Denny
Canned Monster
What about the sprocket? What’s the spacing on that?
First Kart, Red Talon has some issues...
- Thread starter Haydes
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Haydes
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That spacing is 1/2"
Hellion
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Great thread. What's the go kart scene in Greece like?
THAT is the number I was looking for. It's a 120000 series engine and the first two digits denotes cubic inch displacement. So it is a 206 cc (12.48 cu. in.) engine. 0417 is some code for engine type but the latter 6 digits denote 2 digit year/2 digit month/2 digit day. December 9, 2004 should be the date it rolled off the assembly line. It may be between 5 and 7 horsepower depending upon setup/tuning/carburetor/etc.
Some info I found: https://www.diygokarts.com/community/threads/briggs-6hp-intek-questions.27496/
And a whole set of manuals for the Briggs & Stratton 120000-0417-E1 type: https://www.briggsandstratton.com/n...ualSearch.html?searchrequested=120202-0417-e1
Your kart is an older Carter Brothers kart probably either a model 2575SX or a model K2445:
https://www.bmikarts.com/PDF/Carter-Bros/Model 2575-3016/2575-3016.pdf
https://www.bmikarts.com/PDF/Carter-Bros/Model k2445/k2445.pdf
The above are just parts lists, not manuals, and there's probably not a complete listing of these documents on the internet for every kart they manufactured. You can do a web search for the part numbers in the lists and you will get results. For example "G433 Brake Pedal": https://www.gopowersports.com/vintage-go-kart-pedals/
THAT is the number I was looking for. It's a 120000 series engine and the first two digits denotes cubic inch displacement. So it is a 206 cc (12.48 cu. in.) engine. 0417 is some code for engine type but the latter 6 digits denote 2 digit year/2 digit month/2 digit day. December 9, 2004 should be the date it rolled off the assembly line. It may be between 5 and 7 horsepower depending upon setup/tuning/carburetor/etc.
Some info I found: https://www.diygokarts.com/community/threads/briggs-6hp-intek-questions.27496/
And a whole set of manuals for the Briggs & Stratton 120000-0417-E1 type: https://www.briggsandstratton.com/n...ualSearch.html?searchrequested=120202-0417-e1
Your kart is an older Carter Brothers kart probably either a model 2575SX or a model K2445:
https://www.bmikarts.com/PDF/Carter-Bros/Model 2575-3016/2575-3016.pdf
https://www.bmikarts.com/PDF/Carter-Bros/Model k2445/k2445.pdf
The above are just parts lists, not manuals, and there's probably not a complete listing of these documents on the internet for every kart they manufactured. You can do a web search for the part numbers in the lists and you will get results. For example "G433 Brake Pedal": https://www.gopowersports.com/vintage-go-kart-pedals/
Haydes
New member
Oh I'm not actually from Greece lol, I'm not that cool. I just really like Greek mythology, especially surrounding Hades, hence my username. It's pretty close to my real name so I spell it a little differently. Unfortunately, most people who read my username pronounce it like "Haydz".
I'm glad you could find so much about the engine! It seems like it's a decent little chugger. Not the best by any means but there certainly is worse out there. I think I want to be on the look out at yard sales and things like that for lawn mowers and snow blowers on the off chance the engine is better. I do remember reading somewhere though that I have to watch out and make sure the engine is "horizontal" not "vertical". I'm not sure how true that is, seems like it might be easy enough to just rotate the engine if the drive shaft was vertical. Again, I don't know. That could be incredibly wrong lol.
Hellion
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Oh yes, the engine orientation makes a big difference. "Horizontal" means horizontal-shaft just like the engine that's already on it. Vertical shaft engines are on all the lawnmower engines you see nowadays (unless it is a reel type mower).
Trust me, you don't want to try to modify a vertical shaft engine for go-kart use. It's not worth the trouble but it could be done if you love a challenge and are also a masochist. Are you a masochist, Haydes?
The Intek engine you do have is for all intents and purpose an industrial version of a Briggs 206 or Animal. Many parts will interchange but not all. Otherwise, I'd suggest the old DIYGK standby, the exalted Predator 212cc engine. Wait till it goes on sale for $99.99 (never pay full price!)
