Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
Pics of everything. But you can do just a video of the problem areas.Do you want just the torque converter in video or the whole rear of go cart?
Pics of everything. But you can do just a video of the problem areas.Do you want just the torque converter in video or the whole rear of go cart?
Got it. Give me a second to do so. Do I have to upload it to youtube or can I just upload it here?You have to be our eyes.
The more you can show us the better.
Gotta host the video on YT or some other site. Pics can go here.Got it. Give me a second to do so. Do I have to upload it to youtube or can I just upload it here?
So I bought it off someone and everything on it was original. The motor was sputtering and not running great so I got a new one but when it ran it ran great. Since I removed the motor I haven’t been riding it.Gotta host the video on YT or some other site. Pics can go here.
Did this problem occur recently? Did the kart drive normally before?
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Manco Dingo
Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.youtube.com
So here is the link for the video. Yes I know that black piece behind the torque converter shouldn’t be bouncing but I’m missing a bolt for it and haven’t gotten around to getting one on it. I also know there is a socket on the exhaust manifold I CANT GET IT OFF.
That was full throttle with the throttle but it’s not reaching actual full throttle on the carb. But I’m not sure how to fix that. I have a nibbi carb replacement that I was going to put on after I drain oil and finish breaking it in.Ok. Good video.
Everything looks to be functional.
Was that full throttle?
I saw in your other post you had issues with the cable.
Take the air box off and look inside to see if the carb is opening all the way.
And which one is the secondary?I don’t think your secondary CVT is put together right. And yes those 3 belts for a dollar Amazon specials are junk. Comet belts are 10X cheaper in the long run.
He does have the ramps in the right position.I don’t think your secondary CVT is put together right. And yes those 3 belts for a dollar Amazon specials are junk. Comet belts are 10X cheaper in the long run.
Interesting I don’t know how it would be setup wrong I didn’t mess with taking it apart.He does have the ramps in the right position.
The primary or driver unit is on the engine.
The secondary or driven is the rear most in your set up.
my cable is adjustable in 2 places it is adjustable at the pedal where it gets held and at the other end near the motor.Cable adjustment.
With the carb closed and the pedal all the way back the cable should be just barely loose. No tention at all but not sloppy.
Then with the pedal all the way down the carb should be at wide open.
If you have the stock dingo pedals there should be 3 holes that you can attach the cable too.
The further away from the pivot the more travel you will get and open the carb more.
You dont want the carb to be the stop though. You want the pedal to stop travel first.
Is your cable adjustable? Either a barrel nut in line or an adjuster on the frame where the cable sheath gets held.
Alright I’ll work on setting throttle cable. I don’t think I have the right one or maybe I’m doing it completely wrong but it doesn’t spring back and it doesn’t open the carb all the way.One thing at a time.
Get it where you can reliably drive around before making more changes.
That way your not fighting 2 issues that could compound each other.
Get your throttle cable set first and see if that helps.
Im also gonna assume the nibbi will take a different cable end than you have on the stock carb. It was in my case.
Okay I’m away from the house right now so when I get back I’ll post on here.Pics.
Both ends. A good pedal shot, the adjusters, and some of the carb side.
You need a return spring.
There are many ways to put one. We can advise how when we see.