Found a nice project motor but....

Mccartercar

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So today Im at tractor supply getting goodies and I spotted this 190cc pressure washer that was marked down from 450 to 50. Says it had an oil leak. I wasnt leaving without it. It runs and sprays well enough but it does leak oil. Im posting here because i bought it to use the side shaft engine on a bike. Theres a small hole where some manufacturing issue occured and it leaks oil while running at the bottom of the crankshaft seal. Im going to just stick something in the hole and leave it if it doesnt leak. Im thinking high temp rtv for starters. Thoughts?
 

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Functional Artist

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I'd let the RTV set for a few days, to let it cure completely ;)

Hope it lasts a while :thumbsup:
...but if it still leaks, maybe contact a small engine repair shop in your area & see what it would cost to "pop" out that seal & install a new one :2guns:
 

Mccartercar

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I'd let the RTV set for a few days, to let it cure completely ;)

Hope it lasts a while :thumbsup:
...but if it still leaks, maybe contact a small engine repair shop in your area & see what it would cost to "pop" out that seal & install a new one :2guns:
The seal is good. Theres a hole in the block itself. My bigger worry is stress leading to a crack from the crankshaft force. Oh well, it was nearly free.
 

Functional Artist

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Um...OK...the rubber "seal" completely encircles the shaft on most seals I've seen/worked with :thumbsup:
...in the pic (when enlarged) it looks like there is a "gap" in the rubber seal, to me anyways :huh:

If it "is" a "structural" part of the engine block, I'd say "no" on the RTV
...& instead try something stronger like JB Weld ;)

Just tryin' ta help :cheers2:
 

Mccartercar

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Um...OK...the rubber "seal" completely encircles the shaft on most seals I've seen/worked with :thumbsup:
...in the pic (when enlarged) it looks like there is a "gap" in the rubber seal, to me anyways :huh:

If it "is" a "structural" part of the engine block, I'd say "no" on the RTV
...& instead try something stronger like JB Weld ;)

Just tryin' ta help :cheers2:
I would try an aluminum epoxy material and a new seal first before silicone.
I got some jb, but i didnt think to make sure it was for aluminum. Ill update after it cures. Thank u
 

Mccartercar

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Um...OK...the rubber "seal" completely encircles the shaft on most seals I've seen/worked with :thumbsup:
...in the pic (when enlarged) it looks like there is a "gap" in the rubber seal, to me anyways :huh:

If it "is" a "structural" part of the engine block, I'd say "no" on the RTV
...& instead try something stronger like JB Weld ;)

Just tryin' ta help :cheers2:
I went with jb instead but as denny pointed out i may be redoing it with an aluminum epoxy. Thanks for the reply and all your help you give me.
 

Denny

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If the JB don’t work what I would do is.
Clean it really well.
Fill with aluminum epoxy just slightly proud of the hole.
Press in new seal while the aluminum epoxy is still wet.
Let it sit and dry for a week.
 

Mccartercar

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I got the high heat one. It didnt leak during a 10 minute run after it cured. The vibration of the pump may jar it loose if I continue using it as a pressure washer. Im happy either way. Thank you for all your help.
Here's a J-B Weld that specifically states it bonds aluminum..................
MarineWeld Twin Tube | J-B Weld (jbweld.com)
Here's a J-B Weld that states it works on engine blocks and is unaffected by that heat.................
HighHeat Epoxy Putty | J-B Weld (jbweld.com)
 
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