Euphoric monster! Yay

[SquidBonez]

60 is really good, especially if you have good take-off on what I'm assuming are 11"(?) tires. I have a Stage 1 Predator 212 on a Manco Dingo (governor still in but adjusted to kick in at a higher RPM). I get about 40 mph on 18" tires, 6:1 gear ratio. I would dump more money in it to go faster but at that point I'd want suspension.

Does the PVL flywheel allow you to keep electric start? If so that might be better than the billet flywheel. Cheaper, tested to 17,000 RPM and you get to keep electric start/lights.

 

[Solomonster212]

Another thing to note... the engine weighs about the same as the frame. Being aluminum with a fiberglass seat, you can pick it up with one arm with not engine.

---------- Post added at 05:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:00 PM ----------

The rear tires are 12 inch, front are 10.5. My 212 doesn't have electric start...

---------- Post added at 05:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:01 PM ----------

I thought the Predator 212's didn't come with electric start. Hemi or not.

 

[SquidBonez]

You are correct. I must've been thinking about the Tillotson which does have optional e-start.

 

[Solomonster212]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EqmYPQCfD68

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tzGCWt5_SkQ

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Xni6EuvYlF8

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NU5Rr_QYi5Q

---------- Post added at 05:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:06 PM ----------

That's just a few videos I made of my Predator build. Nothing really detailed, I really just made them for fun when I was learning how to use my GoPro

 

[Joe-405]

You need to strap the helmet. Before you can’t see anything and it will become a useful item on your lid.

 

[Solomonster212]

Well I bought a small but I need a medium. Oops.

---------- Post added at 12:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:49 PM ----------

I compression tested the Predator. It makes 92 psi. Much better than the 80 it made stock.

 

[Solomonster212]

Just a few more up to date pictures. I really need to get that ugly paint off. Not sure what gave the guy to use cheap paint on aluminum...

 

[Solomonster212]

The kart was sold early this year. But I just wanted to add this final picture. I did paint the kart. Also added a kill switch to the steering wheel, as well as installing the new tires and some final touches to the engine. The guy I sold it to was very happy. He was scared to drive it at first so I took it up and down his street just to show him what it could do. I do miss the kart very very much. I'll have to get another one in the future. This man is very blessed to have purchased such a fine piece of machinery that I loved and cared for....




Well, that's actually not the picture I was looking for, but a good one anyway. A picture of the fresh paint is on my Instagram, as well as the for sale pictures.

 

[madprofessor]

Anybody have an opinion on the radical tilt of a splash-lube motor like pictured above? Either forward like above or backward? I know I'm a worrywart, but that would concern me for physics reasons.

 

[karl]

7 and 15 degree mounts are typical on race karts. The oil slinger travels from front to back, so the forward
lean makes sure the slinger has plenty of oil to throw around, and id assume it helps drain the splashed oil
back down. The same oil capacity is used.

Now tilting it backwards might starve the engine of oil.

 

[madprofessor]

7 and 15 degree mounts are typical on race karts.

Learning as I go here. I recall the attitude of the ARC rods when I've replaced them, where the little "spoon" I call it dips down and grabs some oil to sling upward. That part makes sense to me, but I'm not getting a good feeling about how the different angle of the oil level would be affected by the simple splash of a smooth factory rod.
How about this...............The Predator engines have 2 dipsticks, fore and aft of the block. With a forward tilt of the block, I think I'd want to get oil up to the full mark of the aft dipstick, and ignore how high that would make it on the fore dipstick.

 

[karl]

Learning as I go here. I recall the attitude of the ARC rods when I've replaced them, where the little "spoon" I call it dips down and grabs some oil to sling upward. That part makes sense to me, but I'm not getting a good feeling about how the different angle of the oil level would be affected by the simple splash of a smooth factory rod.
How about this...............The Predator engines have 2 dipsticks, fore and aft of the block. With a forward tilt of the block, I think I'd want to get oil up to the full mark of the aft dipstick, and ignore how high that would make it on the fore dipstick.

Adding oil that way would overfill the engine and put the level too close to the crankshaft.

The crankshaft stays in relatively the same place, but the aft fill level is moved closer to the crank when leaned foward.
That's why the standard 16oz oil capacity is still used. Just lift the front end of the kart until the engine is level, and fill like normal.

I don't really see the issue with the standard or billet rod being used. On a splash lube engine with a tube dipstick up top,
start it up without the dipstick in place. You'd be suprised how much oil they throw. Don't ya got a preformance buddy on speeddial?
Id like to hear what they say.

 

[madprofessor]

Folks have expressed a distaste in the past for my performance guy's preference for high-zinc oil products. I asked Jerry about the fact that I continue to use Royal Purple Break-in Oil after the first and other oil changes, and he says it cannot possibly hurt. He only cautioned me against breakdown of any oils from letting a motor badly overheat, that the most important factor is the continued viscosity level.