Gas tank sealer

[Jin Da Bull]

Got a Briggs engine. Tore it down to rebuild. It's in good shape except the gas tank had some pin holes on the bottom. I took some JB steelstik to it and it repaired nicely. However I'm wondering if I should go the extra mile and seal the inside?

For extra info, whoever had it before thought it was a good idea to just take a rattle can to the whole outside of the engine. So when I tore it down I had the steel parts burned off to remove everything. The inside of the tank looked a bit rough so its filled with vinegar at the moment to get it as clean as I can.

 

[7thofa2nd]

Yeah, I'd say go the extra mile and seal the inside. I used Red-Kote on a couple gas tanks myself. There may be better products out there if anyone else has tried several other brands to compair them. It worked just fine for me.

 

[Jin Da Bull]

Yeah, I'd say go the extra mile and seal the inside. I used Red-Kote on a couple gas tanks myself. There may be better products out there if anyone else has tried several other brands to compair them. It worked just fine for me.

I was thinking red kote. So many people swear by it. Thank you.

 

[7thofa2nd]

I was thinking red kote. So many people swear by it. Thank you.

Good... that's the same reason why I went with it. It came highly recommended. After I filled it with muratic acid and let it set overnight, I rinsed it out with hot water and baking soada, then put about a cup of lacquer thinner in the tank and swished it all around to clean it real good, let it dry (which didn't take long at all) then poured the Red-Kote in and tilted the tank in all directions to coat it everywhere inside, pour the rest back in the can, then let it dry overnight.

 

[Jin Da Bull]

I already did the vinegar move so ill let that fight the gunk a bit. I also looked up videos and saw people doing baking soda to neutralize. I'll do the same but then I saw people chasing that with something like purple power or simple green for a final clean/rinse. Does it make a difference other than drying time?

 

[7thofa2nd]

I already did the vinegar move so ill let that fight the gunk a bit. I also looked up videos and saw people doing baking soda to neutralize. I'll do the same but then I saw people chasing that with something like purple power or simple green for a final clean/rinse. Does it make a difference other than drying time?

I'm sure there are many methods used... the main thing is, you want a clean surface and for it to be dry when you seal it.
You're doing good.

 

[Denny]

Use baking soda to neutralize the vinegar. You might want to add some nuts or something to rattle around in there for extra scouring power.

 

[Jin Da Bull]

Use baking soda to neutralize the vinegar. You might want to add some nuts or something to rattle around in there for extra scouring power.

I got some nuts in there. I just filled it yesterday. Giving it a good shake session about 2-3 times a day. Ill dump it in about 3 days or so and see if it needs another round or not. Unless I should go longer?

 

[7thofa2nd]

Use baking soda to neutralize the vinegar. You might want to add some nuts or something to rattle around in there for extra scouring power.

That's why I like muratic acid... the next morning it's bare metal.

 

[Jin Da Bull]

Well I will put that muratic acid tip if it still looks ugly in a few days. I got the engine and frame back in January and all I've done is break down the engine. It was just too damn cold here to do any projects. Now that is nice I'm going at it but not in a big rush. Just want to get it right the first time.

 

[Denny]

Sounds like you got it handled!

 

[Jin Da Bull]

Well, I thought so too.

I checked on the tank to give it a good shake and I noticed a leak. So one of two things went wrong here. Either JB weld and vinegar don't mix or I didnt scuff the steel enough for the JB to stick.

Either way I rinse and neutralized the vinegar, Oven dried the tank to remove moisture (rainy day today) and when its good and ready ill just have to sand off that jb weld scuff it better and try again.

This time muratic acid will be the approach. Glad it happened this way and not while its running.

 

[7thofa2nd]

Well, I thought so too.

I checked on the tank to give it a good shake and I noticed a leak. So one of two things went wrong here. Either JB weld and vinegar don't mix or I didnt scuff the steel enough for the JB to stick.

