I can't even seem to get my bench top cleaned up. I'll provide all the measurements anyone wants. All in all, the spider kart plans were a great start for a guy like me, but I definitely have recommended changes.
First build, Grand Daddy
- Thread starter MTScott
- Start date
I can't even seem to get my bench top cleaned up. I'll provide all the measurements anyone wants. All in all, the spider kart plans were a great start for a guy like me, but I definitely have recommended changes.
Mvp6905
New member
Hey Scott, I am still here lurking in the shadows. Still looking at this thread for information haha. I let the project sit due to other things going on, along with the fact I might of bit off more than I could chew haha and just trying to keep my chinese ATV running. Just thought I'd share my current sad state of affairs. I totally didn't think it would cost that much to build a go kart I have some parts (not in pic) and the cost is already around $750 to date.
Truly wish I would have built it out on paper first I am still missing major components. I come back to this thread for inspiration looks like you have done a great job! I've decided to build out the suspension block first then work my way back. Gotta source a steering rack. My mind keeps telling me it would have been cheaper to buy (go kart) one but my heart says its all about the experience. Anyway feel free to share any other insight you have about your build I am reading and hopefully learning.
Attachments
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Gokart.jpg
Molloy
New member
Hey if you don't mind, what front shocks are you running? I'm using the catastrophically cheap/weak 9-3/4" shocks spec'd out in the Granddaddy design. I gotta do something...
I'm running some Chinese el cheapos off Amazon, marketed as motorcycle shocks. They come in 320mm, 360mm, etc. I think my front ones are 320. They are also weak, but look cool. Again, part of the problem is the design. The narrowing of the A-arms creates a restriction on how far out you can mount the shock. It's about 40% of the length in, which puts an incredible amount of leverage from the wheel to the shock, or at least that's my theory. This is another reason I plan to redesign the a-arms.
This is going to sound like some office bullshit bingo stuff, but here it is: The only way to eat the elephant is one bite at a time.
It'll cost more than you think. Every car, engine, every motorcycle project, every hunting trip... They all cost more than I planned, how else would I talk myself into it??? Just move forward, build your next bit and just buy the parts you need at that time to keep moving. You'll be in 2k prob (at least), but 2k over 3 years isn't a lot of money. It'll be better than the Chinese karts, and you'll have way more pride in it. Any dick can go by a cheap kart - be the guy that builds it. It isn't about the money.
BaconBitRacing
Well-known member
Great advice MTScott 
One thing, and I hate to be this guy, but watch your language. This is a forum for adults, teens, and kids, not to mention for viewing without being a member. This is one of the last places where you don’t hear that, let’s keep it that way.
One thing, and I hate to be this guy, but watch your language. This is a forum for adults, teens, and kids, not to mention for viewing without being a member. This is one of the last places where you don’t hear that, let’s keep it that way.
Another check in folks. I ended up replacing the snapped solid aluminum axle with a 46" 0.25 wall chromoly unit (the aluminum was 45")... it is nicer, but on our first test ride out I already bent it. I tried to climb a steep trail I had no business climbing (30*, at least), and at the worst possible time, I pressed on the brakes, and "pfffssssh", the nylon line sprung a leak right at the fitting where it was stressed the most. I lost all brake pressure while stalled out half way up the hill. I had to do quick thinking as I rolled backwards and turn into into the bank, which did flip me. It seems I hit the bank hard enough to bend this new axle... oh so slightly. Fortunately I made my boy wait at the top while I attempted this... he might have made it as he's 150 lbs lighter than me, and might not have had the leg strength to bust the line, but I'm so glad he wasn't in the kart.
No matter how you slice it, it might have been a stupid move. I'm lucky I have no broken bones. If I were thinking quicker, I'd have just hit the gas to slow down rolling backwards, but apparently I'm not a quick enough thinker. It might have also been enough to wheel me over backwards, who knows.
More hard lessons learned:
1. I hate the air brake nylon lines. They might be okay for light track karts, but they are BS for anything else if you ask me. I bent steel lines everywhere, and used the nylon only where it needed to be flexible. I'll be installing braided brake lines everywhere it needs flexibility and eliminating nylon lines.
2. The reason this stalled is because the torque converter sheeve does not retract to gear down under load so it bogs severally as you slow down... even on gentle hills this is a problem. Maybe this is just a limitation of this kind of clutch, but I really hope a higher quality unit will operate better. I'll probably start a new thread on TCs, and ask questions about upgrade options from the cheap chinese 40 series. I want to go to a 44, but they are unobtainium right now for a 1" engine output.
