Full range of tuning TC's...Done for now...Very Happy over stock

[BrownStainRacing]

So came home and this was here
View attachment 139120

Alright!!!
More testing & tuning!!!

Looking forward to see the results

 

[Bansil]

SO I took it apart, after maybe 25 miles of upper mid rpms, and decent load and with downhill coasting...

Minimal if no dry rubber, notice mark at 2 O'clock? I think it maybe be bent, the blach is a super hard dry film smooth as glass


Oil spray with rubber, almost dry film....left over OEM stuff



A little Goulding not bad probably a burr at factory

2 pcs, can't weigh them too heavy for scale over 100 grams each






SO, what gets lubed and what is dry.....?
Decided big and bold will highlight the question for future searchers...

 

[BrownStainRacing]

SO I took it apart, after maybe 25 miles of upper mid rpms, and decent load and with downhill coasting...

Minimal if no dry rubber, notice mark at 2 O'clock? I think it maybe be bent, the blach is a super hard dry film smooth as glass
View attachment 139175View attachment 139175
View attachment 139176
Oil spray with rubber, almost dry film....left over OEM stuff

View attachment 139177

A little Goulding not bad probably a burr at factory
View attachment 139178
2 pcs, can't weigh them too heavy for scale over 100 grams each






SO, what gets lubed and what is dry.....?
Decided big and bold will highlight the question for future searchers...

Looks like belt slipping when it's moving to the high side. Engine is probably bogging down a lil when it get to that point.

Move the driven spring to the next ccw hole. It'll slow the shift to high down, allowing more rpm before it gets to the high side of the t/c. It doesn't sound like you will be up in the higher mph often anyways. It should at least be 30 mph before it gets 1/2 way into the black mark.

That gauling is odd, since the weights don't have a mark on the inside of them.

Jus clean it up with sandpaper and keep an eye on it.

Looks to me it has plenty of dry lube on it. Jus lightly blow out the dust and put it back together.

What spring combo you gonna try next,???

You might wanna write the changes and results down in a note pad.
But don't do like me, clean up shop and accidentally throw out all your notes. Not funny at all!!!!!

 

[Bansil]

lol...thats why we have the internet...the note pad that doesn't get lost if we loose internet...it won't matter

I will do the black ones on the stand...as a bench mark.

And will do spring swap next after this...great eye thanks

 

[panchothedog]

Bansil. Nothing gets lubed. For good smooth shifting with the driver, work on the heavy cast piece with the 4 ears on it. Also the female piece that it slides into. Clean everything with a medium grit sandpaper. 320 ? Especially those pieces I mentioned. All around the ears on the slider, and wrap some sandpaper around a long skinny screwdriver and get the inside of the channels in the female piece where the ears ride. When you're done, brake cleaner and wipe or blow dry. CLEAN and dry. Reassemble.

 

[panchothedog]

Good idea to lube the PTO shaft of your engine before putting the driver back on. They get very hot and can get stuck on their pretty bad. There are probably many products that you can use. Myself, I use wheel bearing grease. Never fails.

 

[Bansil]

So the galling came from rubbing on the castings...cheap

You can see the rub marks near the holes the shafts are in

 

[BrownStainRacing]

So the galling came from rubbing on the castings...cheap
View attachment 139184
You can see the rub marks near the holes the shafts are in

Yeap. Can clearing see that now.

Might take a file and clean up those areas. Put em on a wire wheel and smooth things out.

When you get it tuned to your liking, get another belt. A good comet belt can make a world of difference.

 

[Bansil]

It dawned on me, how can an aluminum weight rub and gaul Steel?

So after a good cleaning and deburr, I noticed the 2 steel Pins are what is rubbing on these, so no deburr will stop that from happening.



Any ideas?

 

[Snaker]

It dawned on me, how can an aluminum weight rub and gaul Steel?

So after a good cleaning and deburr, I noticed the 2 steel Pins are what is rubbing on these, so no deburr will stop that from happening.

View attachment 139188

Any ideas?

Geez, those rods are spaced out quit a bit beyond the tube.
Try to put the flyweights in place without the spring and wiggle to see if they make contact.
Or, has that pulley ever had a spring break while running, possible allowing the fly weights to shift?

 

[Bansil]

Geez, those rods are spaced out quit a bit beyond the tube.
Try to put the flyweights in place without the spring and wiggle to see if they make contact.
Or, has that pulley ever had a spring break while running, possible allowing the fly weights to shift?

At work now and it only has about 25 miles on it, and that's what I was thinking awful far from C/L of the part?

And the parts can't come apart. drop down rub and then snap into place...I have to assume this was factory setup, I never took it apart since it was new

 

[Snaker]

Here's a lube to use on the CVT:
The amount of sling indicates that it could be cut back a bit, but its not bad.
The key is to not over lube and have it migrate to the sheave/belt area, no-good.

Comet Torque Converter Lubricant | Comet Dry Film Lube | Comet Clutch Lube (gokartsupply.com)

And DO NOT run sand paper over the thing, that removes metal.
You can check for burrs using a finger nail of some sort of sharp plastic edge.
If you find burrs, take those off with a file or sand paper, but only the burr.
If you find it necessary to clean more, use a scotch bite and wash to take off any grime, although I would live with the lube film.

Assemble the pulley minus the fly weights and spring and work it around.
This will tell you that its sliding smoothly.
If you do this from the get-go, you will gain a feel for how much sloop is normal.

 

[Bansil]

This is how wide they need to be to expose the work areas, only wore on inside
Everything slides smoothly

 

[Bansil]

So it can rub I guess?
This is the wear area



So I take it this ain't normal?

 

[Bansil]

Is this the correct way it goes back together? Flatter side down?

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Is this the correct way it goes back together? Flatter side down?
View attachment 139192

Yes that's correct.
I find it easier to roll the 1st spring on weights, install weights, roll the second spring on, then giv it a good wack with the palm of you hand. You will hear it seat against the inside.

I've got a box old t/c parts, I'll look tomorrow, but I don't remember ever seeing that gouged up like that.

Sand paper CAN be used to clean up an area. I never said any thing about taking off material.

 

[Bansil]

Well black springs are on, blue loctite 45 min. ago...cleaning car out for 60K oil and maintenance stuff...may fire up in the dark to see on a stand

 

[Bansil]

So....watch video...was about 1380/1400 rpm from the other day, since tach didn't work today.

I like it as tested...
I need to ride it

 

[BrownStainRacing]

So....watch video...was about 1380/1400 rpm from the other day, since tach didn't work today.

I like it as tested...
I need to ride it

Sweet !!!!!
A very nice low rpm chug, chug.

Good job on the carb tune to get that!!!

 

[Bansil]

Thanks, lean up high at times, going to raise float, and figure out how to get a good plug sample...with..the terrain..i .love throttle now