Engine cuts out over bumpy terrain...

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shaneasmithjw

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I hope that I am posting this question in the right place.

I have a Yerf Dog 3203 that a friend gave to our family. It has a Tecumseh 6.5 hp OHH65 engine.

It ran pretty well except when you hit bumpy terrain...then it would briefly stall and then catch and fire back up fine. It was disappointing but still fun to ride.

Then my nephew rolled the kart and it took awhile to repair all of the "minor" damage (axle slid over about .5 inch to 1 inch so that the rear tire rubbed the frame and the gears for the chain were misaligned - that has been fixed).

Now, whenever you hit bumpy terrain, it is definitely running much, much worse - it stalls really bad and sometimes completely dies...if you play with the throttle a bit, it will sometimes continue to run. A lot of times, it will just die.

It starts fine, idles fine, and takes off fine...over flat, non-bumpy terrain, it runs pretty good...sometimes it will stall very briefly at WOT but runs pretty strong for the most part...you notice a real problem when you hit any portion of the property that is the least bit bumpy and the problem is almost immediate.

These are the things that I have done to try and fix the issue:

1) The rear clip of the gas tank broke so the gas tank would flop around a bit...I used a zip tie to tighten that down so it no longer flops around.

2) Replaced spark plug - not because I thought it was the problem but because it really needed replacement.

3) Replaced what I thought was a fuel line running from the carb to what I now believe is the pulse fitting on the OHV? I replaced it because there was a lot of dust buildup around the carb near that line and while it was still connected, it slid off and on very easily...just assumed it might be creating a vacuum issue of some sort.

4) When I replaced the part in Item #3 above, I managed to kink the actual fuel line from the gas tank...or maybe it was always kinked...I don't know...the kinked part of the line was cut off and there are no more kinks but it seems to be a very flimsy fuel line. I was considering replacing this with a sturdier fuel line...is it possible that this might be contributing to the problem?

After Steps 3 and 4, it starts much, much easier now but still cuts out over bumpy terrain.

A friend of mine thinks that it might be the float in the carburetor - is that something that might have been damaged worse due to a rollover?

As you can tell, I'm a total newbie when it comes to engines of any kind (see Item #3 above for the evidence).

Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 

shaneasmithjw

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I just checked the engine and could not locate a low oil sensor anywhere...just to make certain that I had not overlooked it I also looked up the engine (Tecumseh OHH65 - 71712D) on PartsTree.com and could not locate any part that was labeled as being a low oil sensor.
 

Nodroz

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Just to clarify: you can not see the low oil filter from the outside. It's internally, in the crankcase. You will only be able to see a little cable coming out from the crankcase.

Anyhow, I don't think the Tecumseh engine has this feature. This might be something else. Hhm.
 

spyder1968

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had this same problem on a larger kart. turned out to be the float bouncing around so bad that it kept stopping the fuel flow just enough to give the engine an intermittent bog. after a few attempts at remedying the problem i ended up switching to a carb without a float! in hindsight though, i could have tried installing a fuel pump first! don't know for sure if it would have cured the problem, but it definitely would have been WAY cheaper!!
 

Nodroz

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had this same problem on a larger kart. turned out to be the float bouncing around so bad that it kept stopping the fuel flow just enough to give the engine an intermittent bog. after a few attempts at remedying the problem i ended up switching to a carb without a float! in hindsight though, i could have tried installing a fuel pump first! don't know for sure if it would have cured the problem, but it definitely would have been WAY cheaper!!

Hmm, I've never heard this before. Nice it came out nice for you.
Does the engine run good without the float?
 

r_chez_08

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Called a diaphragm carb.
I would consider this a necessity...especially when off-roading.

My honda clone has just a 'float' style carb. The kart has been used on bumpy and steep terrain reguarly, and only shut out once- when the kart was rolled.
However, a diaphram carb may perform better.
 

slideways

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The issue you are having is that the carb bowl is on wrong. If you take it off you will see that there is a step in the bowl. The step is there to create a deeper area for the float to drop down into. If you don't have it clocked right the float is too shallow and will now allow enough reserve fuel to be available.
 

shaneasmithjw

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Thank you for the replies - sorry about not responding sooner...was a very busy weekend...did not have time to work on or even look at the kart.

I have been talking with other kart "experts" at work and a couple of friends of mine...the consensus seems to be centered around the float on the carb...I will take it apart by the end of the week and see if I can repair the float to determine whether or not that is the source of the problem. I'm all for fixing what's there but don't have much money to put into this engine...it's an engine that is supposed to only last 150 hours and I got the kart used...if I have to sink money into it, I will replace it with a clone engine from Harbor Freight instead. But, hopefully, working on the float on the carb will resolve the problem.
 

Doc Sprocket

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...it's an engine that is supposed to only last 150 hours and I got the kart used...

Where did you get that impression? The EPA label? All that indicates is the anticipated number of service hours in which the engine will continue to meet emissions standards. You can certainly expect longer service than that. With due care and maintenance, lots more life.

if I have to sink money into it, I will replace it with a clone engine from Harbor Freight instead.

The Tec OHH may not be my favourite series of industrial engine, but IMO better than a Harbor Fright offering. Champion for the cause- repair, not replace.
 

spyder1968

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for those interested..... russ2251 is correct. a tillotson carb is a diaphragm type carb. there is no float bowl or float. it makes a very noticeable difference in power too! the disadvantages though are the price,(need a different intake manifold, air filter adapter, linkage bracket etc) and the lack of a choke. some people say they are difficult to tune, but it was actually quite easy if you can forget the "old school" type ways of carb tuning. LOL !
 

augidog

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before i even read any of the posts (yes, i read them all) i was thinking "float level" and if it gets progressively worse you could be dealing with a leaking float.

i betcha if you rebuild and re-adjust the float level (by bending the tangs just so) you'll be good to go. i recommend the rebuild (which with a float-style carb really only amounts to a good cleaning) because float level can be affected by debris in strategic places.

i've often wondered why engine makers insisted on staying with the float carby even after the advent of the diaphragm carburetor. imo, the minor engineering changes necessary would almost immediately pay for themselves.

worth mentioning is that a choke plate can be added to (on top of) a diaphragm carburetor that doesn't have an integrated choke.
 
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