Full range of tuning TC's...Done for now...Very Happy over stock

Bansil

Bansil

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So after running new carb just in back yard....the stall speed is way to high for me, I have tons of torque down low, no need to Rev so high to engage for DD.

Example 434 sbc 1800 stall drivable, 3500 stall was not fun and hard on trannys with the heat.


So how can I lower stall speed?

So how can I change engagement time?


Cya later
 
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BSR#2

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Bansil said:
So after running new carb just in back yard....the stall speed is way to high for me, I have tons of torque down low, no need to Rev so high to engage for DD.

Example 434 sbc 1800 stall drivable, 3500 stall was not fun and hard on trannys with the heat.


So how can I lower stall speed?

So how can I change engagement time?


Cya later
Click to expand...
Here's a driver spring chart.

I didn't see you mention any thing about you changing driver springs earlier. The stock springs engage around 2200. Anything lower and it might not pull, or be a complete turd off the line. I go straight to 2600-3000 on stock 212s.

That carb change, gov delete will not effect rpm engagement. Might wanna double check that everything went back together right.

Google Search

www.google.com
 
Bansil

Bansil

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No, what I mean is putting around at say walking pace and 2X walking pace, that covers alot of the slow going.

And then be able to roll on throttle and go, sinceTC is alread "locked"

It has plenty of gear, she will wheely at will.
It just revs to fast before it moves which of course...is not the goal.

Striving for :unsure: mmmm mix between a trials bike and an Enduro bike.

I'm already better than before, 30/35mph is fine for me.

Still need to adjust throttle cable (need an adjuster for carb side, throttle wasn't enough)
 
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BrownStainRacing

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Bansil said:
So need to find my old tach, think it's on the boat, to get a felt baseline.
View attachment 138743

May grab some black ones which is the extreme side of things, and weigh the weights
Click to expand...
You can mix the springs for fine tuning.
When you weigh the weights, weight match them. It makes for a much smoother engagement.

I'm not sure you can get that engine to idle down to 1100-1200 rpm. Cam too big and not enough CR. Gonna loose too much fuel signal. But anything is worth trying.

I gotta tinker with a stock 196 tomorrow and i'll see how...... low I can go with it, 😆 😂 🤣.
 
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BrownStainRacing

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BrownStainRacing said:
You can mix the springs for fine tuning.
When you weigh the weights, weight match them. It makes for a much smoother engagement.

I'm not sure you can get that engine to idle down to 1100-1200 rpm. Cam too big and not enough CR. Gonna loose too much fuel signal. But anything is worth trying.

I gotta tinker with a stock 196 tomorrow and i'll see how...... low I can go with it, 😆 😂 🤣.
Click to expand...
@Bansil

I tried and failed.

I got it down to a nice steady 1000-1100 with idle speed and low speed mixture adjustment.

Doesn't sound healthy and a real pita to start, after it got warmed up. Choke and full throttle is not gonna be safe with low rpm engagement.

The low cr 7.7-8.3:1, mixed with the stock slow lazy ramped cam, jus couldnt pull (vacuum) the air/fuel mixture. Then there was nothing to compress to keep it running.

This is with stock carb (.580") and gov still working.

You might have better luck with the slide carb.

Let us know what you come up with.
 
Bansil

Bansil

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Okay, been a busy last week at work and in the garden etc.

So I am idling about 1400rpm this gives me easy start, and when throttle is snapped back it doesn't die, still need to tune the mixture some. (It doesn't feel or seem to be idling that high, but that is what tach is saying.

The T/C engages at about 2500rpms, and it's just a little violent still for pulling out or exiting a curve.

I ordered Black, Orange and pink springs to play with, plan is to trail ride some this weekend, they are just not ment to putt around on with the T/C

How would one react with a regular clutch? Still have the delay?
 
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BrownStainRacing

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Bansil said:
Okay, been a busy last week at work and in the garden etc.

So I am idling about 1400rpm this gives me easy start, and when throttle is snapped back it doesn't die, still need to tune the mixture some. (It doesn't feel or seem to be idling that high, but that is what tach is saying.

The T/C engages at about 2500rpms, and it's just a little violent still for pulling out or exiting a curve.

I ordered Black, Orange and pink springs to play with, plan is to trail ride some this weekend, they are just not ment to put around on with the T/C

How would one react with a regular clutch? Still have the delay?
Click to expand...
😆 🤣 😂 😹 😆
I LOVE IT !!!!!

When in doubt.........jus order them all. 😆 🤣 😂 😹

I dont have any problems with mine. Mines got 3000 rpm springs, creeps around maybe 10-12 mph.
If you wanna ride like an idiot, it put you on your head. But if you wanna ride it normal.... it goes normal.

My sons is 3600 rpm, (bigger cam) his is same, jus a lil higher mph creep. That's expected.

Test and tune. 👍
 
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Denny

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You want the primary clutch to engage sooner (at a lower rpm) to mellow it out. But that could create a bog. Choose the Demon you can live with.
 
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BrownStainRacing

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Bansil said:
So explain what the reverse wound spring does? There are different ones to fine tune...but, fine tune what?
Click to expand...
I don't think there's a reverse wound spring for the 30 series. Unless...it's something new,???

The driven can be tuned to hold it in low longer or shifter slower, or visa versa.
It can be tuned for heavy or light riders. Depends on gear, tires, power, terrain, that stuff.

Might wanna get the driver tuned 1st, then tune the driven.
 
Bansil

Bansil

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BrownStainRacing said:
I don't think there's a reverse wound spring for the 30 series. Unless...it's something new,???

The driven can be tuned to hold it in low longer or shifter slower, or visa versa.
It can be tuned for heavy or light riders. Depends on gear, tires, power, terrain, that stuff.

Might wanna get the driver tuned 1st, then tune the driven.
Click to expand...
Found this, makes sense combined with what you mention
BMI TC explained

Is this a good start, or is there moar in depth info available?
 
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panchothedog

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Bansil. The reverse wound spring is for the 40series converter only. I think you have a 30 series. Once you get the engagement RPM dialed in for the driver, there are 3 different stiffness of springs that can be put in the driven clutch.
Yellow, red ( most units come with this one ) and green, the stiffest. Also there are 3 different holes in the driven unit into which the spring can be inserted in.
Google some videos on tuning the 30 series torque converter. Ain't that hard to come up with a combination that you should be comfortable with. You do not want a centrifugal clutch for the type of riding that you are doing. Between different weights and springs in the driver, and different springs and adjustment
holes for the driven there are probably 40 or more combinations available.
 
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