"Fun" Power Aftermarket?

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vozzy

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Did anyone ever make HIPO parts for B&S 5 HP Fun Power engines? Also, how close are these engines to the Raptor 3's?
 

solomon

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They are just standard 5hp briggs engines. Many upgrades available. I believe that is a "kool boor" model engine. Whats your budget? You can pull the governor and get stronger valve springs and a billet rod. Straight Pipe, cam lifters, milled head, porting.
 

Blazkowiez

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Before you consider modifying a Briggs 5 make sure it is dual bearing, otherwise it will not be worth putting money into it.
 

solomon

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Why? Most Fun Power Models are dual bushing blocks. Bushings hold up fine to around 7500 RPM if i recall correctly. All my Briggs 5hp were dual bushing blocks and they worked great.
 

Blazkowiez

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Why? Most Fun Power Models are dual bushing blocks. Bushings hold up fine to around 7500 RPM if i recall correctly. All my Briggs 5hp were dual bushing blocks and they worked great.

When you look at your case where your output shaft is, what do you see?
 

solomon

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The oil seal. And on the inside of the engine on the side cover their is just a bushing. These engines work fine.
 

Blazkowiez

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A great deal of the standard 5hp Briggs you'll see a dual bushing set-up, on some you will see 1 side of the crank on the inside of the engine sits in a bushing, the other rides on a bearing. On industrial and raptor blocks they have 2 bearings which support the shaft which allows for better operation at higher rpm and enhanced lifespan of the engine itself. When racing Briggs engines were popular in Houston 5-10 years ago we couldn't keep dual bearing blocks on the shelf at 100 dollars a block. I've edited this because what I said did not make as much sense as it should have.
 

solomon

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I can take pics..... I have several engines that are dual bushing NO BEARING that run fine at 5500 RPM so far. And should hold up fine at 7000
 

Blazkowiez

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Solomon, have you had one blow up yet? Please also tell me how you know you have 5500 rpm... have you attached a Tachometer to one of these engines yet?
 
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Blazkowiez

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Just for clarification unless you are not understanding my argument. I do not feel it is worth placing aftermarket parts on a Briggs without dual bearings. I look at what you put into the engine and how well it will hold up to stress considering the investment.
 

solomon

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I have had one engine go and it was due to the connecting rod not having the metal tab lock installed on it. The motor was still fine and only the bottom of the rod came apart. I reused the block and it worked out fine. I assume 5500 Because i can tell valves are floating. It is completely worth removing the gov. and adding a billet rod and heavier springs. Porting and milling the head as well. I don't think a cam would be a good idea on this engine now that I think about it. That motor will go A LONG TIME if he adds a billet rod and pulls the gov.
 

newrider3

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Just for clarification unless you are not understanding my argument. I do not feel it is worth placing aftermarket parts on a Briggs without dual bearings. I look at what you put into the engine and how well it will hold up to stress considering the investment.

If you drill some extra oiling holes, and are very careful with your motor, a plain bushing block will work just fine. That is all they had back in the day.

A somewhat more readily available block would be a single bearing, DU bushing block. Bearing in the sidecover, and an actual bushing installed in the flywheel side.
 

oscaryu1

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If you drill some extra oiling holes, and are very careful with your motor, a plain bushing block will work just fine. That is all they had back in the day.

A somewhat more readily available block would be a single bearing, DU bushing block. Bearing in the sidecover, and an actual bushing installed in the flywheel side.

And welded the lifter bore. That ^ 's exactly what they did :D

A great deal of the standard 5hp Briggs you'll see a dual bushing set-up, on some you will see 1 side of the crank on the inside of the engine sits in a bushing, the other rides on a bearing. On industrial and raptor blocks they have 2 bearings which support the shaft which allows for better operation at higher rpm and enhanced lifespan of the engine itself. When racing Briggs engines were popular in Houston 5-10 years ago we couldn't keep dual bearing blocks on the shelf at 100 dollars a block. I've edited this because what I said did not make as much sense as it should have.

Bushing blocks will work fine. Need more oil? EZ Bore kit. Lots of people run them. Probably has slightly less potential than a bearing block, but works fine nonetheless.
 

Blazkowiez

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I think my main problem is that i'm spoiled. We've might have over 100 Briggs engines in the side building, If I ever did want to choose an engine to upgrade or put on a kart I think there is more than a pick of the litter. Its just one of those things to where we see so many of these that I look at what should be modified and what could be modified. I've also seen how badly these engines tear apart at high rpm, I find it hard to understand why anyone wants to jump a governor on any of these small engines.

Back on to the original subject, Vozzy. Yes, they make many after-market parts for your engine.
 
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