Haydes
New member
I've heard that the 212 is a classic kart engine! Is the performance difference between what I have and the 212 enough to pay even $100 for?
I am a masochist but not that much of a masochist. I'll stick to horizontal engines, lol.
panchothedog
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In there stock configuration, your 206 is probably close to the predator 212 (if it's running properly). Due to the immense popularity of the 212 there is a long list of aftermarket hop up parts available. It is not terribly difficult or expensive to almost double the horsepower. Just in case you're interested.
Hellion
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I didn't want to get into specifics because the info is all over the interwebz but there's beaucoup aftermarket hop up parts for the Rotaderp 212cc, especially the non-Hemi version. Relatively cheap parts (surely) compared to Briggs stuff, and that's what it has going for it. Performance of both engines, stock, are probably the same.
A brand new Briggs & Stratton OHV engine of comparable displacement and horsepower is easily 3x-4x+ a $99.99 Rotaderp.
Well I suppose it is. How many years must pass before an item becomes "classic"?
Karttekk
Well-known member
Here's another option for figuring out what chain you'll need.
Go Kart Chain | Masterlinks | Half Links | Tools
Go Kart Chain and Mini Bike Chain. High Quality Go Kart Chain, Mini Bike Chain, Masterlinks, Halflinks, Go Kart Chain Breaker Tools and Chain Tensioners. Standard Roller Chain for most brands. 35 Chain, 40 Chain, 41 Chain, 420 Chain and 50 Chain.
www.gokartsupply.com
Karttekk
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See if there are any markings on the chain, sometimes the size is stamped into one of the links.
Haydes
New member
This was a huge help! Based on this, I have a #41 chain.
Thepartsguy
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Don’t wanna derail the thread I made a twin engine out of a karter red talon gokart. Cut it all up and made it center seat. Fun karts 
Haydes
New member
That's awesome! I want to center my steering as well, but I also want to lift it up a little higher than it is right now.
Haydes
New member
UPDATE!!
I got the parts and it is now put back together and running!
I learned a few things while putting this back together. Firstly, that the center hub hole thing where the bearings go is kinda bored out. The new bearing on the inner side "fit" technically but it wasn't tight. It falls out if it's tipped. However, this doesn't seem to be that big of an issue because it's being held in place by the pressure from the big center nuts. The bearing on the outer side (which you can see from the picture) fits nice and snug.
Next thing I learned is that the new brake hub barely doesn't fit. The bolt holes just don't quite line up. I could technically take a drill and bore out those holes a little bit and it would fit. That just seems kinda sketch. As it stands right now, the old brake band and hub are back on there and work okay.
I put the new clutch on and she holds nice and still while idling so I don't have to mess with the idle speed. The clutch also fits nice and snug on the drive shaft so no spacer washers are needed. From the above picture, you can see that the chain is still hitting the side of the clutch. I don't imagine that's very good for the health of the clutch but also the chain looks like it's in line with the wheel sprocket.
I rode it around for a while yesterday and had a TON of fun! I freaking love this little thing! I did notice that more often than I would like I was hitting the ground pretty hard. I first thought it was just the sheet metal scraping but then I realized it was much worse. The drive wheel had almost no air and the sprocket diameter is pretty big, almost as big as the wheel itself. When the wheel is fully inflated, the chain/sprocket is only 2ish inches off the ground. I was bashing my chain into the ground each time I hit an uneven spot, oops. I filled up the tire and was back on my merry way!
I took the kart to my brother-in-laws house to show him and let him ride around in it. But the drive tire had been worn down A LOT from just me riding around during the day. While my BIL was riding, he tried to powerslide and blew the tire lol. I wasn't mad because I knew the tire was old.
This made me think though. I'm going to have to get a new tire but should I just get a bigger wheel so I don't have to worry about the chain/sprocket being so close to the ground? I know I'll have to match the size with at least the other back wheel. Also, won't bigger wheels technical bring my speed up a little bit? I don't know, I just know that riding this thing is so much fun and learning about the connected systems has been awesome!
I got the parts and it is now put back together and running!
