Franken-Jeep

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lostininglewood

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I was toying with idea of entering the build off but didn't want to wait and slow down my progress, so I'll add my build thread here.

I have a few questions also that I'm not sure about:

1) I cut the rear axle to width and there is no threaded end to ensure that the hub stays in place. The hub is keyed however I feel that the end should be threaded to add the extra security. I was planning on giving the axle to a friend that works in a machine shop to have him thread it, but are there other options? I've been researching and thinking about this for a few weeks but seem to be stuck.

2) For the steering arms does the connection on the steering shaft (proper word) need to be at any specific angle? horizontal to the ground/frame or vertical?

Back story to the project:

My son has outgrown his 12v JD Gator and atv, so I've been looking for a gas powered atv for him but couldn't find anything that was reasonably priced and quality. There has been an old Peg Perego jeep sitting in my garage for the last two years which I've had intention of fixing for him but never really had the time. I was cleaning the garage and he had asked me when I'd fix his jeep for him so I figured I'll build a go-kart on a whim and us the jeep body. I will build the go kart for him and my daughters will move up the gators and atv.

I picked up the motor at local TSC (tractor supply store) and began. I cut the body in half to gain some length and set the motor in the empty shell with two 2" sections for tube holding them together, and from there it gain momentum and went from an initial plan of no suspension simple kart with smaller tires to suspension and bigger tractor/golf cart tires.

Enough of the boring stuff.

I have the rear axle test fitted with the rear wheels and am working on the steering column. I started the project about a month ago, and have designed it in my head and modified the design as I go along.
 

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firemanjim

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LOL... I forgot to come back.....
#1 you can drill a 1/4" hole on each end and beat a pin in it... :lolgoku: Then use locking collars on the inside. You could use locking collars on the outside too, really.
You can thread it too.... I'd have it threaded, if at all possible. It's better piece of mind, knowing that there is a nylock nut making sure everything stays on.... :wai:
Just what EVER you do, DON'T weld them on..... :thumbsup:

#2... It's best to be straight across. In your case, set them straight across, and make sure that they will pivot freely throughout the whole travel of the suspension. If the front only moves an 1"-2"... You should be ok..... Looks like you'd have enough length to accommodate the articulation....

#3 (my question)..... Will you post more diverse of the front end assembly? That looks quite interesting..... :thumbsup:
 

lostininglewood

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Firemanjim thanks for the reply and answers to my questions. I'll give the axle to my friend to have it threaded. I'm going to use rose joints on either end of the connection for the steering arms to accommodate any horizontal movement as 1 to 2" really will be it.

I was doing some research on front suspension and was going to go with double a-arms, however picked up the banshee shocks from a friend and due to the size it made it difficult so I did a little more research and saw that a lot of sand rails use front swing arm suspension so opted to build something similar. I think ideally the lower shock mount would be back a bit closer to the center of the front axle, however I worked with what I have and think it should work fine. If I have issue, I'll adapt.
 

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lostininglewood

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No, you got it about right. Going closer to the axle, will make the spring/shock stiffer....

Awesome!

I will be picking up some tube in the next week to build the cage. I was going to order a seat online but think I'll build my own out of steel rod (frame) and fiberglass.
 

firemanjim

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Steel tube frame. 3/4" plywood for seat bottom and back. Nice thick cushion. And some outdoor, waterproof vinyl ......
You got a staple gun? :lolgoku:
 

lostininglewood

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Steel tube frame. 3/4" plywood for seat bottom and back. Nice thick cushion. And some outdoor, waterproof vinyl ......
You got a staple gun? :lolgoku:

I was thinking about that, however I like working with fiberglass and haven't built anything with it lately. I really wanted a bomber style kirky aluminum seat but don't want to spend the money and I don't have the tools to weld aluminum. I do really want a plasma cutter and TIG welder though!

I've been working on the kart for about a month now, however I'm building a garden and greenhouse for the wife so my progress is going to slow.
 

firemanjim

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I think it would be wise to add a link between the two front arms, in front of the shocks. It would insure that they don't get whacked out of place when the tires are turned all the way. The inner wheel would pull on the outer wheel for support, in a turn. Using Heim ends will allow each side to articulate separately.
 

lostininglewood

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I think it would be wise to add a link between the two front arms, in front of the shocks. It would insure that they don't get whacked out of place when the tires are turned all the way. The inner wheel would pull on the outer wheel for support, in a turn. Using Heim ends will allow each side to articulate separately.

Thanks for the comment. I've been planning on doing exactly what you said so it's good to see that I'm on the right track.

I found a picture of a sandrail on the web that did this and it looked pretty slick. Once I have my steering linkage built and set, I'll mock something up. Do you think two each side is needed or one?
 
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