You always want consistant chain tension. Ideally, you want the swingarm pivots exactly lined up with the engine (or jackshaft) sprocket. If you can accomplish this, your chain tension will not change thru the suspension cycle, no tensioner required. If this is not possible for you, rig a spring-loaded chain tensioner, ideally with an idler sprocket, or secondly with a wheel or slider. When you setup the chain, measure the distances between the sprockets throughout the entire suspension cycle. Size your chain so it will be very slightly slack at whatever point the sprockets are furthest apart. Then add the tensioner assembly, locating it on the slack side (generally the bottom) of the chain. Once set up, cycle the suspension to ensure that at no point is the chain either too tight or too loose, and the tensioner is capable of doing it's job.
If your drive sprocket is WAY out-of line with the suspension pivot, you may have a problem with the chain having to slack to the point of the two chain runs hitting each other. If this occurs, your best bet is to alter your design, placing the drive sprocket closer to being in line with the suspension pivot.
Cheers!