I learned a few things while putting this back together. Firstly, that the center hub hole thing where the bearings go is kinda bored out. The new bearing on the inner side "fit" technically but it wasn't tight. It falls out if it's tipped. However, this doesn't seem to be that big of an issue because it's being held in place by the pressure from the big center nuts. The bearing on the outer side (which you can see from the picture) fits nice and snug.
Next thing I learned is that the new brake hub barely doesn't fit. The bolt holes just don't quite line up. I could technically take a drill and bore out those holes a little bit and it would fit. That just seems kinda sketch. As it stands right now, the old brake band and hub are back on there and work okay.
I put the new clutch on and she holds nice and still while idling so I don't have to mess with the idle speed. The clutch also fits nice and snug on the drive shaft so no spacer washers are needed. From the above picture, you can see that the chain is still hitting the side of the clutch. I don't imagine that's very good for the health of the clutch but also the chain looks like it's in line with the wheel sprocket.
I rode it around for a while yesterday and had a TON of fun! I freaking love this little thing! I did notice that more often than I would like I was hitting the ground pretty hard. I first thought it was just the sheet metal scraping but then I realized it was much worse. The drive wheel had almost no air and the sprocket diameter is pretty big, almost as big as the wheel itself. When the wheel is fully inflated, the chain/sprocket is only 2ish inches off the ground. I was bashing my chain into the ground each time I hit an uneven spot, oops. I filled up the tire and was back on my merry way!
I took the kart to my brother-in-laws house to show him and let him ride around in it. But the drive tire had been worn down A LOT from just me riding around during the day. While my BIL was riding, he tried to powerslide and blew the tire lol. I wasn't mad because I knew the tire was old.
This made me think though. I'm going to have to get a new tire but should I just get a bigger wheel so I don't have to worry about the chain/sprocket being so close to the ground? I know I'll have to match the size with at least the other back wheel. Also, won't bigger wheels technical bring my speed up a little bit? I don't know, I just know that riding this thing is so much fun and learning about the connected systems has been awesome!
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Hellion
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The old clutch may have been a victim of the Don't Do's in this guide: https://www.bmikarts.com/10-things-about-centrifugal-clutch
Keep the clutch bushing oiled with 1-2 drops of fresh motor oil is the big takeaway from the article, but it is not a really big issue if you avoid excessive idling and when you are riding, make sure you engage the clutch all the way (full throttle or mostly full throttle) so you're not riding in a state of constant clutch slippage. Those two things working together will roast the clutch from heat damage.
The drive wheel will wear out faster one a one-wheel-peel go kart but it's fun because you can really gas it and spin the tire, plus one-wheel-drive makes the kart a bit squirrelly under power and when moving. Plus you can turn sharper because the tires aren't joined by a solid axle.
Bigger tires can increase kart’s top speed, but only if the engine has enough power to overcome the increased rolling resistance. A larger tire diameter and circumference can allow the kart to cover more ground with each revolution, resulting in a higher top speed. However, this is only true if the kart’s gearing is optimized for the larger tires (you might have to change your tooth count).
For those old school karts with no suspension, I typically ride them in parking lots, streets (rebel riding!), packed dirt or lawns and pastures.
Keep the clutch bushing oiled with 1-2 drops of fresh motor oil is the big takeaway from the article, but it is not a really big issue if you avoid excessive idling and when you are riding, make sure you engage the clutch all the way (full throttle or mostly full throttle) so you're not riding in a state of constant clutch slippage. Those two things working together will roast the clutch from heat damage.
The drive wheel will wear out faster one a one-wheel-peel go kart but it's fun because you can really gas it and spin the tire, plus one-wheel-drive makes the kart a bit squirrelly under power and when moving. Plus you can turn sharper because the tires aren't joined by a solid axle.
Bigger tires can increase kart’s top speed, but only if the engine has enough power to overcome the increased rolling resistance. A larger tire diameter and circumference can allow the kart to cover more ground with each revolution, resulting in a higher top speed. However, this is only true if the kart’s gearing is optimized for the larger tires (you might have to change your tooth count).