Either way I rinse and neutralized the vinegar, Oven dried the tank to remove moisture (rainy day today) and when its good and ready ill just have to sand off that jb weld scuff it better and try again.

This time muratic acid will be the approach. Glad it happened this way and not while its running.

JB weld has a wide variety of products... you may want to research for one that will hold up to various chemicals. Speaking from experience, I've had that problem before.

 

[Jin Da Bull]

JB weld has a wide variety of products... you may want to research for one that will hold up to various chemicals. Speaking from experience, I've had that problem before.

Do you think if I just tape up the existing jb weld and run the acid through to clean the gunk first then redo the jb weld?

 

[ThunderKart79]

I sandblast gravestones my wife and I work for ourselves so anyhow I have cut like a 3”x4” out of the top sandblasted the complete inside then I weld the peice back in and I used this product that sealed the inside wîth 2 coats applied it would even fill and seal small holes I do not remember the name of the sealer I just goggled internal gas tank sealer/paint the product was like $25 for a quart but I will restore any metal gas tank now I am a horrible welder but the sealer I used was awesome it was like a combination of an epoxy and paint and it is supposed to hold up to 120 octane nothing cleans as well as a sandblasting setup it truly makes steal new agin

 

[Hellion]

^^ It might have been POR-15 fuel tank sealer. https://por15.com/products/fuel-tank-sealer
They also sell a whole motorcycle fuel tank repair kit with cleaner, etching solution and sealer. That half pint can of sealer actually goes a long way.

I think the OP did his fuel tank in the wrong order: clean, de-rust, prep everything, then JB Weld, then seal.

 

[madprofessor]

JBWeld specifically recommends their product that's a Steel Reinforced Epoxy Putty named "SteelStik" for fuel tanks. It dries dark gray in 5 minutes, cures in 1 hour, has 900 psi. tensile strength, resists all normal fuels and oils, goes to 300 F., $7.99 on jbweld.com............
Basically identical is "TankWeld" for fuel tanks, $5.99 on site, or $14.99 for a kit.
Interesting note: They say sand to bare metal of course, but with their sandpaper in the kit (must be fairly coarse) it gives a better adhesion than to just smooth metal.

 

[Foxdie]

Am I blind, or is that tank damaged in a way? Probably the photo isn't that good, and the tank is just old. But, I still suppose it is damaged, and I'm worried about what could happen at the subsequent usage. I had a similar situation to yours. Suppose you want to see it check window leaks. There you'll see what issues I got there. Make sure to visit the services and check if your tank is alright. Drive safe!

 

[madprofessor]

Be careful with that muriatic acid. My Dad used a 10% solution he had on my finger that was cut to the bone, to cauterize it until we could get to the hospital. Only 6 years old then, but I can still remember hearing my own screams like it was yesterday.
Wear goggles first, put on gloves and full coverage clothing after. And yes, it'll burn your hair off.

 

[itsid]

Well I face a similar problem currently with my sis' motorbike..
Anyways.. vinegar and much less citric acid MUST be sealed afterwards since as far as I understood both activate the steel and allow for an even quicker build up of rust.
NOW coke to the rescue.. phosphoric acid to be precise that passivates the steel and leaves a phosphate layer which slows the build up of rust down. No immediate tank sealing needed.

And while I already picked a tank sealer (single component to have a loooong open time to get it into all nooks and crannies)
and it doesn't need a rough surface to grip on since I surely cannot sand the inside of the tank first
(german stuff from a munich classic car shop.. "Original MOS Tankversiegelung" available on amazon [at least in germany ])
Since some internetfolk warned about some tank sealers not being ethanol or acid proof and others just chip off after some time (some said)

And then there was that chemist that said.. "yeah since they all used the WRONG acid... use phosphoric instead and you won't need any sealer"
with the tank in question being still free of leaks of course
So I looked at some phosphoric acid derusting videos on yt and I'm fairly certain that's what will happen as soon as the weather prevents my sister from riding her bike

'sid