3. Another critical design flaw in the grand daddy design is the width of the rear subframe. I may try to widen this one, or build a new one from scratch to be the same width as the rear corners of the main kart frame. There is 9" of distance from the bearings to the hub, which might be fine with lighter loads, but with the weight of the bigger motor, additional steel for frame mods, and the fact that adults will want to hop in this (don't kid yourself, it'll happen), I think you want to get those as close to the wheel hubs as possible. Outriggers could be built for the bearings too, but the extra width and room in the subframe will be nice for mounting the transmission, jackshaft, brakes, alternator, etc...
4. The roll cage did save me. Were it not for some cross bracing I added it would have bent for certain and the whole thing would be garbage now, but the frame does not appear to have tweaked at all, so, I may actually add more cross bracing or at least some gussets.
5. I had plans for handbrake that would operate a mechanical caliper for a backup/parking brake. The lever is installed but I didn't get around to adding the caliper. This would also have helped, and will be a high priority now.
6. Go karts like this are not meant for riding up logging skid roads in the mountains. Maybe if I had the 670 (hmmmm....)
One day... ONE day, I do plan to start a thread and/or videos to outline all the changes I think the GD plans should incorporate, so others don't have to rebuild their kart multiple times like I am.
No matter how you slice it, it might have been a stupid move. I'm lucky I have no broken bones. If I were thinking quicker, I'd have just hit the gas to slow down rolling backwards, but apparently I'm not a quick enough thinker. It might have also been enough to wheel me over backwards, who knows.
More hard lessons learned:
1. I hate the air brake nylon lines. They might be okay for light track karts, but they are BS for anything else if you ask me. I bent steel lines everywhere, and used the nylon only where it needed to be flexible. I'll be installing braided brake lines everywhere it needs flexibility and eliminating nylon lines.
2. The reason this stalled is because the torque converter sheeve does not retract to gear down under load so it bogs severally as you slow down... even on gentle hills this is a problem. Maybe this is just a limitation of this kind of clutch, but I really hope a higher quality unit will operate better. I'll probably start a new thread on TCs, and ask questions about upgrade options from the cheap chinese 40 series. I want to go to a 44, but they are unobtainium right now for a 1" engine output.
3. Another critical design flaw in the grand daddy design is the width of the rear subframe. I may try to widen this one, or build a new one from scratch to be the same width as the rear corners of the main kart frame. There is 9" of distance from the bearings to the hub, which might be fine with lighter loads, but with the weight of the bigger motor, additional steel for frame mods, and the fact that adults will want to hop in this (don't kid yourself, it'll happen), I think you want to get those as close to the wheel hubs as possible. Outriggers could be built for the bearings too, but the extra width and room in the subframe will be nice for mounting the transmission, jackshaft, brakes, alternator, etc...
4. The roll cage did save me. Were it not for some cross bracing I added it would have bent for certain and the whole thing would be garbage now, but the frame does not appear to have tweaked at all, so, I may actually add more cross bracing or at least some gussets.
5. I had plans for handbrake that would operate a mechanical caliper for a backup/parking brake. The lever is installed but I didn't get around to adding the caliper. This would also have helped, and will be a high priority now.
6. Go karts like this are not meant for riding up logging skid roads in the mountains. Maybe if I had the 670 (hmmmm....)
One day... ONE day, I do plan to start a thread and/or videos to outline all the changes I think the GD plans should incorporate, so others don't have to rebuild their kart multiple times like I am.
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Denny
Canned Monster
Down shifting quickly is one of the limitations of the CVT. It doesn’t want to. It likes to do it over a distance.
Something I've come to accept, the CVT isn't meant for all uses. It can't gear down for a hill climb, because, well... it doesn't have gears. The engine RPM controls the primary, and the wheel RPM controls the secondary. You're stuck with what you got.
I've gotten more than one request for details and suggestions on this build... all I can do is tell you my experience, but I have a learned a few things so I'll try to outline them here as I work on it more. I'm no expert - you're watching me learn.
This project is going into phase two. Hopefully soon I'll go over frame changes (mostly changes I made from the plans), drastic steering mods, suspension updates, A-arm mods, etc... We've also bought a second backup motor, as the current one has some blow-by issues. It is going on the bench for a performance build while the new one keeps the kart moving for the kids. Videos are the easiest way to relay the most information so I may do more those, and post here as I do.
Hope you all are having fun on your projects.
I've gotten more than one request for details and suggestions on this build... all I can do is tell you my experience, but I have a learned a few things so I'll try to outline them here as I work on it more. I'm no expert - you're watching me learn.
This project is going into phase two. Hopefully soon I'll go over frame changes (mostly changes I made from the plans), drastic steering mods, suspension updates, A-arm mods, etc... We've also bought a second backup motor, as the current one has some blow-by issues. It is going on the bench for a performance build while the new one keeps the kart moving for the kids. Videos are the easiest way to relay the most information so I may do more those, and post here as I do.
Hope you all are having fun on your projects.