO it absolutely is not planned anything but tamperproofing.
Take people like Ernest and I. Our non-adjustable carb stops working. What do we do? We buy a new carb. The stores make money. And, no doubt, when some peoples carbs stop working they get a new engine. Vs a Honda, for instance, or an older carb, you reach down and turn that little screw. If I was riding along on a go-kart with an adjustable carb, and I started adjusting it, all that will happen is I will make it run worse. (If it was running well to start with.) If I want to raise the rpm's, I will go to the governor. Once I have bypassed that and have the engine screaming as high as it will go, then maybe I can adjust it higher using the needle.
BTW, I am not arguing!
I am engaging in good-natured (on my part), friendly (on my part), debate. 
I hope this finds you well!
Take people like Ernest and I. Our non-adjustable carb stops working. What do we do? We buy a new carb. The stores make money. And, no doubt, when some peoples carbs stop working they get a new engine. Vs a Honda, for instance, or an older carb, you reach down and turn that little screw. If I was riding along on a go-kart with an adjustable carb, and I started adjusting it, all that will happen is I will make it run worse. (If it was running well to start with.) If I want to raise the rpm's, I will go to the governor. Once I have bypassed that and have the engine screaming as high as it will go, then maybe I can adjust it higher using the needle.
BTW, I am not arguing!
I am engaging in good-natured (on my part), friendly (on my part), debate. I hope this finds you well!
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Rat
Well-known member
That's not how a mixture screw works AT ALL.NO it absolutely is not planned anything but tamperproofing.
Take people like Ernest and I. Our non-adjustable carb stops working. What do we do? We buy a new carb. The stores make money. And, no doubt, when some peoples carbs stop working they get a new engine. Vs a Honda, for instance, or an older carb, you reach down and turn that little screw. If I was riding along on a go-kart with an adjustable carb, and I started adjusting it, all that will happen is I will make it run worse. (If it was running well to start with.) If I want to raise the rpm's, I will go to the governor. Once I have bypassed that and have the engine screaming as high as it will go, then maybe I can adjust it higher using the needle.
BTW, I am not arguing!
It is a set it and forget it until you change something major enough to readjust (head swap, exhaust change etc) as for anything else it still comes down to liabilities against the company.
If they made an easy to tune faster set up and some 10yo plowed their mini bike 35mph under the a★send of a truck because the brakes couldn't stop the damn thing at that speed...
THAT BECOMES A LAWSUIT
Speedster
Active member
Or the engine gets old and starts to wear out and needs adjusting, or it gets cleaned, or it starts to get gummed up, etc.
How about the governor? If I was a 10yo, (which I am not
) that is what I would go for. It sure ain't tamperproof. The mixture needles don't limit the engine to 3,600.A lifetime mechanic who recently sold a small engine repair/sales business, and who I know personally, said it is. They are not made to be worked on.
Hope this finds you well!
(fingers crossed)Denny
Canned Monster
You both are right and make valid points.
Speedster
Active member
Good compromise. We're both right!
Denny
Canned Monster
Not a compromise, just a fact.
Speedster
Active member
ssshhh... for Rat it's a compromise. (if he accepts it)
Rat
Well-known member
Just Facts... tamperproofing means keep yer d★ckbeaters off, it isn't to be tuned.ssshhh... for Rat it's a compromise. (if he accepts it)
Of course I just swap parts and do it anyway but not everyone does that.
Speedster
Active member
Speedster
Active member
Here is a comment I found while looking at a video. I was looking at this video because I am trying to fix a mower that has a carb with no adjustment screws. Just thought it sums it up. BTW, I did not write this comment! 
Here it is:
You can thank the EPA for making carburetors/engines run so incredibly lean, and without any ability to adjust the idle mixture, or high speed mixture in any way ! This problem starts to show up in engines at roughly two and a half years, to three years of service depending on use. While everything is new, and tight, and running within the tight EPA restrictions, everything is just fine, however, once the engine begins to wear itself in, ( not worn out in any way ) and compression drops slightly, and vacuum drops off slightly, these engines begin to start starving for fuel ! ( surging and popping through the carburetor ) Even replacement of the carburetor with a brand new carburetor will not correct this problem ! It is my belief that this is done intensionally, forcing the public to purchase a new unit entirely, or be facing a rather large service invoice ! Thank you for your valuable video ! Most people have no idea what to, or where to begin !
Here it is:You can thank the EPA for making carburetors/engines run so incredibly lean, and without any ability to adjust the idle mixture, or high speed mixture in any way ! This problem starts to show up in engines at roughly two and a half years, to three years of service depending on use. While everything is new, and tight, and running within the tight EPA restrictions, everything is just fine, however, once the engine begins to wear itself in, ( not worn out in any way ) and compression drops slightly, and vacuum drops off slightly, these engines begin to start starving for fuel ! ( surging and popping through the carburetor ) Even replacement of the carburetor with a brand new carburetor will not correct this problem ! It is my belief that this is done intensionally, forcing the public to purchase a new unit entirely, or be facing a rather large service invoice ! Thank you for your valuable video ! Most people have no idea what to, or where to begin !
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Speedster
Active member
BTW, not trying to revive an old thread. Or kick a dead dog or anything. I just thought it would provide additional clarification to one possible position of this friendly, scientific, 100% G-rated debate.