For those old school karts with no suspension, I typically ride them in parking lots, streets (rebel riding!), packed dirt or lawns and pastures.
Haydes
New member
I'll keep this in mind and make sure it's oiled!
Is there a graph or diagram or something to show what those limits are? I would imagine it depends on the cc. I wonder what the recommended or maximum size is for my 206cc.
That's what I've done so far except for dirt and lawn lol. I kind of assumed it wouldn't do well in grass, I'll have to try it though! I've found that elementary school playgrounds are super fun to ride around in! (after hours of course, don't wanna put any kinds in danger). There's a few elementaries near my house and there were tons of kids riding bikes and escooters. Some of them tried to race me lol.
Karttekk
Well-known member
"Firstly, that the center hub hole thing where the bearings go is kinda bored out. The new bearing on the inner side "fit" technically but it wasn't tight. It falls out if it's tipped. However, this doesn't seem to be that big of an issue because it's being held in place by the pressure from the big center nuts. The bearing on the outer side (which you can see from the picture) fits nice and snug."
I've used this to mount or set bearings that don't fit as they should due to wear & tear. Always worked good for me. I think it states heat may be needed to remove a set bearing if it needs replaced. Keep that in mind.
I've used this to mount or set bearings that don't fit as they should due to wear & tear. Always worked good for me. I think it states heat may be needed to remove a set bearing if it needs replaced. Keep that in mind.
Master Hack
Well-known member
Thats not an uncommon problem. Red loctite works well also, but requires heat to release. Loctite has another one for bearings #8xx , cant remember now. Its on their site. Make sure the parts are clean or it won't work.
ezcome-ezgo
G'me sumthin to write on
Not sure if you've said, but if you are using #40 chain, you could swap to #41 or 420, they have a narrower roller width.
Hellion
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Any chain misalignment will rub the clutch or a tire depending on the angle of (mis)alignment, but a narrower chain like ezcome-ezgo suggested 
would be a solution.
I noticed your chain was a bit kinky (see the green circles) in the photo from your post #34. It's rusty too and some would say replace it, but go ahead and take it off and work those kinked links free. Use pliers or brute hand force and some penetrating fluid like WD-40 or PB Blaster, etc. You might even mechanically remove the rust from the chain with one of those wire toothbrushes. After it is clean and totally flexible again, lubricate it with something heavier like motorcycle/bicycle chain lube, motor oil or something. It's a constant battle to keep it lubed because the chain is exposed to the elements...
Go Kart Speed Calculator.
https://www.gokartguide.com/gear-ratio-chart-speed-calculator/ <--- nice calculator, has sliders that let you try different ratios without typing in the info. Other info is there too.
https://www.diygokarts.com/speed-calculator.html
https://www.gokartsupply.com/ratios.htm
Most of these charts use a 3600 RPM baseline for the engine because that is the industry standard RPM for these engines, but the governor can be adjusted for a higher RPM or removed entirely. Read this thread for some great info:
https://www.diygokarts.com/community/threads/governors-flywheels-and-an-internet-full-of-crap.49379/
would be a solution.I noticed your chain was a bit kinky (see the green circles) in the photo from your post #34. It's rusty too and some would say replace it, but go ahead and take it off and work those kinked links free. Use pliers or brute hand force and some penetrating fluid like WD-40 or PB Blaster, etc. You might even mechanically remove the rust from the chain with one of those wire toothbrushes. After it is clean and totally flexible again, lubricate it with something heavier like motorcycle/bicycle chain lube, motor oil or something. It's a constant battle to keep it lubed because the chain is exposed to the elements...
Go Kart Speed Calculator.
https://www.gokartguide.com/gear-ratio-chart-speed-calculator/ <--- nice calculator, has sliders that let you try different ratios without typing in the info. Other info is there too.
https://www.diygokarts.com/speed-calculator.html
https://www.gokartsupply.com/ratios.htm
Most of these charts use a 3600 RPM baseline for the engine because that is the industry standard RPM for these engines, but the governor can be adjusted for a higher RPM or removed entirely. Read this thread for some great info:
https://www.diygokarts.com/community/threads/governors-flywheels-and-an-internet-full-of-crap.49379/