Gas powered Powerwheels John Deere tractor

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Jasonrk99

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All I can say is I got this little tractor for free. Ripped out all the electrical components, so everything is down to the plastics. Putting a 212 with a torque converter on it, just to it’ll spin the plastic “tires” super easy. MINI DRIFT TRACTOR is the idea I have in mind, and my deadline to build it is May 4, my last day of school. Gonna drive it around.:wai:

I have the axle almost complete. It is a 1/2” steel rod (I know, only a half inch :idea2:) but I’m not gonna go into detail why I’m using a 1/2” rod. SO, I need as much help as possible finding a 1/2” ID sproket to fit on this axle. If you find it, copy the link and post it below. I’ve been looking, just perhaps in the wrong place.

Thanks everyone, help me make this happen. I’m super exited
 

Jasonrk99

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Here are some pics. First, me and the boys cleaned it up after getting it for free from goodwill. They were throwing it out. Then, last night it stuck the predator on it. I’ll be building the metal frame tonight, completely hidden under the plastic. The next big step is getting the 1/2” bore sprocket. Any and all help is much appreciated. Thanks y’all!
 

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TT540

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I have the same power wheels, but modified for more batteries. There exists a pedal equivalent that would have been the perfect starting point for you as it already has a sprocket and chain and chain supports. But for free and your time deadline, you are in it to win it.

Bonus points if the original throttle works!

I'm curious to know how you are going to make the wheels attach to the axle. For all power wheels, the axle is just a floating thing that supports weight and the motor/gearbox drive the wheels directly @ each wheel. The pedal cart version uses a U shaped piece of steel that is welded onto the axle near the ends and then inserted into the plastic wheel. Much like a chicken on a rotisserie.
 

nascarnation

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My grandkids have a couple of Barbie Jeeps, you're right about the hard plastic tires, those things on pavement have about the same coefficient as metal on ice. A 212 with the Comet drive will be spin city. You could use a 1/4 inch axle and not have to worry about torque overload LOL. Good luck!
 

Jasonrk99

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What's the chain pitch? How many teeth?

Here's a #35, 10 tooth: https://www.rollerchain4less.com/35...0DFAGbzkGO2QD9chy_kfxdggXLE29bJEaAuLbEALw_wcB

Also a search term trick: (chain pitch)BS(# teeth). The above was found by searching for 35BS10 ("BS" stands for Bored to Size)

I have a #35 12 tooth on the torque converter already. If I put a 10tooth on the axle that’d be overdrive lol. Way too fast for plastic wheels

---------- Post added at 10:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:02 AM ----------

I have the same power wheels, but modified for more batteries. There exists a pedal equivalent that would have been the perfect starting point for you as it already has a sprocket and chain and chain supports. But for free and your time deadline, you are in it to win it.

Bonus points if the original throttle works!

I'm curious to know how you are going to make the wheels attach to the axle. For all power wheels, the axle is just a floating thing that supports weight and the motor/gearbox drive the wheels directly @ each wheel. The pedal cart version uses a U shaped piece of steel that is welded onto the axle near the ends and then inserted into the plastic wheel. Much like a chicken on a rotisserie.

I removed ALL the electrical stuff- wiring, motors, “gearboxes”, switches. It’s just a plastic shell, under which I will be building a metal frame, most likely out of angle iron. The axle will spin inside of two 1/2” pillow block bearings that will be mounted to the frame.

I’ll post pictures of the hubs I made for the plastic wheels later. Thanks for the help
 

mckutzy

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Is this a keyed shaft being used for the axle??
If not I reckon it'll spin the sprocket on the shaft...before you get moving...
 

Jasonrk99

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Is this a keyed shaft being used for the axle??
If not I reckon it'll spin the sprocket on the shaft...before you get moving...

Nope. Just a 1/2” rod, and of course it’ll spin, I’m not that blind. I’m either gonna weld the sprocket or the key to the 1/2” rod. Probably the latter, in case I need to move the sprocket laterally on the axle. Also the sprocket I think I’m going to order is a W-series, #35 pitch, with a 1/2” bore hub. (Sprocket hub and the sprocket itself are separate, must be welded together. This makes it easier than trying to find a sprocket with everything you need- just the right bore, teeth, chain pitch, etc. Build it yourself)
 

TT540

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When building the frame, it would be cool to put on a wheelie bar out back. Put a skateboard wheel or caster wheel. Non functional, but fun. Just do not make it so long that you cannot load it into your vehicle.

Such a picture as that could go viral on tractor forums. Lol.
 

Jasonrk99

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When building the frame, it would be cool to put on a wheelie bar out back. Put a skateboard wheel or caster wheel. Non functional, but fun. Just do not make it so long that you cannot load it into your vehicle.

Such a picture as that could go viral on tractor forums. Lol.

Good idea lol I’ve been thinking about it. The seat I’ll be sitting on is above the rear wheels. The gear ratio is 1:6. 212 with GPS jet and air filter, will have a stack exhaust like a tractor lol (straight up). Has a TAV.

Maybe it’ll wheelie? If I lean back it might actually lift the front end. This is my new goal lol. Can’t wait
 

Quinc

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Check out modifiedpowerwheels forum for lots of info on adding tires.
http://forum.modifiedpowerwheels.com/viewtopic.php?t=4474

Also might find some good info here on building frames etc for powerwheels.
http://www.powerracingseries.org/

 

Jasonrk99

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Here are some pics of the axle and the t-shaped key stock I hat to make. The keyway on the wheel hubs and sprocket hub are 1/4" but the keyway on the axle was 3/16".
 

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