Found the perfect welder!
- Thread starter oscaryu1
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Also, when you first start welding,dont go and weld something major,because you need practice to have good,deep penetrating welds,when i first started out i thought i had decent welds but it turned out they werent so strong (dont ask).And take your time,thats a MAJOR factor when welding.
Kenny_McCormic
Kartless....
Yea practice with scrap metal and various welds, also be sure to follow the welders duty cycle (over a 10 minute span how long it can run, a welder with a 20% duty cycle can weld for a maximum of 2 minutes and must cool for the next 8).
if it overheats your welder will most likely be useless, but i've yet to overheat mine (the 90amp wirefeed from HF) and i've welded trailers and all kinds of stuff. basically my workflow (weld a bit, grind and clean up, then cut new pieces, test fit, then finally weld more) seems to undercut the duty cycle just fine so no problems there.
i'm guessing the only people who would run into trouble with duty cycles is people either welding big stuff with a strict time limit, or a project that requires welding long seams like closing up a big air tank or something like that.
i'm guessing the only people who would run into trouble with duty cycles is people either welding big stuff with a strict time limit, or a project that requires welding long seams like closing up a big air tank or something like that.
Kenny_McCormic
Kartless....
Duty cycle is how long it can safely run before it has to cool down. Its based on a 10 minute span, a 15% duty cycle means you can weld 1.5 minutes and then you have to spend 8.5 letting it cool down. Most have overheat protection circuitry (torch goes dead and a light comes on)
Steel is typically more shiny and higher quality.Iron will be darker and more rough.Its pretty easy to tell the difference.I personally dont have any problem welding iron. Try to stay away from welding hardened things with zinc coating (toxic) and things with paint or plastic.Weld in a ventilated area cus them fumes can really get to you haha.
Yeah, steel and iron are magnetic, and aluminum is not, so if it sticks to a magnet and is in your garage, its probably steel, if it sticks to a magnet and it's a rock shaped thing, it's iron and might have come from space......
Yeah don't weld anything galvonized inside, do it either outside, or under a vent hood. And if you see this while you are welding 
it's time to pack in. 
If you are going to weld to something painted again either do it outside, or under a vent hood, or get paintstripper, or wirebrush+angle grinder.
Yeah don't weld anything galvonized inside, do it either outside, or under a vent hood. And if you see this while you are welding it's time to pack in. If you are going to weld to something painted again either do it outside, or under a vent hood, or get paintstripper, or wirebrush+angle grinder.
Are you wanting to build a bike frame, or practice welding on an old one? Generally if you're building a bike frame you'd use thin walled 4130 cr-mo and TIG weld it. You can practice welding on an old mild steel walmart bike frame, but you'll burn through a ton.
anything thats the right metal. if its ferrous (easy test: sticks to magnets) it's most likely weldable. stainless steel doesn't stick to magnets, but its really hard to weld with flux anyway, so no go there. dont bother with aluminum, too hard with flux type welder if at all possible reliably.
most cheap motorcycles or bicycles are steel frames, and most stuff you'll probable run across thats cheap is steel. if its rusty and doesnt weigh a ton, it's fair game.
most cheap motorcycles or bicycles are steel frames, and most stuff you'll probable run across thats cheap is steel. if its rusty and doesnt weigh a ton, it's fair game.
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